Childhood Car Game

Many, many years ago, I took a trip back east with my parents. The three of us, along with my great-aunt Betty spent several days in the car, driving around to historical spots. Aunt Betty taught me a game to play in the car to make the time pass. You counted the cows that you saw out of the window on your side of the car. But the minute a cemetary came into view (on your side), you "lost all of your cows" and needed to start over.

I've been thinking about that game as I've ridden past lots of examples in both categories.

Day 38 - July 29th - Napoleon to Sandusky

(photos: ferry schedule; aquatic option; entrance to Public Library in downtown Sandusky)

I was assigned to breakfast crew (along with Chad and Catie), so was up a bit earlier than usual. We worked with Sharon to set out cereal, coffee, juice, and cut up some delicious melon. In spite of extra morning tasks, I was able to leave camp with Rosie before 7. A 90 mile day was ahead.

The route was generally quite flat with some gentle rollers.

While riding down Main Street in Bowling Green, we saw Chuck motion to us from the sidewalk. He was just leaving a coffee shop! Rosie and I were more than happy to pull over, and check it out. Having a hot, tall latte in a thick glass mug can really set you up well for the balance of the day. I also ordered a chocolate chip scone - which was more like a cookie. No matter. Needed calories.

Rode on through Portage, Ballville and Fremont. Mile upon mile of corn, farm houses and out buildings, rows of soybeans. Pulled over at the lunch stop (mile 50) - a table set up adjacent to a vacant field. Mark shared with me a mention in USA Today about some recent layoffs at Starbucks. I phoned a team member to check on my status - got confirmation that my position was not affected. Whew. Change channels. Back to The Ride.

Construction work necessitated a detour - one the took us under the Turnpike in one direction, under it again on another road and back again. It was becoming a regular feature. And the wind had picked up a bit. Sometimes in our favor. But as soon as we had to take a right hand turn, it was coming at us from the side. Another turn and it was a relentless headwind. You reached the point of not caring how you were going to reach Sandusky - just wanting the wind in your favor.

Finally reconnected with the original route outside of Castalia - just a few miles from Sandusky. Rosie and I stopped at a gas station - I ate my pb&j and she bought a coke. A common routine for us around 2pm. No longer running on vapors, we were ready for the final section.

Rode into Sandusky - and found the KOA campground near the Lake. Set up my tent, and then...both of us headed into town to find the library. I also wanted to see the Lake and check out ferry options to Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island) where my dad used to vacation as a child. Rosie went into the library and I went down to the waterfront. It was after 4 by then, and I just didn't feel that there was time enough to take the 5pm ferry and get back by 7 or so, and then ride back to camp. Took some photos and joined Rosie at the library. After using up our alloted hour at the computers (cost of $1), we meandered back towards camp. Stopped at Jack's Deli out on Highway 6, for pizza and beer. Then returned to the Big Ride tent village for the night.

Trains

There is a train track less than a block away from one of the borders of this KOA campground. Trains must have rolled down that line every 20 minutes or so during the night. How can campers possibly find this restful (unless they have a train running through their backyard at home)? It is still hard for me to ignore the rumbling, the whistles, the clanging. When I mentioned my challenges with being so close to trains, Darrell quietly shared some wisdom: when your route parallels the tracks, you can be assured that it will be on a very gentle grade. A small concession to the iron goat of sleep deprivation.

Day 37 - July 29th - Kendallville IN to Napoleon OH

(photos: early morning barn view; state line - as good as it gets on a county road system; afternoon barn; court house in downtown Napoleon)

Members of the Kendallville Parks and Rec dept prepared breakfast for us at a pavilion in the campground. Pancakes were on the griddle at 6. Juice, coffee, eggs and bacon were also on the menu. Nice to have a change from our standard morning camp fare. It took awhile for everyone to show up as some watches and alarms hadn't been adjusted for the hour time change that bopped us on the head at the end of the ride yesterday.

I left camp a bit before 7. Nice rollers in the early morning air. A bit of fog for the first 20 miles - but more picturesque than concealing. Stopped in Butler for some oatmeal and coffee at a local cafe. I was halfway through my bowl when a clutch of other Riders showed up, doubling the occupancy of the place within minutes. About 5 miles outside of town, I encounted a very low-profile state-line indicator. No big Welcome To or Sorry You're Leaving signs out here on County Road 28.

In the next town of Bryan (mile 40),. I ran into Tracy and Rosie. They were snacking in the sun at the local Walgreen's. Cliff rode up within a few minutes. He mentioned word of a coffee shop that was a few blocks away - but he wanted to move on to the upcoming noted check point. However, the three of us, when hearing "coffee", had to go down the alley to investigate. A fine place it was - complete with religious undertones (poster and pamphlets). No matter. I ordered a tasty grilled sandwich and a V-8 for lunch. Rosie and Tracy went straight to the coffee. We had a great time there, and were even approached by a local retired teacher who gave us a donation to ALA after hearing about our intentions. When we re-emerged into the bright noon-day sun, we were immediately reminded of what non air-conditioned air feels like. It was hot! Putting-your-hand-in-the-clothes-dryer-at-the-end-of-the-Cottons-and-Heavy-Towels-cycle hot.

Rode on to the lunch stop check point. Not too compelled to make a sandwich - just wanted to keep going. The three of us continued over mostly flat rural roads. Arrived in Napoleon early afternoon. On our way through town, we passed a noted soft-serve ice cream establishment. Several Riders were already seated at the outdoor tables enjoying a treat. We joined them in the shade. I was getting antsy to get into camp so finished my orange slush and took off before the others. The final route segment followed the Maumee river and deposited me right at the Henry County Fairgrounds. It was still quite hot out, so I set up my tent to dry out. Grabbed my journal and rode into town to search for the local library. Found it - just within a few blocks of the eye-catching courthouse building. I asked a librarian where I might find some postcards of the area. She did some brainstorming, and then posed the question to some of her associates. Within a few minutes, calls were being made to various shops around town, the Wal-Mart, and the Chamber of Commerce. The Chamber apparently had a few in stock and would stay open a few minutes past closing if needed. I thanked the search team and rode over to the CofC. Bought a few cards from the sole person in the office - a bit terse, who gave no indication of receiving the call. Rode back to camp in time for dinner. Our facilities for the evening included use of an large open-ended building. It was nice to have a enclosed eating area - however, we had company. Not many mosquitoes here - but the flies made up for them in spades. For dinner, Sharon and others grilled skewers of vegetables and some chicken. The cooler had a large bottle of white wine - a refreshing libation at the end of a hot day. The night air was heavy and just a few points cooler than during the day. Made for a restless, damp night of fitful sleep.

Day 36 - July 28th - Valparaiso to Kendalville

(photos: find Stephanie among the sunflowers; Loretta and her helpers; Regina and her Snickerdoodle cookies)

Breakfast was served at the dining hall starting at 6. It was a challenge for everyone to get there, and to pack the truck after a rest day. Didn't leave campus until 7:30. It was warm (mid 70's by 8:30), a bit hazy and humid. The day's route was mostly flat with gentle rollers in some sections. Rural settings, interspersed with small towns along highways 2 and 3. Rode with Rosie most of the day. The stated distance was long (110 miles) and I just decided to make a full day of it. Our destination was a campground in a small town - so no big rush. Better to enjoy the sights along the way.
In Lakeville (mile 47), I noticed a couple of outside of a small coffee shop to the right of a busy intersection. Saw Seattle's Best Coffee signs in the window. Bob and Kathleen had stopped and were enjoying ice cream (just 3 scoops for Bob) and a coffee drink (Kathleen). I went in, surveyed the options and ordered an espresso shake. What a great treat! The proprietress insisted that it be topped with whipped cream and drizzles of syrups. Well, if it would make YOU happy...
Rosie ordered a cold blended coffee drink - again, capped with calories. Quality refueling.
Stopped around mile 50 to make a sandwich at Mark's table - set up in a vacant lot. Didn't end up eating the pb&J until I reached camp. Too many other treats were coming up...

Around mile 61, we noticed an increased presence of Mennonite and Amish households/farms. Buggies on the road (or in driveways), work horses in small pastures, and orderly lines of simple clothing, flapping in the breeze on the clotheslines. We spied a small sign on the side of the road - Big Rider stop. Up ahead, Loretta Miller (a local Mennonite woman) along with 2 younger family members, had set up a table with homemade cookies, cold water, and ice cold milk. She was ready for us. All she asked in return was that we provide her with our names and addresses so that she could send us each a letter. "And you need to send me one back. That's all. Just one.". Gladly, just please pour me another cup of that cold milk.
Farther down the road, we noticed a sign - Spike's Woodworking. Rosie stopped to take a photo as she knows someone with that name. As soon as we pulled over, we noticed a little girl emerge for the house on the property, look at us, and run back inside. Shy one she was. But she quickly returned, running out to us with fresh snickerdoodle cookies in her hands - cookies that she had just made herself! We gratefully accepted them and asked if we could take her picture. Yes, that would be ok. Within a few minutes, Regina's entire family (2 sisters, a brother and her parents) had come out to the roadside to learn about our ride and to tell us a bit about themselves. We had a great time talking with them - and Doug and Patti rode up to see what was going on. A regular party!

Finally rolled into camp around 5 - but it was actually 6, as we had moved into another time zone.
Dinner was being prepared for us at a campsite pavilion by members of the Kendalville Park and Rec Dept. I quickly set up my tent, and went to eat dinner. Then took a shower and had a bit of leisure time in camp before it was time to crawl into the sack. A long day, but very enjoyable.

Day 35 - July 27th - layover day in Valparaiso, IN

My but it was nice to get up leisurely. Went to breakfast at the Broadway Cafe (adjacent to campus) with Cliff, Bruce, Barb, Diana, and Darrell. A place similar to the original Rose's in Portland. Family restaurant, open 363 days a year, extensive menu, large portions. After breakfast, I walked to Walgreen's to pick up some more laundry soap, look for postcards (only found ones with photo of a rabbit with caption "Some Bunny in Valparaiso Loves You" - I passed), and a few lunch items (cheese sticks, V8 and crackers). Walked back to the dorm to doze and listen to music. After lunch, went to the Valpo U library. Beautiful building and wonderful facilities. Spent 3 1/2 hours reviewing photos and adding new posts. Finally emerged around 5:30 and went back to the dorm to clean off my bike. Dinner at the Broadway around 7. Clearly not much exploring on this rest day. My efforts to locate a pool had been futile. My left quad had been quite sore during the past few days. So it was probably best that I just stay within a tight radius.
Made a few phone calls today. It was enjoyable to hear familiar voices and get caught up on family and friend news.

Day 34 - July 26th - Coal City IL to Valparaiso IN

(photos: supporting the aged; view of an out building; other buildings on the property -with guess what? a cornfield in the background)

Managed to sleep most of the night, in spite of campground revelers and humid air. Camp breakfast included a bit of levity, probably due to the fact that we were approaching a layover day. Several rowdy Riders were compelled to make lots of noise while eating breakfast, hoping to "give back" to our noisy neighbors.

Rode out of camp with Rosie. At times met up with others along the way. Both of us looked in vain for a decent coffee stop or cafe as we pedaled along. Morning miles were spent on gently rolling hills or flats, interspersed with small towns. First water stop at mile 25 was next to a cornfield. Sharon embellished the usual snack fare with bags of Hostess Donettes! I find myself eating all SORTS of things that I would ordinarily scoff. When you are hungry, you are famished.

