2008 Big Ride Across America

Day 49+ - August - Seattle

2008-08-10T08:19:00.000-07:00

(photo: birds awaiting a thermal - early morning outside of Clarksburg, MD)

I don't know if I sense a "transition" from the Big Ride, back to my pre-BR life, or if it is more like changing TV channels. Experiencing the Ride is a distinct reality. You get up, pack up, eat up, clutch your cue sheet (i.e. map) for the day's route, and head out to reach your the designated destination. During the event, I didn't seek out national news, and did not refer to a calendar. My mental energy was used up by staying on course, riding safely, collaborating with others in the group, and stoking my determination to complete the journey. My focus was limited to the day at hand, the horizon in sight. While aware that I was slowly chipping away at a larger goal, gazing directly at it might have been counter-productive.

I have returned home and to work. It's been interesting to hear from people who had been following my blog.

"You haven't mentioned your hot feet recently. Did that get resolved?"

"You seem tired toward the end. Were you really?"

"You sure ate a lot. Did you gain any weight?"

"How did your bike hold up? Did you have many problems?"

"You didn't mention rain. Did you have any?"

I can tell you that my problem with hot/sore feet DID crop up later in the Ride on warm-hot, high-mileage days. I just wasn't compelled to write about it any more. The first several instances of this painful condition were the most significant to me.

I don't know if I was more tired toward the end - I DID feel better prepared. But understandably, the accumulated mileage takes its toll on your body.

Yes, I did eat a lot. But in the state that I was in (no pun intended), my meals (quantity and frequency) were usually just a means to an end: feeling sated. Ordering pie with ice cream after polishing off several pieces of chicken and a baked potato might sound excessive. But if you are still hungry, you dive into the pie. On layover days, I often felt less hungry, as though my body could immediately dial down the appetite when at rest. Comparing pre-and post-Ride weight? I lost about 2 pounds.

My bike - a Rodriguez Stellar - held up extremely well! I had a total of 2 flats during the 3300+ mile course. A few specific actions kept this number low: David kindly rotated my tires in Rapid City; And I took a very close look at their surface every few days, to pick out any debris that might have otherwise migrated to the tube over time. The experienced staff at Seattle Bike Repair did a fantastic job of overhauling and tuning up my pony for this extraordinary event. I sent them postcards to announce that the trip mechanic had yet to do any work on my steed.

We were very, very lucky with regard to the weather on this year's Ride. There was not a single day when we packed up during a rain shower, or spent a rainy day on the bike. We had the memorable headwinds outside of Rapid City, and a few thunderstorms. And hot. We had hot days. Cloudless, hot-as-the-inside-of-a-clothes-dryer-at-the-end-of-the-cottontowel-cycle hot. But no soggy days.

A big Thank You is due to my family, donors to the ALA, donors to Pies & Pints, the Marcom team at work who covered for me during 7 long weeks, neighbors and friends who encouraged me during the event, and those who posted comments on my online journal.

May you too embrace a dream.

Day 48 - August 9th - Clarksburg MD to Washington, D.C.

2008-08-09T13:38:00.001-07:00

(photos: pea vines; crossing the finish line; posing at rest; Big Wonderful Friends)

Wow - the last morning of packing up the tent.

Went through my morning routine as though the it was just another Big Ride day. But camp breakfast was served with uncommon flair this morning: Sharon included some bags of mini Krispy Kreme doughnuts, as well as lox and cream cheese to have with full-size bagels! After loading the truck, we moved on out of the park to the highway. Some Big Rider alums were already suited up and ready to leave with us at the top of our designated campsite loop in Little Bennet park.

For some crazy reason, I thought that today's ride would be a flat course right into Washington. A parade-atmosphere perhaps, with flags and bunting. Maybe a brass band. A dignitary or two.Far from it! We were assigned to rollers, lots of 'em too. They coursed through some very pretty countryside, but they were rollers all the same. After the 25 mile checkpoint, the route took us through some elite (e.g. bordered by gated estates, not just communities) areas with increasingly heavy traffic. As this was Saturday, lots of road warrior cyclists raced past us, going in the opposite direction. They looked very serious (one buzzed by, talking on his cellphone, confirming a rendez-vous point) and barely acknowleged our waves and "hello"s.