Rode on to town of Beecher (43) where Rosie and I went to McD's for ice water, soda, and ok, just 3 of those small chocolate chip cookies please. Lunch stop (mile 50 or so) outside of Reichert's Tavern, in the shade of some large trees. Sam joined us for the next leg, which culminated at a stop at Subway around mile 70. What started as a stop for a restroom, turned into a "it's just a 6" snack" break. Rosie and Sam decided to take their time for the final segment: I just wanted to get it over with. I took off and put my all into it - though my left quad was starting to get sore. Took a wrong turn at an intersection but realized my mistake only a mile into it. Right Turn at the T? Left Turn? It DOES make a difference.
Arrived at the designated dorm on the campus of Valparaiso University a bit before 4pm. Gladly checked into my room, set up my tent outside to air, and started to create the Layover Day Laundry pile. Re-charged appliances, and went to dinner at 6. Ate gobs of food just trying to fill the void. It's a good thing that cycling clothes are stretchy!
Managed to get onto a computer in the dorm lab and tapped the keys (doesn't that burn calories too?) until nearly 11pm.

With clean clothes (and bed sheet), review of my email, and fully juiced electronics, I could sleep well. And did.

I've had several conversations with other Riders lately about the concept of miles, and the definition of our days. Initially, the daily mileage on the cue sheet had a one-dimensional meaning: 60 miles - hmm, kind of like a training ride. Or, 100 miles - wow, I haven't done a century in a long time.
But we've come to find that our daily experience is defined by additional variables as well. The stated distance is but one factor. Others (of little or no concern to those traveling in vehicles) include:

1. temperature range during the day
2. wind - is it working for you or against you; does it change directions when you do?
3. grade of the road - 100 miles on the level is quite different than 100 miles of rollers that remind you of ocean swells
4. humidity level (including threat of rain or dramatic storms)
5. road surface (the ones so far in Indiana are pitted, patched and unpredictable)
6. presence (or lack) of shoulder - if no shoulder, do drivers skirt you or drive within inches of your handlebars?
7. condition of shoulder (clean, or littered with broken glass, minimized by presence of a rumble strip?)
8. food and drink ingested prior and during (in remote areas, this is limited to what you carry on the bike)
9. unexpected problems with mechanics of bike - what IS that clicking noise?
10. unanticipated problems with mechanics of rider - oh my aching kneecap

Whoever said that riding a bike was simple?

Day 33 - July 25th - Belvidere to Coal City

(photos: my daily pb&j doing a balancing act in a corn field; fellow Riders preparing their own sandwiches; comparing our height to that of the local crop; end of the day gabbing)

Up early for a good camp breakfast. Jim - who had scurried home for a night with his family - showed up bearing 3 boxes of fresh doughnuts. Early birds get the best ones. Packed up my tent and gear promptly, and checked around to make sure that I didn't leave anything behind. Nearly forgot my camelbak (for the 2nd day in a row). Rode out of camp with Janet, Rosie, Diana and Barb. Covered the first 30 miles of the day with them. In Malta (30), checked in at the water stop and then joined Jim and others at an adjacent cafe for some french toast. According to the meanu, loganberries were an optional addition. Yes please! But what was presented in a small cup next to the french toast was something that tasted very much like cranberry relish. Oh well. Fruit of some kind all the same.

Rode on to the lunch stop (around mile 50) with Jim, Doug, Brendan and Tony. How creative of Sharon to set up the table right next to, of all things, a cornfield. In fact, the truck was parked just off an intersection - and cornfields came to a point at all four corners. Made a sandwich to eat on the way, and left in the company of Janet, Rosie and Barb. A good part of this next section was basically flat - we were almost always bordered by fields of corn or soybeans. The sun broke through the morning haze, and it started to get hot. Our energy and sense of humor was being sorely tested. We stopped at around mile 75, under the shade of a large tree. Ate what we had, and assessed our water situation. Glad to find Nick at mile 80 with large containers of water and a laid-back attitude. Upon pulling out of that water stop, my determination was renewed. Barb mentioned that the next stop she wanted to make was our destination - where she could finally take off her bike shoes. I adopted this goal as my own and pulsed along the road. Where I found the energy (only some of it could have come from a 1/2 package of peanut M&M's which I quickly ate at a red light) is a mystery to me. The humidity in the air was like a damp towel that I couldn't shake off. But Barb and I pushed on. We finally arrived at the Coal City Area Club (weekend hangout for camp-loving locals), with Rosie and Janet close behind.

Sharon had set out some cheese and crackers, and out of the back of the truck, someone found a couple bottles of wine. Let me tell you - when you are dehydrated, you only need but one plastic cup of vino to forget the tedious aspects of the day! Dinner was prepared and served by a local catering group. They were astonished by how much, and how quickly we gobbled up pounds of pasta, and loaves of toasted garlic bread. As soon as they replenished the serving dishes, hungry Riders were lined up to empty them.

Returned to my tent to prepare for sleep. The air was very heavy and still. I retrieved a small paper plate from the back of the truck to use as a simply hand-fan. The inside of my zipped up tent felt like a steamroom. The ciciadas were VERY loud and their noise nearly drowned out the ruckas of the inhebriated campers parked just down the lane. What a day. What a night.

Expressions of Infinity

Day 32 - July 24th - Madison WI to Belvidere IL

(photos: bluebird box on fence post in blooming prairie at Lake Farm Park; house in Evansville; welcome sign in Beloit)

Woke up early at the hotel, but it didn't take long to pack. We ate the breakfast provided by the Holiday Inn and drove back to the campsite in time to grab a cue sheet. Another century day - 100 miles. The route was filled with twists and turns - the longest straight segment being just 9 miles. Outside the Madison city limits, I spied a McDonald's. Went inside to use the restroom and to pack my camelbak with ice and water. That done, I felt set for the day - or at least a big portion of it.

Reached Evansville (mile 40) and took a few photos of the well-kept homes. Nice town. Thought about a 2nd breakfast but didn't see a spot that lured me in and so decided to go on. Reached Orfordville to find that a couple of Big Rider alums (Bob and Liz) had set up a rest stop of us. Coffee, pastries, fresh fruit and other treats were spread out on several tables at a local park. Thanks for being there for us!

Rode on to Beloit, crossed the state line, and found our rest stop outside the Boys and Girls Club in South Beloit. Met up with Chuck there. The two of us packed our sandwiches and headed out. Directions on the cue sheet failed around the 80 mile mark. We asked for help from a local who was driving by and got us back on course. But we were running on vapors by this point. Lurched into Garden Prairie. Our only food option appeared to be the Prairie Pub. Parked the bikes and went inside. Nearly pitch dark (oh - maybe I should take off my sunglasses). The place was empty of customers - 'cept for us. The woman behind the bar gladly served us ice water, then sodas, then hamburgers. We had simply waited too long on this hot day of riding to take in some calories. The stop really made a difference - allowing us to get back on the road and ride at a respectable pace. Made it to the campsite - Outdoor World! - by mid-afternoon. Unfortunately, the gear truck was undergoing repairs and didn't show until 5:30.

Carlos, Sandy and Chona Frum drove all the way from Northbrook to take me to dinner. They arrived in the wake of the gear truck and kindly offered to pitch my tent while I showered. We then left Outdoor World for the expanse and dining options of greater Belvidere and Rockford. Had a fine time eating, talking about the Ride and catching up on family news. Enjoyed a treat at Culver's and all too soon it was time to say our goodbyes and for me to return to the World of the Big Ride.

Discovered laundry facilities and did a load to stretch my supply of clean clothes. Crawled into my fabric abode around 10pm, to rest up for the next day's century ride - the third of three in as many days.

Day 31 - July 23rd - Viroqua to Madison

(photos: friends along the roadside; produce seller)

Up very early due to a high-mileage day (110). Camp breakfast as usual. Sharon Cowdery arrived last night to lend her skills and talents to the crew staff. We are all delighted to have her in our midst.
Left the campground around 6:30. Road construction in town created a few orientation challenges, but we made our way to the highway after obtaining new directions from a local. The morning air was wonderful as usual, and a thick fog enveloped us as we rode down into a valley. It almost felt as though a cool blanket was caressing my legs (perhaps it's time to get them waxed?). Descents and climbs over hill and dale. The fog eventually lifted to reveal blue skies. What a joy to ride in such surroundings and with such good conditions. Arrived in Richland Center around 9:30 and felt the need to refuel. Saw a couple of familiar bikes against the outside of a local cafe. Spied Tony and Brendon inside and went in to join them. A short stack and some juice were just the ticket. And I requested several glasses of ice water to fill my camelbak. Tony and Brendon departed, and other Riders came in the door within minutes. We simply used the one booth and swapped out seats. As I took off, someone else came in. Must have been an interesting sight for the other diners.

Continued out of town on Highway 14. I hadn't gone to far when I noticed a produce stand located up on the hillside of a roadside farm. I pedaled down the highway and then reconsidered. This is what the Ride is about: being There. I backtracked back to the driveway and rode up to the stand. A sweet young girl was there, more than willing to point out what was available. I asked her about the peaches. She assured me that they were ripe and quite good. I tried one at her suggestion - the juice ran down my arm faster than I could keep up with it. She charged me only 25 cents for the experience. Too good a deal. Bought and ate another. My presence was noticed by another Rider - Jim - who rode up the hill. He soon was engaged in hearing about the options from the young saleswoman...I hope that others stopped as well.
The route at this point was flat and hot. Continued on to the lunch stop check point at mile 52. Made and packed a sandwich. Jim caught up with me. And we encountered Patti at well. The three of us road together, off and on, for awhile. Pulled over to a gas station around mile 75 to eat my sandwich, and drink some cold apple juice. The remaining miles of the day seemed to take an inordinate amount of time. More hills came into play. Up and down. Drink and pant. Checking the cue sheet to make sure of the route. By this point, Patti and I were riding together. We carefully manoevered our way through Madison given the multitude of directions. It was not fun to be back among the density of cars and trucks in a suburban setting. Traffic lights - what a drag. We finally made it to Lake Farm Park. Sharon was there with the truck and all bags had been unloaded. She set out some great snacks including italian ice cups.
The campsite was in a lovely setting - and the park is only 4-5 miles (mostly on a bike path) from the heart of Madison. But a midwest park, near a lake, in the summer is the perfect combination for mosquitoes. And even at 4pm, they were ever-present, each with an appetite to match mine. Fortunately, I had made a reservation at a local Holiday Inn at Barb's suggestion. She had been riding our route with some Wisconsin friends for the past couple of days and they all had rooms at the Holiday Inn for the evening. Judy and Scott also had a vehicle for transporting me and my bags (and eventually Janet and Diana as well) to a bug-free hotel room. I left my bike at the park and jumped into their van. Wow - at check-in, I was told of complementary refreshments in the lounge, and also found a mini business center with an idling computer.
Janet and Diana got a lift over to the hotel a bit later on and all of us were glad for the break.

Several of us were talking about the concept of time, and how it changes when you are immersed in an event such as the Big Ride. Each day we eagerly collect our cue sheet and set out. Our day unfolds in miles, and is interspersed with stops - both scheduled and spontaneous. Our intention each day is to reach our destination by the end of the afternoon. We might look at a watch or clock, or might not. But time is no longer a reference point in our lives.
Most Riders are not seeking out national or local news, or referring to calendars. Sometimes it is a challenge (or even seems annoying) to try to figure out what day or date it is. Our former roles (e.g. spouse, sibling, parent, co-worker) have faded into the background. We ride. We eat. We shower. We eat. We sit and chat. And eventually we sleep. And then it starts all over again. It is what we do.
Loping across the country is our occupation.

Day 30 - July 22nd - Winona, MN to Viroqua, WI

(photos: Myers family; photo of ladder and flower in Myers' garden; Janet at the Welcome sign; view of a farm; another farm view - laundry on the line; sign for the Amish bakery; old theater sign in Viroqua)

Leisurely rising this morning: only 66 miles to go. My trip to the library yesterday afternoon turned out to have an extra benefit - I was able to show a string a Riders behind me, a shortcut out of town. We then rode for several miles near the Mississippi river, on Hwy 61; but the experience was sullied by the lanes of traffic between us (on the far shoulder) and the zooming, morning commuters. Janet and I were riding together - and ended up doing so for the entire day - with the hope that she could share some of her bird wisdom with me. This segment, near the river, was so noisy with traffic, we wouldn't have heard a bird if it had been perched on our shoulders. Finally got to exit the roar around mile 17, and wound through the pretty town of Dakota. We had been told that the Myers family had once again, set up a fabulous spread for us. They had done this favor for Big Riders for several consecutive years now. Home-baked treats, punch, coffee, and other delights - including tours of their extensive, lovingly-cared-for garden. Thank you to the Myers family for making this section of the ride so special!

Rode out of Dakota, and eventually onto a long-forgotten bike path. Though littered with twigs and rocks, it provided some birding opportunities. Saw a Cedar Waxwing. Soon after the path ended, we cruised through La Crescent (on the MN side) and over to La Crosse. The bridge into town was littered with what looked like leaf debris. Turns out that there had been a recent onslaught of mayflies! The daily paper had a photo on the front page of a car dealer sweeping the dead bugs off of the windshields of cars on his lot.

Out of La Crosse, we gravitated over to Hwy 35, adjacent to the mighty River. Much of the area had been designated as a wildlife refuge and was beautiful to view under sunny skies. Stopped in the small town of Stoddard for the lunch check point, and also found a cafe open that served decent french dip sandwiches. With this fortification, we pedaled on up into a scenic valley, and farther up to some rolling hills surrounded by farmland. Some of the farms are owned by Amish families and we saw a couple of buggies moving down the road, confirming that cue sheet note. I noticed a sign for a Country Bakery and couldn't resist. Janet and I slowly maneuvered our bikes down the gravel driveway which ended at the home of an Amish family. One of the daughters escorted us to an out-building that had shelves filled with baked goods, confections, jams, and greeting cards. Crafts hung on the walls. What a find! We made some purchases and quietly got onto our bikes, respectively riding back to the main road. I was so glad that we had stopped - even if I didn't end up buying typical bakery fare.

Eventually rode down from the ridge into the town of Viroqua. Another pleasant surprise: facing the main street into town was a modern Food Cooperative. We had to slip inside to see what they had on hand - even before getting to camp. It was as though a Puget Consumer Co-op store had been plunked down, right in the middle of rural Wisconsin! We picked up yogurt, milk, produce and other items that we had forgotten existed. Had ourselves a fine snacking moment outside the store. Then went to the Fairgrounds (a.k.a. the town's designated camping spot) to settle in. After showering, I walked back through town to the library to post some notes.

Dinner in camp. Doug's birthday. Wound down for the night.

Day 29 - July 21st - Owatonna to Winona

(photos: Rochester lemonade stand; church message; sign in the community of Eyota; a sweeping view of a cornfield; church spire in Winona)

While packing up this morning, we were treated to a wonderful pink and baby blue dawn sky. It made some of us stop in our tracks to watch the colors change. Camp breakfast was just a bit finer this morning due to the 24-hour grocery store across the street. There was yogurt, cheese sticks, and doughnut holes! Long live the Hy-Vee store! Tried out of the new press pot and it worked well.

More coffee for more Riders is always deemed a success.

Loaded the truck and left town by 7. A 90 mile day ahead. Just short of Rochester, we were feted at a special rest stop set up by Ane, Liz, Ben and Tom - Big Riders from 2007. They had quite a feast set out for us: fresh fruit galore, coffee, doughnuts, and best of all - homemade cookies! We took turns sitting in the shade under the canopy that they had set up - talking about their Ride experiences and comparing them to those that we were accumulating. Thanks Alums! I hope that some of us can do the same for the 2009 Big Riders.

After enjoying the treats at the Alum stop, I pedaled on in to Rochester. Met up with Jim, Ed and a few others. On our way through town, winding through a neighborhood, Ed spied a lemonade stand. Nearly all of us stopped to enjoy a refreshing drink. The kids were so pleased to have a crowd, and they called out to their mom to "make more"!

Though Rochester isn't an enormous city, I was more than glad to leave it (and the multitude of medical buildings and related lodging options) behind. Back to the farm for me.

Miles and miles of corn, soybeans, and more corn. Passed an ethanol plant, surrounded of course by corn fields. Some residents in Eyota had posted a sign in their yard stating their opinion about this use of corn.

At mile 55, or there abouts, I had been asked to write a message with chalk on the shoulder for upcoming Riders: Big Ride 2000 mile mark. Quite an accomplishment.

Continued on through Lewiston and Stockton and eventually reached the outskirts of Winona. Had to travel a few miles along a busy stretch of road that was peppered with fast food restaurants and the like. Per the cue sheet, took a left turn and crossed over to the island that is the core of Winona.

Had to take a somewhat circuitous route to the dorm on the West campus of Winona State. Got settled, showered and headed into town on foot in search of the library. This is almost always a good way to stretch my legs and get oriented to the town. And a chance to record the day's events.

Dinner at a dining hall adjacent to the dorm. Ate lots - chicken teriyaki and rice, more of that, salad, rice krispy bars, then a couple of bowls and cereal and glasses of milk. Mmmm.

The dorm had laundry facilities in the basement - oh joy! The one element of my past life that I have yet to shed: my role as a laundress.

Much of the road today was marred by road seams. The regularity of these ker-thump uneven junctions was quite the ker-thump annoyance. Such constant jarring ker-thump became tiresome - especially on ker-thump down-hill sections. You get to wondering how ker-thump long your wheels will put up with ker-thump such jolting. And your weary backside ker-thump feels that such treatment just adds ker-thump insult to injury. I stood up on my pedals for parts of these ker-thump segments of the route. (And I recalled the experience of posting on a trotting horse from when I took horseback riding lessons). My quads are now very strong and can put up with almost anything I ker-thump throw at them. But I could sure do without road seams.

Day 28 - July 20th - New Ulm to Owatonna

(photos: peacock at Schell Brewery, birdbath garden at same; general view of farmlands, Minnesota wetlands)

Packed up the dorm room and went to the Student Union for breakfast. I've been especially hungry the past few days. This morning was no different: I gobbled up some eggs, hashed browns, juice, coffee, 2 bowls of cereal and 1/2 a toasted bagel. That should fuel me until mid-morning.

Loaded bags onto the truck and headed out of town. Because yesterday's storm prevented me from taking any photos at the brewery, I decided to take a short detour to see what I could capture in the early morning light. The grounds were very quiet, populated only by a a few peacocks. Nice time to visit!

Left the birds and beer and rejoined the route.

This morning, there was dense and very, very humid fog. It made it necessary for me to wipe off my lenses every few minutes. Drops of condensation dripped from my helmet. One solitary drop swayed on the lower rim of my little helmet mirror for the longest time.

Spent the day on Highway 14 East. Rode a short time with Jim, Reuben, and Doug. Reached Mankato (mile 25) and enjoyed the route through some of the older parts of town. Nice old stone buildings. The cue sheet then noted a right turn, directly up to a ridge and along a busy road intersecting a depressingly long string of malls and assorted clusters of national chain stores and restaurants. America at its worst. For miles and miles. Toward the tail end of this 15 minute-long commercial, I spied a Caribou coffee store. Stopped in to try out their product. Enjoyed a decent latte. Watched other riders cruise by, glancing at the building. I'm sure they knew it was my bike leaning against the outside wall. Finished the cup and was glad to see that the Malling of Mankato had come to and end. The route led back to the countryside, adjacent to wetlands, and corn fields.

Reached Waseca, where a check point and lunch stop had been set up next to a public park. A ball game was in full swing (no pun intended), and I glanced across the street to see a classic view of an expansive Minnesota lake. Baseball or boating - take your pick. Made and ate my sandwich right there. Returned to the route for the concluding 15 miles into Owatonna. Rode through new, and older parts of town, skirting the downtown (and National Bank building which I only learned later was worth a detour), and eventually located our campsite on the Steele County Fairgrounds.

"Fairgrounds" is a very general description and can be interpreted in lots of ways - would we be sleeping across from the 4-H poultry barn, horse stables, grandstand? Turns out that we were assigned to a tidy little triangle of grass just outside the hockey complex. It was buffered by buildings on most side, and only a hop skip and a jump across a busy street to a large, 24-hour grocery store. Not bad.

We had been joined on the route today by Vern, an Owatonna cyclist, and Big Rider from 2007. He and his wife Karen purchased some local corn for us to enjoy at dinner, and they secured improved shower facilities than were available last year. Kudos to the two of you - thanks for making us feel so welcome!

When our group passes through a small town - especially at an hour that could be interpreted as meal time - you can see bikes parked outside a variety of establishments: gas stations (Riders probably just using restrooms), cafes, diners, espresso stands. Walk in/up, and you will know half the people there. You can ask what they've ordered or if they know what's good. It's as though your are a local!

Once we've settled into a town for the afternoon/evening, you can go into the public library and you'll probably find a Rider at a terminal. Other Riders trickle out of the grocery store. Some are at the local watering hole. We tend to permeat our destinations. And then just as quickly, move on to the next community.

Day 27 - July 19th - layover day in New Ulm

(photos: New Ulm at dusk as seen from the Tower at our dorm; friends Katie and Rick)

Layover days always fly by, and this one went exceptionally fast. Last night, I managed to figure out when/where I could go swimming. So, first-thing this morning, I trotted down the hill from MLC to Steinhauser Field House to swim some laps. They had lanes set aside for such from 7-9am. The water felt great and there were only 2 other people in the pool - one of whom was simply doing water walking. The pool was very large: lap lanes were set up on the shorter side of the rectangle.

Went back up the hill - under cloudy skies. In fact it was sprinkling at times. Walked to the main parking lot and saw a car with bike in the roof rack, drive right in. My ACA (Adventure Cycling Association) friend Marty emerged to say "Hi Liz!". He was on a road trip to the upper peninsula of Michigan (and beyond), and knew from my blog that I'd be in town on the 19th. It was a wonderful surprise to see him. At the same moment, my friend Carolyn from Mpls was already in the parking lot waiting for me to jump into her car and go to breakfast. After chatting with Marty for a few minutes, he got back into his Prius and continued on his way. Carolyn and I then drove downtown to the Ulmer Cafe for breakfast. Standard fare, but a very satisfying chunk of time to exchange personal news, talk about the ride, and also her upcoming family vacation to the east coast. Carolyn brought me a fantastic press pot from REI that her husband J had picked up per my request. It is sizable, sturdy, and I know it will be a big hit at the next camp breakfast.

We finally gave up our table after a couple of hours at the Ulmer, and drove around town looking at neighborhoods and such. We also made a stop at Walgreen's so that I could purchase some items to help with the Big Ride camp coffee operation. The new press pot deserves a protective box all its own, as well as soap and towels for cleaning it.

Carolyn dropped me back off at the dorm in time for me to meet up with Chuck and Elizabeth (friends from Mpls), who had driven down to have lunch with me. We went to the Kasierhoff and had a very good time catching up, talking about the ride, etc. At 1:30, Katie and Rick (former neighbors from 18th Ave) phoned to say that they had arrived in downtown New Ulm. They joined us at the restaurant and the 5 of us talked for awhile.

We split up, late afternoon, and Katie and Rick drove me over to the Schell brewery so that I could see this local landmark. However, the weather had different plans. A thunderstorm that had been bottled up all day - while I was busy inside various restaurants - broke open. It was an intense show - thunder, lightening, and buckets of rain that poured down and rushed through the streets. Water was several inches deep in places. Katie referred to it as a "real gully-washer". No chance to take any photos on the grounds of the brewery. But we were content to wander around the museum and passed up the hour-long tour. We left the brewery in a downpour and Rick and Katie drove me back to MLC. Before departing, they presented me with 2 wonderful gifts: a bottle of August Schell Pale Ale and an oversized pint of fresh raspberries picked from canes in their yard just that morning. And I had thought that I'd miss out on fresh raspberries all together (the fruit on my home canes having been enjoyed by family and neighbors in my absence). What a rare treat!