Several of us within the group (Ash, Pauline, Barb, Diana, Janet, Rosie, Sam and myself) took turns pulling the others into town. We finally reached the intersection with the C&O Trail where we needed to contend with the weekend crowd of walkers, runners, beginning cyclists, etc. I nearly worn out my bike bell announcing our string of Big Riders. With Tracy's help, we located the Old Post Office and locked up our steel ponies outside. A former Big Rider hosted us at his greek restaurant (located in the food court) for lunch. A very ample and flavorful meal! We then took off for the Finish Line in sets of 2 or 3 (though traffic lights caused us to clump a bit). David and Daniel were there to meet me. The Ride had actually come to an end. It was hard to fathom.

After 48 days of living in a parallel universe - focusing only on cue sheets, personal and group safety, eating, drinking enough water, and staking my tent securely in the event of a storm, those daily concerns have now vaporized.

I am now back at home, having done laundry (endlessly and without quarters in hand), answered a phone call on a landline, sorted though my bags in a vast, bug-free space, and tried to make sense of what I have accomplished.

It's challenging to bring both the Big Rider cyclist and the person-at-home into a singular focus, as the same being.

Did I actually ride across America, or was that my alter ego?

Day 47 - August 8th - Gettysburg PA to Clarksburg MD

2008-08-09T13:37:00.000-07:00

(photos: fruit stand on Taneytown Road; ditto; Border Patrol gal Tracy; Steven expressing his amazement at Catie's love of a Big campFire)

Given that we had only 50 miles to travel today, our camp breakfast started at 7. It was nice to have time to gather up our scattered belongings, pack, and clean up our beloved cabin. It had been a wonderful campground oasis. Thank you Barb and Diana for your collaborative efforts to set this up for us!

Rode out of the campground with Tracy, Rosie, Diana, Janet and Barb. We stretched ourselves out over the gently rolling hills that led to Taneytown. Along the way, we passed the roadside pinacle that marked the Pennsylvania/Maryland state line. Photo opps of course. Especially given the background of pleasant blue skies.

Once we reached T-town, we saw that many Riders had opted to stop at Three Fine Cups for a some of thoughtfully prepared coffee. As was often the case, we seemed to swarm the confines of the shop. A trio of locals sat in a window seat. Big Riders encircled all other available tables. Oh well, our little contribution to the local economy. After coffee, we rode on to Midway, our only checkpoint for the day. Across the way was a plain looking building: Trout's Towne Restaurant. Big Rider bikes sitting outside again lured us inside. It must be time for some lunch. Sam joined us for this mid-day refueling, joining us after lunch, as we continued on to Frederick. Nice looking town, with beautiful brick rowhouses. Took awhile though to emerge from the other side - lots of urban/suburban traffic. Finally reached some semblance of country side, which came with familiar, rolling terrain. On to Clarksburg - recognizable only via address listings on roadside businesses. Didn't see a town or village. Took the noted left hand turn into the Little Bennett Campground. An easy, winding, coasting ride to the Group C loop. Very woodsy. Several Riders commented that it reminded them of the Easton (our 1st) campsite. But the sound of traffic here, was muffled by the distance from the road.

Sharon prepared a camp dinner while several Riders chose to clean up their bikes. Clusters of Riders stood around chatting, talking about the culmination of this seven-week journey. It was tempting to stick around the roaring campfire for hours, but I was just too tired.