I walked back to my dorm room to gather my thoughts and was met by Diana who was on her way out to dinner with Barb and Janet - along with a couple of Janet's friends from Taylor's Falls. We drove to the Lamplighter in downtown, had a filling, early evening meal, and then I finally made it back to my room to decompress.

What a day.

Spent a few minutes in the evening phoning Peter (his birthday today), David, my parents, and a couple of RedSpoke contacts. Tim told me that the ride this year has nearly 100 participants and is going well. I hope to be back in the fold in '09. The Big Ride will certainly give it a new perspective.

Friendly Farm Image - bye bye from South Dakota

I really like this photo of some farmland silhouettes that I saw near the South Dakota-Minnesota border. It deserves a post all of its own!

Day 26 - July 18th - Tyler to New Ulm

Up at 5 or so. Cool morning air, with some fog on the athletic field. Camp breakfast at the truck. Riders were in a light-hearted mood, perhaps due to the upcoming layover day, or that fact that we had fewer than 90 miles (only 87) to cover.
Left town and the fog became more dense. It was truly important to be wearing bright colors in such conditions, and to have a flashing rear light. Visibility was 15 feet at best in spots and traffic, though light, was present even at 7am.
Rode with Rosie most of the day. We stopped in the small town of Tracy to take photos at a train/prairie themed roadside display. Wanted some good coffee and perhaps a short stack, but decided to move along and hope for good options in Walnut Grove, 8 miles farther down the road. (Yes, we are in Laura Ingalls Wilder land. Passed Plum Creek somewhere along here).
Pulled up at Nellie's Cafe in Walnut Grove and stepped inside to refuel. Ordered pancakes and coffee. The former was fine, and latter probably the worst on our trip so far. But the company couldn't have been better. We were joined at the table by a local fellow - Dave Bowmann - who proceeded to share personal stories and other bits with us: his birthdate, a humorous poem to share with other Riders, a poem that he had written in memory of his wife (who passed away 3 years ago), his past occupations, etc. Dave made our visit a treat. On our way out of the cafe, Rosie asked to take photos of some local guys at the counter (all of 'em scandinavians, per Dave), as well of June - our memorable waitress. A key part of this journey is taking time to chat with the locals - to better understand what's growing in the fields, what's cooking in town, and who sits at the counter. Perkins be damned.
Rode on to Lamberton, where Nick had set up the sandwich table. Slapped together the daily bread. Janet was just taking off and joined us for some afternoon miles. Bit of a headwind for the next 30 miles, but we worked together to get through to Sleepy Eye. There, Rosie opted to take a break. Janet pulled me for this last 16 miles and we finally arrived at the Martin Luther College campus just before my feet gave out. Ouch, ouch, ouch.
The weather was warm, but not too hot. Just right for setting up my tent to dry out a bit. The laundry facilities in the dorm were unavailable, so I trudged down the hill to the heart of downtown to get a couple of loads done. Even washed my very pungent non-cycling shoes. Did not bring back-up footwear so was confined to the laundromat for the better part of an hour. Returned to campus in time for a delicious dinner at the Student Union. Stir-fried chicken and vegetables. I ate an embarrasing amount of it, along with 2 bowls of chocolate pudding. And drank several glasses of cran-apple juice. Thought I would pop.
Spent the remainder of the evening plotting out my layover day - how to fit in a swim, coordinating visits from Minnesota friends/neighbors, etc.
The first evening is the best part of a layover day - especially that moment when you know that all of your clothes are clean and your appetite sated. Tomorrow will go by SOOOOO fast.

Day 25 - July 17th - De Smet to Tyler, MN.

Woke up a couple of times in the night to hear a bit of rain. But no big dramatic storm. Got up around 5 or so. These days, it's still somewhat dark at that hour. Riders are stumbling around camp with their headlamps on, trying to recall where the bathroom in THIS camping spot is located. Though it had rained during the night, the grass was dry and the air warm. However, as the sky lightened, you could see large clouds on the horizon. I packed up my tent and gear bag, put them on the truck, and went to have breakfast at the church adjacent to the park. Very simple fare: dry cereal, some muffins, juice, and church urn coffee. As I sat down to eat, Ash pointed up at one of the daylight windows. You could see tree branches waving in the wind, and imagine the accompanying downpour. Occasional flashes of lightening brightened the room. Our location, deep in a dank basement space, effectively muffled thunder claps. Late-rising Riders joined us, dripping from the heavy rain. Oh well. Only 76 miles today. We could hang out for another 20 minutes or so. Someone jokingly asked if there was a Bingo board available to use.

After waiting out the storm for a bit, I decided to give it a go. Put on my tyvek jacket, a rain cover on my handlebar bag, and pedaled out of town. Today, I needed to do my best to take some final photos of South Dakota to make up for loss at the library of other SD images.
The rain had eased up but it was still drizzling for awhile. First rainy morning that I could remember on the trip. Took my time, waiting for the skies to clear and photo opps to become available. After swinging by the check point in Brookings (mile 40), I took a short detour into the local business district to see if I could find a good breakfast cafe. The main street was all torn up, with construction machinery in full action. I skirted the mess to rejoin the district a few blocks down. Found a drug store, bead shop, scrapbook store. Everything but breakfast. Saw a couple of people coming out of a small bookstore, so I asked them where I could find a good meal. They first suggested the Cook's Kitchen, just down the block. But then recalled that it was in the throes of a remodel. So they mentioned the Cottonwood Bistro "just down 6th on your way out of town. You can't miss it." Worrisome words - "you can't miss it". Just watch me.
Took 6th out of town. Had to ask one other person - sitting in a parked car reading a book outside of a closed Dairy Queen - about said Bistro. With her directions, I found the spot. In the process, I was passed by a wave or Riders - going in the opposite direction - headed to Perkins for breakfast. Hmmm. Should I join them, or check out the Bistro? Took the local option. The Bistro was great! A tidy, contemporary, coffeehouse. Enjoyed a delicious almond croissant, 3-shot latte, and a couple of scrambled eggs. Before leaving, I asked the barista if he would put a few scoops of ice into my camelbak and fill it with water. He hadn't seen one of the devices before but was glad to help out. Now that I had a real breakfast under my belt, I could dive into the next stage of the route. By that point, the weather had improved. Gladly shed my jacket and got ready for some pleasant miles. Rode and took pictures of the countryside. Saw a sign "U-Pick Strawberries - Last day of picking Today". Don't know why, but I had never associated strawberries with South Dakota. I gingerly rode down the gravel driveway and met the property owner - a lovely woman who looked a bit like Susan Sarandon. She welcomed me to the farm and suggested that I ride out to the edge of the 2 acre field to try out some of the last fruits of the season. She mentioned how pleased she was with the rain that came last night - "our first measurable rain in 22 days". Mine too. People were picking in earnest, and there were a couple of young children playing with two 7-week old kittens. Took some pictures and sampled a few berries and then continued on my route.
Right at the South Dakota-Minnesota border, there was a wind farm. The setting was dramatically different than one that we had passed in eastern Washington, high on a dry ridge near Vantage. These turbines popped up amidst green fields of waist-high corn. A farm within a farm. Perhaps another source of income.
Crossed the border into Minnesota - land of 10,000 lakes. Saw Joe and Catie hanging out there and took a photo. Another 13 miles or so and I arrived in Tyler. Found the school grounds and the gear truck - but no one else was around to help unload. Rode back through town and located what else? The library. Checked my email and was welcomed by one of the staff who let me know that the drinking fountain just outside the door - in the lobby shared with City Hall - had wonderful cold water. Guess I looked thirsty.
Back to the school. Set up camp. Showered and went back to main street. I stopped by the grocery and bought some yogurt and an apple. Scarfed down the yogurt and then found a town bench where I sat and ate the Braeburn. A (local I presume) woman walked past and said to me "How nice to see someone sitting on that bench eating an apple instead of smoking a cigarette". Couldn't agree with her more. There are lots more apples in the store. People should give 'em a try!
Group dinner at the Pizza Ranch in town. Then time in camp spent reading the local paper, checking the AAA map of Minnesota, and cleaning off my bike. Listened to some music on my iPod, did some reading and went to sleep.

Day 24 - July 16th - Miller to De Smet

Sleeping in the Miller High School gym simplified the camping element, but I have to admit that the air was a bit stuffy. Packed up my stuff, loaded it on the truck and joined the camp breakfast at the truck. Another coffee press pot had been broken, so we are now down to just one. Perhaps we can pick up another one in Minnesota. I'm told that there is an REI near Mpls. Some Riders are going up there during our New Ulm rest day. Maybe someone can pick up a replacement.

Had a very enjoyable ride in a loose draft pack with Rosie, Janet, Tracy, and Diana. After riding by myself all day yesterday, I decided to find a tribe for awhile. We had a really good time together.
The landscape offered a few more contours that what I saw yesterday. But the road itself was fairly level for the whole route to De Smet. Gentle tailwinds at times made the miles fly by. Had a water stop at mile 15 in Wessington. And a check point in Huron - a sizable community. Directly across the street from the check point (where we also made our daily sandwich), was a street named Midway. As this day is our "midway" of the Ride - in days, and I believe in miles - it was very appropriate to take a group shot by the sign. (Thanks to Rosie for sharing one that I'll post in a day or two).
I was craving pancakes at this point. The others agreed that it wouldn't hurt to find a restaurant. Rode through town, but didn't see much in the way of a cafe. On the outskirts, we stopped at a gas station and the nice attendant redirected us about a mile back to The Plains restaurant. It was easy to spot as its parking lot was home to the World's Largest Pheasant. Went in and found seats in the cafe - just diagonally across from the complex's bowling lanes (?!?). Patty was our waitress and did a fine job. Turns out that she is originally from Chicago, not far from Rosie's old neighborhood. Enjoyed a short stack, some eggs, and "coffee".
Left Huron and started in on the final 25 miles. With about 15 miles remaining, my legs just had to push and I moved away from the group. Did my best to hammer out the final stretch and appease my limbs.
Arrived in De Smet by mid-afternoon. Nice city park for our campsite. Warm, steady breezes. Found the local library and spent over an hour trying to upload photos. Inadvertently deleted all photos from my camera. Good lesson: COPY the file - don't just move it to the desktop. Fortunately, David had saved all shots up to Rapid City on his computer as well as on a disk. But I did lose ones that I had taken since then and hadn't posted. Oh well. Will need to take plenty tomorrow to prove that I did indeed ride through South Dakota.

Dinner was served to us in the basement of a church adjacent to the park. Returned to the campsite to find that I had a flat. Spent some time diagnosing the cause, and fixing it with help from Ash and Nick. Wrote and talked with Rosie for awhile. Word spread that we should expect a thunderstorm during the night so I guyed out the rainfly. Went to bed and waited for the storm.

The other day when Tony and I were riding together, he asked me for ideas for good lunch items to offer cyclists. (He will be organizing the mid-day meal for a sizable organized ride in Pennsylvania next year). We did some good brainstorming about what tastes good when you're riding all day. Rice and beans. Grilled cheese sandwiches. Steamed red potatoes and seasoning salt. Fruit - including bananas of course. Chips or pretzels - something crunchy with salt. Lots of cold drinks. Salads - but nothing too heavily seasoned or fiber-ful.
Maybe skip PB&J sandwiches.

Day 23 - July 15th - Pierre to Miller

The day started with somewhat of a leisurely camp breakfast. Only 73 miles today, so Riders took their time. I had a sense that the temperature was going to climb though, so I didn't linger too much and left a bit after 7. Had a hill or two on the way out of town, but then the grade evened out. Once outside of Pierre, the landscape was tabletop-flat, all the way to Miller. I passed fields and fields of corn, wheat, and sunflowers (though not in bloom). Ranches, and pasture land. For miles and miles.
Our first water stop was at the 21 mile mark, in Blunt. The crew had set up a table with cupcakes and M&M's in honor of Janet and Chad's birthdays. I enjoyed a bite, and then headed back out to the prairie. Rode through the towns of Harrold and Holabird, and stopped off in Highmore.
There, the sandwich truck was set up. Made my PB&J, but packed it. Walked over to a small white building - the Frosty Freeze - and was the first customer of the day. Ordered a hamburger and a small root beer. Also asked the young guy behind the take-out window if he would pack my camelbak with ice and then fill it with water. He was intrigued with the whole operation but did a great job. His fill-up lasted me the next 25 miles in the heat.
After enjoyed my meal, I hopped by on the bike and continued on toward Miller. It was indeed getting hotter - and my feet were starting to toast. I stopped a couple of times where I found some shade and squirted water from my water bottles into my shoes. Not as nice as a cold, gurgling stream - but it helped.

Today's route didn't have much in the way of "roadside attractions". Nor was Miller touted as a destination where we would want to see/do lots of things. That made it tempting to take it easy and just stroll along. However, when the temperature rises - you just want to BE THERE. Regardless if THERE is a town with a population of 150. You want to be off your bike, and in the shade - ideally with a cold drink. I was glad that today's destination was getting closer by the minute.

Once I reached Miller, I rode down 5th Avenue per the cue sheet. Ah, a school. With an open door. But a glance at the artwork on a hallway mural suggested that I was standing inside the Elementary school. I had a hunch that the high school might be on the same street but further away from the main drag. As I rode farther down the street, I was met by the driver of a pick-up who simply said, in a friendly tone, "Follow me". I did so, and we met up at the very end of 5th, in the parking lot of the high school. My guide? Jerry, the principal of the school. He in turn introduced me to Renee, the custodian. What a welcoming committee! They pointed out an ice machine, large computer lab, and even a washer/dryer that we could use. Riders could sleep outside - across the street on the athletic field, or inside the building. Just sitting inside the school for the afternoon was a treat: shade, and cool air.
Once all Riders were in, we strolled downtown to Taylor's Restaurant and Lounge for dinner. Many toasts to both Janet and Chad. And Janet walked on her hands for us.

On the prairie, you can see power poles stretch for miles and miles. They seem to never end. Seeing them disappear into the distance, reminds me of a childhood amusement. I used to stand in my parent's dressing room and open the mirrored doors so that they faced one another. I would then stand between them and gingerly look to my right or my left and see...infinite images of Elizabeth Anne. She seemed to stretch from here to ....well, who knows? And who could guess that 45 years later that I would be thinking of that as I ride a bike across the United States.

Day 22 - July 14th - Kadoka to Pierre

Loaded up the truck by 6 and headed back to the H&H Restaurant for eggs, homemade biscuits (3 please - and and do you have any butter?), juice, fruit and "coffee". You could tell it was going to be a fairly warm day. Rollers for much of the first 18 miles or so, right along that I-90 service road. Little-to-no traffic made it nice, along with early morning cool air.
Today's routing was quite simple: 18 miles east, 40 miles north, east again for 38 or so. Stopped in at the designated lunch-prep stop and made a sandwich. Rode out of town with Tony (and with him for most of the rest of the day) Both of us commented that we felt an increase in humidity as we climbed the little hill out of Midland. Hmmm. Perhaps this town is the dividing line between arid and humid (summer) weather.
Early on in the 38 mile segment, we stopped to eat our PB&J sandwiches at the Oasis gas station in Hayes. Did our best to find some shade - any shade, and supplemented our lunch with items from the Oasis. As we ate, we watched a John Deere machine cart about 12 round bales of hay up the road. In short order, the driver and his machine rolled into the station to fuel up. We chatted with him to better understand some of the things we had been seeing. He told us that round or rectangular, the bundles of hay are called bales. The round ones weigh about 1000 pounds each. Yes, indeed they grow sunflowers in the area. Mostly for seed. Sunflowers grown for oil require more moisture than this area can support. He was very friendly and laid-back. Tony and I could have asked him lots of other questions, but wanted to finish the ride to get out of the heat. More rollers ahead. The miles and high temps brought on a good case of Hot Feet for me. And there was no gurgling stream in sight to end my misery. I resorted to squirting warm water from my spare water bottle directly into my shoes. That helped for a bit.
Tony blazed ahead of me around mile 80 or so. But I met back up with him, and Steve, in Pierre near the entrance to the park along the Missouri river. When I finally reached the gear truck, I was very glad to drink down a bottle of ice water and pour another one on my shoes. Ahhhh.

Set up camp and took a shower. Barb, Jim, Diana, Rosie, Janet, PattiC and I walked down to the business district (which looked a little worn) and had a good dinner at a Chinese restaurant - Welcome House. Went to Walgreen's and bought bug spray - as the mosquitoes are increasing in number. I feel that we have turned a corner and will now be regularly facing bug combat. And I need to be armed.
Transients in the park made it a dicey place to camp, but we made it work by taking turns having Riders present around the tents and (locked) bikes.
Oh, and once we crossed the river, we needed to move our watches ahead by one hour. What a time in my life to lose an hour of sleep.

Bales of hay litter the hillsides in this region. Sometimes it looks as though they've been blown around the landscape, sitting in random spots. Once in awhile, you'll see an orderly row of them. And from time to time, there will be some collections of hay that might have started out all bundled, but their shape is now more loosely defined. Bunched together, they almost look like gigantic wads of dough, rising, ready to be baked: fresh loaves of bread.

Day 21 - July 13th - Rapid City to Kadoka

After packing, David and I met up with the other Riders for breakfast at the School of Mines dining hall. He took photos of the truck being loaded, groups at breakfast, and of me getting ready for the day's route. We said our goodbyes, and he drove off to the airport to return to Seattle while we straddled our bikes and headed east. A long-distance day (102 miles) under blue skies.

We had gentle winds, often in our favor for the first 30 miles or so. I noticed a change in the scenery from days past. The hills were more tawny than green. There were occasional clusters of leaf-less trees. Small sunflowers grew up between the cracks in the asphalt along the side of the road. And there were cacti mixed in with other scrubby-looking groundcovers next to the shoulder. Saw some brown and white cows - a change from the solid black ones up until now. Seemingly uninhabited expanse. Covered about 20 miles at a lickety-split pace with Jim. A good challenge. We didn't encounter a town of any sort until we reached Interior, near the 71 mile mark. At a small, meekly-lit grocery, I bought and quickly devoured a bag of chips, a lemonade and a couple of single-serving cups of applesauce (? - it just sounded good). I then rode on by myself through this small SE corner segment of Badlands National Park. The scenery was magnificent. It was very challenging to convey the scale of the rock and stone formations and colors with the digital camera.
Just a few miles after exiting the Park, the route turned east, tracking a service road parallel to I-90. The road led right to Kadoka (after about 10 miles of rollers). The campsite was at the city park, which included an outdoor pool - already busy with local kids. Showers were in a small building next to the pool.
I helped unload the truck with Brendon and Daniel, and then set up my tent and showered. Some mosquitoes were in the air, as if to remind us of things to come. Around 6 or so, we trooped over to the H&H Restaurant, for a buffet dinner. What a wonderful meal! Brisket, fried chicken, potatoes, a trips to the salad bar. I enhanced my meal with a cold beer, and finished the whole thing with a slice of homemade blueberry pie with ice cream. Waddled back to camp to settle in for the night. Wow - in the tent, and no sound of trains! What a treat.

South Dakota doesn't seem to have rumble strips. That's right. No extended lengths of terror for cyclists. What I HAVE seen are what I'd call rumble Bits. A modest attention-getter about the size of a storm drain. Just about every 10 yards or so. When David and I were in the car, I asked him to drive over one so that I could sense its impact in a car. Barely a shudder. And on the bike, not so bad. You can regain your senses so much faster on a Bit, rather than on a Strip.
I've also noticed how many creatures die on the roads. Today, I stopped to move an expired feline off of the road shoulder and into some vegetation: I felt that it getting hit once was enough. Deer, rabbits, and assorted small rodents are regular victims of fast moving vehicles. And on a bike, you notice dead birds - perhaps too small to see when you're in a car. But quite a few. I must see a dead bird every few miles. A couple of owls, but mostly really small birds.

Day 20 - July 12th - layover day in Rapid City

Had a wonderful layover day with David. We had breakfast at the hotel, and then tried some coffee at a local "shoppe". The operation was way over-thought. Extensive tickets that the staff completed for every order. Two-part lids to control the flow of your sip. Fancy uniforms. It was as though they were trying to be everything that Starbucks is not, or they had never been to Starbucks. The coffee was...ok.
We then drove south, the 20 or so miles to Custer State Park where I had ridden the day before. Once in the park, we opted to take the Wildlife Loop with the hopes of a good chance of seeing some wildlife. Saw and heard lots of birds. Saw some deer. But it was late-morning, and larger animals were probably trying to stay cool elsewhere.
Jim had mentioned to me that Sylvan Lake was a very worthwhile sight so we proceeded to the there. It was ringed with cars and a small wedding was taking place at the shore. I got out to take some photos and we moved on to Hill City for a bite to eat. What a Harley mecca! Motorcycles and their leather-clad riders abound. Striding down the boardwalks, drinking beer in dark tavs, showing off their machines to others.
After a decent lunch at the Bumpin' Buffalo, we drove back to Rapid City. I did some laundry at the dorm while David rotated my bike tires. We met up with Ash and Pauline for dinner at the Firehouse Brew Pub on Main Street. Delicious and plentiful brisket, and dessert at well. I figured that I'd burn it off the next day. We gave Ash and Pauline a ride back to the School and Mines, and returned to the hotel.
What a memorable layover day. Time with David, and going places in a car! Didn't notice any inclines, the direction of the wind, or care about the outside temperature. Seemed strange at first, but I got used to it.

Day 19 - July 11th - Newcastle to Rapid City

Up promptly to get set for a pre-layover day ride of just 80 miles. The seniors at the Center prepared a substantial hot breakfast for us, complete with homemade cinnamon rolls. We then loaded the truck, received our cue sheets and dove into the route. Not surprisingly, we were halted mid-downtown by...a long, steady moving coal train.
The winds were in our favor and I was making good time for the initial 10 miles or so. I rode in the vicinity of Chuck and Tony. But at mile 11, Tony stopped and asked if I had seen the Welcome to South Dakota sign. I had not. We turned around, into a stiff headwind (no wonder we were making such good time) and rode back to take photos at The Sign. So, a few bonus miles for the day. T
The rest of the ride to Custer (mile 40 or so) went by quickly. There were some climbs into Black Hills National Park, and some great descents. I was glad for that there was so little traffic on the road and several of the narrow, winding stretches had little-or-no shoulder.
Once I had made a sandwich at the Check Point in Custer, I looked for a cafe for a 2nd breakfast. The first one - including that gooey roll - was long gone. Tony, Jim, Douglas, Joe and I found seats at the Bakery Cafe and refueled on pancakes and such. It was a very good idea, given the work ahead.
Just a few miles outside of town, we entered Custer State Park. A beautiful setting with nice winding roads. Traffic not too bad, given that it was the beginning of a summer weekend. Didn't see much wildlife - only some tame burros. Nick (our mechanic) had a chance to ride today. At one point he caught up with us to report that there were some very strong winds on Highway 79. We had a foreshadowing experienced, being buffeted by side and headwinds once we left the protection provided by the hills within the park. Those 9 miles didn't quite drive home the point as much as standing in the blasts when we reached Hwy 79. The wind was blowing at 30 mph with gusts up to 40. Many of us had never ridden in such conditions. It was formidable, and a true test of perseverance.
All of us made it to the School of Mines and Tech that afternoon, our wind-free home for the next 2 nights. I'm amazed that everyone made it in without incident.