Day 46 - August 7th - layover day in Gettysburg

2008-08-09T13:36:00.000-07:00

(photos: Janet, a temporary resident of the Saloon, shows us her gams; a fine picnic dinner for the Golden Girls of the Big Ride)

Loved sleeping in the cabin, ensconced on an upper bunk. Woke up a bit after six. It was nice to know that I could take my time getting up and finding some breakfast. My roommates eased out of their respective sacks during the next hour. Morning hunger necessitated that I ride into town in search of breakfast. I had noticed the Season Bakery and Cafe on the local map, not too far from the library. It took just a few minutes to ride the rolling 2 miles to the center of town. Found the cafe, and locked my bike under the shade of a sidewalk tree. The cafe was quite warm inside due to active bakery ovens: a good sign. Bhe emphasis of the menu was directed more toward bakery items than a protein-packed breakfast. So I ordered a double shot latte, a ball of fresh mozzarella cheese (from their sparse deli case) and a cinnamon roll. Rosie joined me and ordered a cappuccino - a rare find. We then walked around the corner to the Adams County Library. Locked up our bikes and went inside .

At the circulation desk, the librarian on duty carefully explained the process of signing up for computer use. She mentioned that "if we didn't need our entire hour", we could come back later in the day to use the time. I decided to jump in at that point and explain our situation: we are part of a group of cyclists who are riding across the country. We need access to computers in order to update our journals and that it might take MORE than an hour. "Oh dear:". But this librarian didn't feel limited by the normal confines of computer use: she checked with a colleague who confirmed that their back room computer lab was not currently occupied. She quietly escorted us to the room and turned on two computers for us to use as long as we needed! Fan-tastic! We worked diligently at our respective stations until nearly 1pm. Rosie then went off to meet up with Patti and some of her out-of-town visitors, and I went in search of a light lunch. Ran into Ash and Pauline while I was outside of The Spot, munching on a bagel. Rode my bike through parts of the center of town, and also out through Cemetery Ridge. Took in views and read posted signs with information about the War.

I had been watching the darkening sky, wondering if we were due for an afternoon thunderstorm. Sure enough, on my ride back to camp, the wind suddenly picked up, nearly blowing me sideways. This was my warning: find cover. I raced back down Taneytown Rd and made it to the camp office just as oversized drops of rain began pelting the area. I sought refuge there, at the entrance, and just waited for the storm to pass. Within 20 minutes, I could continue back to our cabin, where others were inside either resting or working on their laptops.

That evening, we had a wonderful picnic dinner outside of our cozy abode. Other Riders wandered over to witness what a good time looks like, and they stayed on 'til after dark.

There have been layover days spent in communities where I felt that I SHOULD be siteseeing or making an effort to learn more about the area. But it's as though my capacity to absorb new info was hampered by low energy or simply the need to rest. Gettysburg was the most significant example of this. There were Riders who spent the whole day in camp, and others who were compelled to take tours. I followed my natural instincts and took in what I could, and tride to accept my limits.

The changing landscape - from cows to cars

2008-08-07T07:59:00.001-07:00

As we journeyed east into Ohio and Pennsylvania, I noticed a transition in the roadside views. Fewer small farms and feed stores. More auto body shops and cars laying around. The air had lost the pungency that comes with dairy operations; it had been replaced with the smell of exhaust coming from vehicles on their way to be repaired or junked.

Day 45 - August 6th - Bedford to Gettysburg

2008-08-07T07:08:00.003-07:00

(photos: un-tested coffee shop in Bedford; thinking of my farmer, David; old schoolhouse; Janet takes a ride; confirmation that we are truly in the eastern part of the U.S.)

Awoke at 4:30am to a good old thunderstorm. Not much noise and light, but plenty of wet. Buckets of rain for nearly an hour. This was the morning of one of our longest and most challenging routes. Sharon had posted a note the night before that breakfast would be ready at 5:30am so that we could leave camp by 6:30. The rain put a damper on such a plan, delaying morning tasks by half an hour. Tents were drenched by the storm and unwieldy to pack up. It wouldn't have been surprising to see a stream of water flow from the truck's back door as it made its way to Gettysburg.

After eating breakfast and packing up the truck, we rode out of Friendship Village and on through the town of Bedford. I wished that we had had time to walk through its narrow streets and to visit the well-kept shops. But we had miles of rollers to cover today. The hilliest part of the day's route was during the first 40 miles. Around mile 15, I fit in a stop at McD's to fill up my camelbak. There was a check point set up right around the corner - facing a broad highway, teaming with semi's. The stop was conveniently located in the parking lot of a Starbucks! Bought a latte and ate a banana. Tried to psych myself up for the next 25 miles. Big dips and long climbs. And the air was muggy - yet to clear from the morning storm. Views from ridge tops were veiled in haze. At least the temp was somewhat moderate. Last year's Riders did this section in 100 degree weather, with 100% humidity.
Somewhere around mile 39, in a fairly remote area, I noticed a grocery store with gas pumps outside. A few Riders were already there and flagged me down. What a find! Shaded benches. Friendly people behind the store counters - happy to make up a roast beef sandwich. That, a bottle of V8, a bag of chips and some M&M's set me back just $5. Ate on the porch and flagged down other Riders. Janet stopped by, and noticed a mechanical horse on the porch. Someone dared her to take a ride. Always a good sport, she gave it her all. Glad to provide any/all store customers with some Big Rider entertainment.
A local guy drove up in his pick-up. Very friendly - talked to us about the area. Was then compelled to display a large snapping turtle that he and a friend had recently found in a corn field. Turtle was none too happy to be shown to a crowd, as he held her out from her spiked tail. She tried in vain to snap at his wrist. "What will you do with her?" someone asked. "Eat her" he replied in a matter-of-fact tone.
He then tossed her in the back of his pick-up and waved to us as he drove off.

Mark set up a lunch stop in Cowan Gap State Park. The miles on the way to the stop were very pleasant with more level terrain than the first 30, and lots of shade. The stop in the park was at a lakeside beach - complete with concession stand (why not try a cone?) and crowds of people. We kept to ourselves at a few tables on the fringe of activity. Made and packed a sandwich. Made a half sand and ate it.
Rosie and I got back on our bikes and started in on the final 60 miles. Gentle rolling hills with few surprises. Occasional towns - some with sluggish, noisy traffic. Give me a country road embraced by corn fields, please!
Check point in a shady park. Had a very nice attendant at the snack stand fill my camelbak with ice. This should get me through the day. Cold water is such a boon on a hot day. We rode on through rural areas and small towns. My feet started to ache. Time for water in the shoes. Squished along, easing up a gradual incline and then had a chance to do some coasting. Passed a farm market hat advertised various fresh veg and fruit including "lopes". We assumed "cantalopes".
Reached Gettysburg and took a right turn in town, prior to village square. Rode 2 rolling miles east to the Artillery Ridge campground. Diana and Barb had reserved a cabin for 6 - a nice reprieve from a tent. We luxuriated in having a space to fully open up our bags and spread out their worn-out contents. Drank cold beer and ate pizza on the front porch of our cabin (ironically labeled "Saloon"), happy that our final long-mileage day was behind us. It would be great to have a day off the bike tomorrow.

Day 44 - August 5th - Confluence to Bedford

2008-08-07T07:08:00.001-07:00

(photos: bike weather vane atop bike shop on YRT; Meyersdale historic train depot; monument in Berlin cemetery)

Slept well, likely due to the constant sound of water movement from the river. At 5am or even 5:30, it is still dark out. Bit by bit, Riders emerge slowly from their tents - headlamps on - and make their way to the bathroom. It's an amusing sight. At dawn, lightening bugs go to bed and flickering headlamps take their place.
Camp breakfast (granola with milk, banana, yogurt, coffee, cream cheese on a mini-bagel) at the truck. The sky was cloudy and wouldn't commit to a storm or clearing. We were advised to carry rain gear - just in case. The day's route had 2 options: 26 miles of steep rollers, including reaching the summit of a Mt. Davis (the highest point in PA), or 30 more miles on the trail. Only a handful of vigorous Riders opted for the climbs - most were glad for the trail option. The balance of our 78 mile route included sufficient rollers to work off a 2nd breakfast and other spontaneous meals.
The bike trail ended in Meyersdale, where many Riders (hill and trail folk) coasted through town to Missy's Cafe. Another case of overwhelming one wait-person (though she had help in the kitchen). Service was slow, but we didn't mind. I was very hungry and ordered a Full plate: chicken-friend steak, 2 poached eggs, potatoes and toast. Split a bottle of juice with Rosie. And drank several cups of "coffee".
Back on the route (under partially cloudy skies), the roads pitched and dropped. There were a few level sections on ridge tops or in valleys, and then more climbs and descents. Stopped to take photos at the cemetery in Berlin. Captivated by the metal statue atop a monument for a soldier. Civil war casualty. Headstone for his wife was adjacent, with "Mother" in large letters. Why not a statue of her in full dress too?
Stopped for soft-serve on the final stretch. Finally arrived at Friendship Village campground on the fringe of Bedford by late afternoon. This was a KOA campground - complete with "office", game room, laundry facilities, shuffleboard court and other enticements to keep you hanging around for weeks on end. Park your motor home, extend the awning, roll out the astro turf and get ready to Kamp!
Cleaned off my bike and did some laundry. Given the recent weather forecast, I staked my tent well, and guyed out the sides. Just in case.
Sharon and the dinner crew grilled hamburgers for dinner. At last, sufficient food: she knows all too well how much we can put away. Some Riders stayed up for awhile, their active laptops illuminating the pavilion.