David flew into town and we met up at the RC Holiday Inn just down the street from the campus. What a treat to have him here, to catch up on family and trip stories, and just be together. We ate dinner with other Riders at 6 and retired to our quiet room, enjoying some champagne from a sweet friend.

Day 18 - July 10th - Gillette to Newcastle

Woke up around 5. Sauntered across the street with Chuck and Rosie to get a cup of coffee at Starbucks while the breakfast crew was setting up. Nice to think that we have only 76 miles to ride today.
Left camp a bit after 7. Worked against some headwinds most of the day. High clouds, but that didn't keep the heat from creeping up by late morning. Had a check point in the town of Upton. Made a sandwich to have on hand. On the way out of town, Rosie and I stopped at an official highway Rest Stop. There was a nice, new building with restrooms. The toilets (in the women's room) were cold stainless steel. When Barb showed up, we had to share the good news!
Usually, such a fixture would have hardly been noteworthy. And perhaps even a bit disconcerting from a hygienic standpoint. On a hot day, after sitting for hours on a bike seat? I wanted a book to take into that restroom. I wanted to sit there all day on that cool, cool, commode.
We continued on over sun-baked hill and dale. Rolled into Newcastle by early afternoon. Found the Senior Center and chose to set up my tent outside. There were numerous options on the floor inside the building. Actually, a multitude of air-conditioned rooms for various purposes - TV, pool/billiards, etc. But he breeze that had been our nemesis all day, was now a benefit: it could quickly dry a damp shower towel, soggy tent, and generally air out funky duffel bag stuff. I walked down the street to the corner store to buy a few afternoon snack items, and also stopped by the Cork and Bottle to buy some cold beer. Barb and Rosie joined me in some shade at the back of the gear truck for some light refreshments. Didn't take any time at all to finish all that box of Cheez-Its and a couple of Henry's.
The seniors served us a carbo-laden meal around 6, after which about a dozen or so Riders participated in a t-shirt swap. We had been asked to bring a trade-able shirt on the ride and it was finally in Newcastle when we had a chance to made a bid for a jersey, pair of shorts or t-shirt to fill out our meager collections. I was very happy to snag a shirt from Jim that commemorated his last training ride this past spring. It involved a series of loops near Lake Geneva just north of Chicago.
After some more time on the time-limit-free computer station in the TV room, I headed to my tent.
Little did I know of the track ahead.

Coal trains run through this region, and specifically this town, throughout the day - and soon I discovered, the night. Long, long trains of 120 cars. Loud, long blasts of the whistle (for whatever reason at 2am) with each one. I had neglected to put in my earplug when I went to bed. And the first hours of deep sleep buffered me from the noise. But by 2, when I sleep more lightly, those shrill whistles seemed close enough to be coming from behind the building. And I could almost swear that they were pounding through town at 20 minute intervals. Hard to believe that one could get used to this regular pulse of coal cars. Gives "hauling coal to Newcastle" a whole new meaning for me.

Day 17 - July 9th - Sheridan to Gillette

The cacophony of commerce (rail and interstate activity) was ever-present during the previous night. Not such a great thing when you need to be up at 4:30am. Up that early due to the distance to be covered today: 112 miles. We were on the road by 6:15, a new record.

Rosie was our grand marshall and led us out of town, down through the historic district and out onto the byways of Wyoming.
Blue skies, cool morning air. Terrain similar to yesterday's. Lots of grazing land. Saw lots of leaping deer in adjacent fields.
Water stop by mile 25. Check point at the Leiterville Country Club. Here I was, expecting there to be valets ready to take our bikes from us. It was just a little run-down grocery by the side of the road. But the sign did say - Leiterville Country Club. Go figure.
Made a much-needed stop at the Spotted Horse Cafe. Sign in the window read: Spotted Horse, population: 2. The residents were inside the Cafe, one - a very sullen man behind the bar, and the other, a frazzled matron in the kitchen. The bartender reluctantly responded to requests from some local guys seated on stools at the bar. He avoided making eye-contact with any of the spandex crowd until he absolutely couldn't avoid it. His face reminded me of mug shots of low-life criminals who spent time with say, Bonnie and Clyde. No exactly Mr. Friendly.
But hey, whose to say that our lunch wouldn't be good? For eight bucks, I enjoyed a delicious homemade hamburger with fresh and hot HOMEMADE potato chips and an ice cold soda. It's too bad that the dark and dusty atmosphere of the place - hobbled further by the temperments of the entire SH population - couldn't enhance our visit. But the meal was reviving and much needed.
The remaining miles for the day were over rolling hills under a very hot sun. Almost immediately after passing the sign welcoming us to Campbell County, the road surface changed. The chip seal was now red (due to local clay or rock perhaps) and there were significant expansion joints in the road about every 10 yards. I mean significant. You almost felt as though you were taking a jolt from riding off the curb. It really marred any downhill glides as you bump - bump - bumped your way down. I'm grateful to have such solid wheels.
The last few miles into Gillette seemed to take forever. Here's the airport. Here's the sign saying City Center ahead. Another one: Gillete - 3 miles. When we I ever get THERE? Finally rolled into Lasting Legacy Park around 3:45. A long day on the bike.
We consoled ourselves with opportunities to help the local economy by visiting an ice cream trailer in the park's parking lot - great soft-serve. And checking out the Starbucks across the street!

I don't know if it occurred on this day of riding, or another. I suppose it doesn't matter. It could have happened most any time.
While you are riding along for miles and miles, trying to enjoy the scenery, you are also trying to stay in tune with the traffic and other obstacles (e.g. playful squirrels, road debris, wide-load vehicles, etc) around you. During some recent afternoon miles, I was churning along with another rider. We heard the blasts of a train whistle. Immediately, my companion moved 2 feet over to continue riding on the far shoulder of the road as though anticipating something big and dangerous directly behind us. We had a good laugh. Semi's don't give us that much warning and they are MUCH more of a direct threat.
Perhaps this only seems amusting to those of you who have been out on the road for awhile and have experienced mixed signals from weary braincells.

Day 16 - July 8th - Hardin, MT to Sheridan, WY

Woke up at 5. Had camp breakfast (instant oatmeal, make-shift coffee press coffee, bagels with peanut butter and/or cream cheese, bananas). Loaded the truck.

I decided to take my time leaving this morning, to ensure that I wouldn't precede waterstops. Riders taking off first-thing, or going at a 15+mph pace stand the chance of reaching stops before the crew. In those cases, Riders are on their own to carry or procure water as needed. The distance between the Riders at the back of the string and those in front is sometimes 30 miles. Too far for the crew to be able to cover. Those in back take priority.
Temps and wind today were conducive to a 17 mph pace for many of the Riders. Given my late start and those conditions, water was not a problem. Rosie and I rode the entire route together - sharing stories about work, friends and family. It all started with "what is it that you do - when you're not riding?"

We passed rolling green hills, with hints of desert-like conditions. Came across the Welcome to Wyoming sign and had to take several photos. It's located at the base of someone's driveway. Imagine having people stop in front of your house on a regular basis to take photos of such a sign.

At one point on the route, there was a marking on the road from the crew: Dogs. Hmmm. But where?
The cautionary clue was on the pavement, on one side of some railroad tracks. A train (an increasingly common part of our landscape) was passing by. Once it had gone, we hopped over the tracks, warily, wondering where the dogs were in wait. We closely ascended a short, gently climb, took a few more turns, and rode through a small commercial area. Time to take a right. Dogs. Out in the road. Looking warily at us. One starting barking, which of course alerted other dogs. As they came out of their yards, the avenue took on the appearance of a challenge course. And sounded like a kennel at feeding time. There were about 5 or 6 of us, and as many of them. We proceeded slowly with some deliberation, and spaced ourselves out. I picked up one of my water bottles and had its spout open in case I needed to try the ol' water deterrent. The canines continued to bark, and we continued our careful course through their neighborhood. All parted ways peacefully without incident. Whew. Happy to have had the warning.

Reached our destination of a KOA campground on the outskirts of Sheridan, by early afternoon. Wow, what a de-luxe camping spot. Nice bathrooms and showers, laundry facilities, a little camp store, and an ice cream social at 7pm - $1 for a bowl. Let's sign up for more KOA's.
After setting up our tents, Rosie and I rode into town to find the library. We had to dodge a bit of construction work, but found the building facing a serene park. Went inside to find the public computers. The hour limit was a bit restricting but gave us a chance to make some blog and photo headway. It's hard to keep things current when computers are a sometimes kind of thing.
As there was still time before dinner to fit in a free-form meal, we returned to Main Street and asked about sandwich places or cafes. Had a very reviving late, late, lunch at Java Moon Cafe. Returned to camp in time for a pizza delivery dinner. Took advantage of the opportunity to wash some riding clothes, and had to sample some of the ice cream while my shorts were tossing in the dryer.

We had a group meeting to discuss timing for tomorrow's ride: our longest distance so far - 112 miles. With some hesitation, we agreed to rise at 4:30am and leave the campsite by 6. Time to turn in.

Day 15 - July 7th - Billings to Hardin

Up at 5 or so to pack and take bike and bags to the front desk. Picked up cue sheets in the lobby at 6 and proceeded to the Student Union for breakfast. Most Riders were in a relaxed mood in the wake of a rest day, and with the knowledge that we had only 56 miles to travel today.

Winds and temps were in our favor. Wound our way out of Billings and onto 87 East. Bit of an extended climb out of town - but beautiful scenery. Rolling hills, somewhat green but yellow-tinged with wild mustard. Rode with Dewayne, Jim, Patti and Bob. Tailwinds nearly the entire route. At one point, I noticed that Jim and Dewayne had stopped - right in the middle of the road. As I approached, expecting to learn of a bike problem, I could see that they were focused on something in the road: a sunning rattlesnake. It was about 3 feet in length and motionless. Jim, being a middle-school science teacher, could confirm for us that the snake was just "warming up". We kept our distance and took photos.
Further on the ride, we encountered a truck driver whose trailer had detached (when he swerved, trying to avoid an oncoming car). He was in need of a cell phone. Bob to the rescue! The driver was able to reach a friend and get some help. Glad to know that we can help out once in a while.

Arrived in Hardin before 11. Set up camp adjacent to the school football field. I rode around town, found a Dairy Queen and enjoyed some ice cream. Asked for directions to the local library, which I found. Unfortunately, they maintain a 40 minute limit per user per day. Kinda tight, but made use of of it. In the meantime, Bob had asked around town for someone to ferry some Riders to the Little Big Horn battle site. Soon enough, Bart (a willing and chatty, older local guy) showed up with his car. He gladly drove groups of 3-4 of us out to the site, about 15 miles away. I went - though the afternoon was hot - and had a pleasant time wandering around the battle site. Returned to camp and finagled another session at the library before dinner.
Beyond Basil drove out from Billings to cater another delicious dinner. The evening wound down quietly and we slipped into our respective abodes for the night.

Bart was talking to me about his work - short-haul driving, truckloads of coal from a local mine to a refinery. He does this at night. Six round-trips, approximately 350 miles per shift. He mentioned the hazards of driving on unlit roads in free-range areas. I asked him about fencing. He said that in this part of Montana, people put up fences to keep animals OUT, not in. If you don't have a known problem with predators, why use any fencing?

Today's ride was quick, scenic, and thoroughly enjoyable. As I roll along under such conditions, I wonder if I slow down. It's tempting to whiz down a hill, or hitch your wagon to a fine tailwind and test your maximum speed. I can't imagine when I'll be riding through here again. But then, look - there are some friends up ahead. I should catch them.
Moving at the pace of a cyclist, it's easy to become complacent about the view. Another mountain range. Yet another photo-worthy rock formation or shed in a sunlit field. It reminds me of trips to museums and facing the challenge of viewing "one more masterpiece". If only you could parcel out the experience so that you could give each painting, or section of the route, its rightful attention.

Day 14 - July 6th - layover day in Billings

So nice to have a rest day. No riding to do at all. Regardless, woke up early as is my new habit.

Diana, Janet and I walked down 27th to City Brew so that I could get some coffee (and try out a competitor), and then proceeded further downtown to Perkins. After breakfast, I continued on my own into downtown to see if I could identify a spot for dinner, check with the Y, and see if there was a bookstore open.

The holiday weekend, in combination with the standard Sunday closings, made for a very quiet city.
Many places were shuttered. I walked down to Montana Avenue - which had an "old town" feeling, and then stepped into the Crowne Plaza hotel. Spoke with the employees at the adjoining Starbucks store, and asked some questions of people at the hotel's front desk. If you act as though you are a guest, they treat you like one! They gave me a map and directed me to some bookstores. All were closed. But the Y was open. I spoke with a very friendly woman at the front desk - Jonile. I explained that I was an out-of-towner, interested in lap swim opportunities. After she learned that I was part of a bike group "just passing through", she gave me 4 day passes - enough to share with other Riders who like to swim.
Returned to my room to grab my suit and goggles and headed back to the Y. Had a great time in a quiet, cool, lane. What a treat! Walked down the street to discover that a new/used bookstore was now open. Found a couple of books to tide me over. Stopped at a grocery store on the way back for some lunch and other provisions.

In the late afternoon, Barb, Janet, Diana and I headed back to Montana Street to find a place to eat.
The Rex Hotel was open and we enjoyed a good meal, with cloth napkins no less. And a glass of wine. How civilized.

Also managed to get some laundry done during these excursions. So touched on most of the key points of a layover day. The only downside of our Billings stay was the lack of computer access (hence, I am posting this several days late/r).

Day 13 - July 5th - Harlowton to Billings

The 4 of us left the CountrySide Inn a bit after 6am, as soon as Nick had kindly picked up our bags. Such great service! We coasted over to Wade's Drive In and Cafe for a fine breakfast. Other Riders were already there, and many more joined us. I guess that there had been a last-minute decision in camp to not make breakfast at the truck and to go instead directly to Wade's.
I had finished off some fridge treats upon rising, so didn't need much - just coffee and a cinnamon roll. The "coffee" had a peculiar taste. Starbucks Moment: one of the 4 Fundamentals of making good coffee is the water. Harlowton water tasted a bit sulphery, and/or salty. It reminded me of well water from the beach. Tastes good when it's served cold - but never really quenches your thirst. The local water made the coffee taste almost soapy. Thimbles of creme and packets of sugar were available. But I chose to just drink it... brown.

I headed out of town on my own after breakfast and glided right into a tailwind. It enabled me to cruise right along at 20+ miles per hour. The scenery was a mix of grazing land, rock formations on one side of the road, and wetlands on the other. It was fun to see red-winged blackbirds - familiar to me from the beach. The terrain became more arid and rocky as the day progressed.

Stopped at the first water stop in Ryegate - home of the Testical Festival - thankfully not in progress. Then on to Lavina, the streets of which were deserted in the hot mid-day sun. Made a sandwich at Nick's truck and got some more water. Then headed down the road. It was getting increasing hot and was a drain on my energy. Pulled over at a dusty gas station in Broadview (very appropriate name) for an ice cold apple juice from the cooler. What a good choice - fueled me in all the way to Billings. Found the dorm at Montana State and was all too happy to settle in for another rest day. After unpacking a bit, Rosie showed up and settled in as well.

Our room - way up on the 7th floor - offered a nice view of the Rimrock (a local landmark). Laundry facilities were just down the hall, as were showers. And there was even a sink in our room. Does it get any better than this? I guess it doesn't take much to excite a camping cyclist.

We enjoyed a delicious picnic dinner in the park, catered by Beyond Basil. Afterwards I took a long walk to orient myself to our section of town. I soon discovered that Billings is definitely a Car town. In both Spokane and Missoula, pedestrians seemed to rule the roost. If you so much as approached a curb, let along crosswalk, all vehicles in the immediate vicinity would come to a halt allowing you to saunter to the other side. However, in Billings, the streets were very broad - to better accommodate many, and often over-sized, vehicles. Another clue, was that I couldn't find trash recepticles on the sidewalks. No trash to throw away I guess 'cause you're always in your car or truck.

I had been told that the MSU pool was not available to us during the holiday weekend so I was compelled to scout out the Y, which had been my back-up in Spokane. Though the building was locked up, there was lots of promotional signage for Summer Camps for Kids. Will have to check back tomorrow when I have a whole day to squander.

Day 12 - July 4th - Townsend to Harlowton

(Slept a bit fitfully during the night due to more thunderstorm activity. But nothing matched the 10:30 show.)

We awoke to partly cloudy skies and the air seemed a bit humid - as if to keep us in line: we can put on another show for you at the drop of a hat.



Broke camp quickly. Had breakfast at the truck and headed out of town. The first 10 miles or so were very discouraging. I think that it was simply a combination of just having had breakfast, a bit of a headwind, and it being the first miles of the day. The road undulated a bit, with no big hills. All the same, the going was slow. Knowing that I had 90+ miles ahead, I was wondering how I would ever get them done at this rate of 9 or so miles an hour.



With a sigh of relief, I came to the base of our morning climb: an 11 mile, very gentle ascent through Deep Creek Canyon. What a lush and beautiful segment of the day's route! As it was only 8am or so, traffic was very light to non-existent. The road wound up the canyon in very close proximity to fast moving stream (The Creek I suppose). The rock canyon walls were not excessively tall, but you still felt contained - almost embraced during this journey past trees, vines, small pasture-like areas, and the ever-present water. I pulled over to try to photograph a wonderful cabin with a red metal roof that was perched on a rock foundation right next to the stream. A little bridge enabled you to cross over the water to reach the house - one side of which was concealed by a wild rose bush. Had to curse the limitations of a camera lens (and operator, for that matter).

Upon reaching the top of the climb, the canyon opened up to some beautiful meadows, and revealed a canopy of blue sky. There were some horses grazing to my right. What a wonderful, wonderful spot. And yet, how different the experience would have been with strong winds, or rain, or heavy traffic, or swarms of bugs, and while we're at it, a rumble strip.

Mark had a check point set up at the summit. Several Riders clustered there to fill up water bottles and munch on fresh cherries and packaged cookies. The descent was protracted somewhat by a few miles of gentle rollers. The rollers were fine - but always had me wondering when I'd be topping off the last one, ready to cruise down into the ensuing valley. I finally reached the apex and was treated by an expansive view toward White Sulpher Springs. Meadows in front, mountain peaks to the left, and the town out a bit toward the right - 8-10 miles away. The descent was a dream of an easy grade - I didn't use my brakes for several minutes and yet didn't register more than 25 miles an hour. The view was wide open allowing me to see where it bottomed out.

During this stretch, I determined that when climbing, I prefer to feel a bit hemmed in. Don't show me the top. It might appear insurmountable. And when descending, I really like to have the whole region within view so that I can determine how/when to brake, and how much momentum I can safely snatch from the grade.

A tailwind took me quickly into White Sulpher Springs. The town was preparing for a July 4th parade of course, but I had time to slip into Dori's cafe, slide onto a stool at the counter and order up some breakfast. Tony and Chuck joined me as soon as my coffee cup had been filled. We appreciated the break - time to get a good meal and cold water in our bottles before sinking our teeth into the next 60 miles. Chuck continued on immediately after the meal. But Tony and I decided to stop at the Big Ride check point on our way out of town to make and take a sandwich to have on hand. The temperature had risen. The oasis of enchanting creek and canyon shade were no longer present. This was a stretch of hot, rolling hills, with marginal road surface. Though we had started off with what we though was plenty of water, the heat took its toll. We had to stop at Two Dot - a small one-horse community - where Tony gingerly entered the bar (the only place in town) and procured cold water. A can of soda didn't hurt the cause either.

We returned to the highway and rolled along, searching the horizon for anything we thought could be Harlowton. "That must be it!" I said, as I pointed to a section of trees and buildings in the distance. Tony reminded me that we still had 12 miles to go. "Oh, but the horizon can be deceiving" I replied with hope and a parched throat. We went through this dismal exercise 3 times before finally entering not a mirage, but the real Harlowton. We pulled into the camp site area - adjacent to the rodeo grounds. I was so happy to lay on some cool grass in the shade. My feet were relieved to be off the pedals. From across the dusty parking lot, I heard the rodeo announcer calling for volunteer teams for the wild cow milking contest. He really had to plead with the crowd to get a few members of the audience to partake.As the show was near its end, it wasn't worth it to buy a grandstand ticket. I was content to lie on the cool grass and pretend to be listening to a summertime radio show.

Barb suggested that we escape the heat and the anticipated rain of fireworks in the evening by going to town to find a motel room. Sounded like a great plan. We took the last available room at the CountrySide Inn and were immediately treated to air conditioned comfort. A trip to the local grocery store was the icing on the cake: our room had a small fridge to contain little treats long denied. OJ, V-8, beer, cottage cheese, and even some tapioca pudding on a whim. Diana and Janet soon joined us. The room was a bit crowded with all 4 of us, our bags and bikes. But the amenities made up for it.
Dinner in town at a local restaurant, followed by journal updates and a wonderful, deep sleep.

Place holder

Know that I'd love to post more - I have 3 more entries ready - but have reached my Hardin time limit. Hope to find a computer tomorrow.

Big Rider #49

Day 11 - July 3rd - Avon to Townsend

(There was no internet access in Billings at Montana State due to the July 4th holiday weekend. Much of the campus was shuttered, and many downtown businesses were closed. I have a time limit of 40 minutes on this terminal at the Hardin library and will do the best I can to catch up. Perhaps Sheridan will have a library that I can use tomorrow).



In Avon, woke up in the middle of the night to hear a chorus of coyotes. It was as thought they were trying to sing a round. Then all was quiet once again. Went right back to sleep, which was nice:I needed the rest. At dawn, the Avon Cafe staff pulled through and dropped off a couple pans of oversized cinnamon rolls for us to enjoy for breakfast along with our basics. What a nice embellishment!



Started off the morning by riding alongside Janet for a bit. This woman knows her birds. She can tell you that what you just heard is from a red-winged blackbird, and if it was its "song" or its "call". We talked about the marshbirds as well as bluebird houses that are sometimes attached to fence posts. Janet also told me that at home, on Whidbey Island, when she finds a dead bird on the road, if it is not too damaged, she will bag it and send it to a friend who in turn sends bird specimens to the Smithsonian for study!

I moved on a bit from my bird lesson and focused on the climb ahead. The route would take us up and over MacDonald Pass - reaching an elevation of over 6300' and positioning us near the Continental Divide. The 4 mile long climb was not too bad (merely a PORTION of Orondo Grade for those of you who have ridden RedSpoke). The view at the top was great but the sun very bright and glaring. It was a challenge to take a photo of the summit sign. If the air had not been so thin, perhaps I would have had the wisdom to simply go to the shoulder of the opposite lane and take the photo of the sign from there. Maybe next time, I'll be as smart as a chicken and simply...cross the road.



Cruised down the other side. Nice descent into Helena. The air was hazy though, and the town very spread out. I found our checkpoint, but didn't see any good spots for a 2nd breakfast. So I motored on through. A few miles beyond there were notices for East Helena. I pulled off the road to investigate. A very scrappy town, East Helena. I slowly rode down Main Street. The only soul visible was a tough looking woman with more art on her body than I have on my walls at home. I asked her if she could recommend a place for breakfast. She gestured to the left and said "the food in here is pretty good". "Any other spots around?" "Nope, not really". Well, Smith's Place it was. The eggs and toast were fine, and coffee thin, and waitress - who must have been all of 18 - called everyone "hon". I had forgotten to take off my sunglasses. But Smith's was the kind of place where several of the customers had 'em on. So I just let it be.



The meal sustained me through the balance of the route, which took us to Townsend, another scrappy town. We set up camp at the local school. It was blazing hot all afternoon and we sought shade as best we could. Found out there was a library attached to the school and that we could use their computers! (No time limit either). I managed to post a couple of entries - and enjoyed doing so in air-conditioned comfort. Returning to my tent outside was not a big draw. Daniel made dinner for us that night. How he could stand cooking over a couple of woks in that heat is a mystery to me. We settled in for what we thought would be a quiet evening. But the weather had other plans. A couple of colliding thunderstorms decided to join forces and created a dynamic show. At 10:30, Daniel shouted out that we needed to evacuate our tents as the lightening strikes were dangerously close. We huddled together under the overhang at the school, watching our little nylon homes shudder in the wind. Between lightening and an occasional check with a flashlight, we saw the tents sway to the left, then to the right. It was as though they were following an aerobic instructor. And all the while the rain poured down.
A couple of the tents completely collapsed and one almost laid completely down - bowing submissively to the storm. The clouds moved on, the rain relaxed to a drizzle and we returned to our respective spots. I was so relieved that my little REI half-dome stayed completely staked, and everything inside was dry. (Thank you Perry, Kathie, and Claire for being such good instructors on tent set-up. I had guyed out the sides prior to the storm's approach and feel like that made a big difference).

Several Riders had to move to inside the school for the balance of the night. They dragged in their wet belongings - which miraculously dried by morning. All of us hope that that our Townsend electric storm is the most dramatic evening we have on this journey.

Day 10 - July 2nd - Missoula to Avon

Stumbled over to the U of M Student Center at 6:30 for breakfast. What a wonderful spread of choices! I kept discovering new nooks: look, here's all kinds of toast! look over here, there's cereal! and would you look at that, a machine that dispenses Folger's coffee! It was helpful to have an ice dispenser and water tap to fill up my Camebak. Our route today will be just a hair short of a century. Though it is not supposed to be hot, it will be important to have cold drinking water on hand (or back, as the case may be).

The route led us out of town in short order. The sky was cloudy and air was very cool. What a nice change from hot-feet days. The landscape was lush and somewhat forested. The hills adjacent to State Route 200 were a soft green, with gentle contours. Almost looked like a painting. I soon met up with Douglas and Tony. Douglas dropped back at some point and we continued on. At around the 23 mile mark I noticed a large carved upright bear holding a street sign. I moved in closer to get a photo. The light wasn't very good but I wanted to take the shot anyway. When I returned to the highway, Tony alerted me that my rear tire looked soft. Indeed. First Flat (but no fall). By the time we had the tube changed, Mark had driven up in a support vehicle and decided that our corner was just the spot for the PB&J table/check point. Soon numerous other Riders joined us there, ambled up to the table to make a sandwich (to carry for later in the day), eat some snacks, and talk about how the day was unfolding. After cleaning our hands and making our sandwiches, Tony and I got back on our steads and headed out.

At mile 38, we stopped at Stoney's Kwik Stop where Riders had pulled over to buy non PB&J sandwiches, enjoy a hot beverage and troll the snack aisles. I ate a chicken salad sandwich ("I made that just today" said the stern (or stoney?)-faced cashier) and drank down a cold Snapple lemonade. Time to go. Miles ahead. Eventually reached Avon (mile 95) around 2:30. It was imperative to stop at the Avon Cafe (about the only establishment in town) to sample their renown pie. I scanned the list of options and decided to start the experience with a hamburger. THEN pie. Peach. The waitress was enjoying the steady stream of Riders who came in - especially the younger guys. It's not everyday that you have a herd of strapping young men in spandex stumbled in the door. After lunch (or was this 2nd lunch, or 1st dinner? I've lost track), we continued the remaining 3 miles to the Echo Valley Church Camp. Set up tents (or had the option to sleep in camper-warn A-frames). The Avon Cafe staff drove over and cooked us dinner, and of course brought pie for dessert. Apple, blueberry, peach, cherry, Boston Creme, Coconut Cream, and Chocolate Cream. What a great meal! Riders could hardy get up and make it back to their tents. It was cool by dusk, setting the tone for a good night's sleep. Only a coyote concert (they were making an attempt at singing a round) at 2am interrupted my rest.

And now a word about bugs.
When you are working your way up a hill, you can sometimes be gasping for air. Seems to be an invitation for a bug to fly right into your mouth. Your initial reaction might be a half-gasp of surprise, but this only invites the guest in further. Should you take on water, rinse and spit? Cough and blow? Be brave and swallow? And all the while you are trying to make it up the hill, not run over glass, and god forbid, stay away from the rumble strip. This biking stuff is hard!

Day 9 - July 1st - layover day in Missoula

Layover days (as well as any time that you have from your arrival the night before) go by very quickly.
All it takes is: doing some laundry; locating a computer to update your blog and check email; eat; clean off your bike; wander around the community; more computer time; eat some ice cream; locate the local Starbucks or other well-known coffee house and test out their offerings; find a spot for dinner; check on your laundry, and ping! It's time to pack up for a swath of riding days.

I had a nice time in Missoula - my first time there. Visited the Adventure Cycling office with Rosie, Diana and Barb. Wonderful hospitality there. (For AC members - use of a computer, access to cold drinks and frozen ice cream bars). As is their custom, we had a Polaroid photo take of us, noting our names and length of journey. It was then posted on their visitor bulletin board, one of about 50 taken during the past few weeks.
We left AC to wander on down Higgins Avenue, across the river, to Missoula Bike Works, Rockin' Rudy's (a store similar to Archie McPhee's - a Seattle destination), and Big Dipper - for ice cream. I also managed to fit in a swim at the U of M pool. What a treat! My thighs were a bit achy afterwards, but I know that a few laps are good to include in layover days. The water feels soooo nice.
Rosie helped me upload some photos later in the afternoon. So you have her to thank for any visuals posted for the past few days.
Though it was sunny during most of the day, there were some very thunderstorm-type clouds that formed by evening. Nice to be sleeping inside. Need to get ready for a near-century tomorrow.

Day 8 - June 30th - Thompson Falls to Missoula

Once again, the forecast was for a very hot day. And the slated mileage: 101 - a "century" - our first of eight on the full route.

Some of the Riders left Thompson Falls High School before 6am just to get a jump on the anticipated heat. But I knew that I needed some breakfast - which was being offered at Minnie's again, in town. After loading my gear, I outpaced the mosquitoes - also up early I guess - and rode into town. Brendon, Tony and I were the first ones to be seated and enjoyed copious calories (mine from 3 slices of French Toast). Other Riders slowly filed in. But Tony and I wanted to get started and so we left once our plates were clean.

The ride out of town was brisk as was the morning air. We made good time to Plains (23 mile mark) - checked in at the rest stop and also discovered eight Riders at the town's (only?) restaurant, enjoying a well-deserved breakfast. They had left early and basically ridden on vapors up to this point.

Around the bend, Tony and I enjoyed some sections with good tailwinds and the temperature was still ok. I practiced my skills at drafting a bit - though my definition of what will be passing us in the way of traffic could use some refinement. I would call out "car back" only to have a semi whiz by. And sometimes the scenery was a complete distraction to checking my mirror and I would miss the call altogether. Tony didn't comment. I'm hoping he was just pleased to see an old dog trying out new tricks.

I had developed a definite need for some real food by 10:30. At around that time we were passing through a small community (Arlee). I had just about given up hope of seeing anything that would pass for a restaurant when I spied a tattered sign. It was a bit weathered, to the point where you are skeptical about the posted promises. Was the place still standing? I could hardly make out what they had to offer. But look ahead - it's real, and it's open! The Windmill Village restaurant was indeed open and quite a find. We ordered up sandwiches and grabbed ice-cold bottles of tea from the fridge. There was seating outside - in the shade - on the deck where we could sit, eat, drink and contemplate the 5-mile climb ahead. Just to be sure, I scarfed down a homemade huckleberry muffin after lunch to make sure that I had sufficient fuel in the tank. Other Riders rolled in and we gladly recommended the place.

Prior to reaching the base of the climb, I sensed the old familiar need for a foot soak. As I rode on, I kept listening - when the traffic subsided - for moving water. Eureka! A rushing stream! Though its source was unknown (and I didn't intend to imbide), it provided great relief to hot soles. I was able to sit on the corrugated pipe and just dangle my feet in the rush of water. It was icy cold, and the movement almost simulated a gentle massage. The effects of this 3 minute cool-down lasted me up the climb (long but very gradual) and nearly all the way into Missoula. As long as I can find a moving water solution around the 60 mile mark, I think that I can make it across the country.

The dorm room on the U of M campus was a welcome sight. Once again, looking forward to a rest day. It's good to take a break.

Day 7 - June 29th - Sandpoint, ID to Thompson Falls, MT

Given a forecast for temps into the high 90's, we made a point to load the truck before breakfast. The meal was a somewhat quiet and sombre affair given the early hour and the thought of the heat ahead. With cue sheets distributed, we took on the day.

I started out of town with Bob. Within the first few miles, we noticed some crazy squirrels up ahead.
(I've quickly learned that you need to be constantly moving your view back and forth between the 2 feet in front of you and the 10 yards ahead. Immediate and future. Immediate and future. Spare yourself surprises.) Well, there were several squirrels running across the road, but maybe 5-6 others in a lather on the pole to my right. The bunch of them decided to meet their friends on the other side - as a collective - right when I was riding by. I needed to slow down to nearly a stop and neglected to give Bob any warning. Bumper bike time! Forturnately, we are stable and determined riders and neither of us fell. And the squirrels all enjoyed an adrenaline spike I'm sure.

We had been told that this particular segment of the ride was especially scenic. The route did not disappoint. The only challenge was the lack of light in some nooks, where I could see a beautiful scene but not quite capture it inside my digital camera. And the scale is impossible to convey. The hillsides and lakes are massive. You end up just trying to capture just a corner of the fabric and having to try to explain the rest. We watched for moose, and other wildlife along these first 30 miles or so. The air was still and if you made the effort to stop and just listen, it was entrancing. I was very aware of being just a visitor passing through this beautiful landscape that is home to so many creatures and plants.

My feet once again felt hot at around mile 60 or so. And the heat of the day was dragging me down. My Camelbak was nearly empty - though I had a couple of bottles of water and/or gatoraid on my bike. But they were both the temperature of a hot shower. Mmmmmm. I was riding by myself at this point. I pulled over at a roadside "deli" that sat on the edge of some farmland. Someone was on a Deere out in the back 40. I looked in vain around the building for a faucet. Saw hoses, but they seemed to be hooked up to a novel apparatus for operation. One that would require my deep thought and some experimentation. As I hadn't gotten an ok to play around with them from the owner, I pushed on. Fortuitously (sp?), a steep hillside came into view on my right. Surely a stream would be happily gurgling from its base. Surely. Then I noticed a sign stating Fishing Pier ahead. And lo and behold, my focus on the hillside had kept me from looking left to see The River! Oh, such a fine body of cold, fast-flowing water! I pulled over to the left to see if I could somehow submerge my burning soles. There was a lonely set of steps leading to the water. But better yet, several other Riders were a bit further down within the fishing area, sitting on a partially submerged viewing platform. I wearily made my way to their spot and was rewarded with a soak not only for my feet but also my backside. I simply sat in the chilly 4-5 inches of water and sighed. Daniel, Reuben and Tony saw my face brighten immediatly. "Look, she smiled!".

The balance of miles into town were fine, now that I had cooled off. Stopped for some ice cream (variation on the DQ Blizzard concept) at Little Bear. Then rolled on down through town to the high school. We had been granted full run of the place - a big treat for tired campers - and people claimed spots in several classrooms, the gym and computer lab. The latter was open with functional terminals. Does it get any better than this?
Dinner was in town at Minnie's. We consumed platters of food, but needed to maintain enough focus to ride the mile or so back to the high school. Dusk brought out the mosquitoes, but we were safely inside a cool building.