Day 43 - August 4th - Washington to Confluence

2008-08-07T07:07:00.000-07:00

(photos: farm buildings on a hillside; Mingo Creek park; bridge in the park; bluebird box along trail; view of Youghiogheny river from the bike trail)

Heavy dew during the night, and cool temps - which made it easier to sleep. But it felt chilly at breakfast and several Riders added a layer of clothing to stay warm until we got on the road. The day's route of 88 miles took us through some high-traffic areas, and included several steep climbs within the first 30 miles or so. One hill was at a 12% grade. Other sections were just long, sustained climbs. But once we reached West Newton - and the lunch stop (mile 38) - the terrain changed dramatically. We would ride on the YRT for the balance of the day. Over 50 miles on a level bike trail of crushed limestone, paralleling the Youghiogheny river. Lush vegetation provided lots of shade. No sunburn worries here. Riding this surface sounded like I was rolling over a path of Grape-Nuts. The steady crunch became monotonous after awhile and sometimes overwhelmed sounds from the river - either water movement or exuberant water rafters. A rocky hillside on the right-hand side of the trail, included damp sections with water dripping into the ditch. Reminded me of the hillside behind the old Carnival restaurant at the base of Terwilliger Blvd in Portland.
I pulsed along the trail until it opened up in the town of Connellsville. There, in a park shelter, a Big Rider alum from 2000 - Fred Husak - had set up a rest stop for us. Sandwiches, cold drinks, fruit and ice cream were waiting to be consumed. Fred knew what we needed! His wife Rose Ann and daughter Bethany were there too, to chat with us and make the stop as hospitable as possible. Today, I had wanted to get into town to find the library so that I could update my blog. But some annoymous Big Rider angels had set up a laptop for me to use right in the pavilion. Thank you!
I spent a couple of hours in the shade at a picnic table, uploading photos, etc. By 2pm, I decided that it was time to unplug from technology and return to the trail. Rode on to our campsite in Confluence - right off the YRT. It was in a beautiful setting, right next to the river. The sound of moving water provided soothing white noise for us all night long. As we were in a valley, cellphone reception was nil. I stopped by the camp office and asked the woman on duty if she could provide me with a weather forecast. Within minutes, she printed out a local report: 30% chance of showers this evening, 50% chance of severe thunderstorms - with high winds and possible hail - tomorrow. Oh joy. Shared the news with others and crawled into my tent.

Day 42 - New Waterford OH to Washington PA

2008-08-04T09:46:00.001-07:00

(photos: East Fairfield church message; Welcome to Pennsylvania; busy porch of general store in Burgettstown)

Due to requests from a few Riders, Sharon set up breakfast to start a bit later than usual: 7am. We had only 62 miles slated for the day, and felt we could afford the luxury of more zzz's. Today's route consisted of deep rollers with a few long climbs. Towns in this area had a scrappier appearance than those from a day or so ago. You could sense the transition from ag-based communities to those trying to sustain themselves with industry.
At the peak of one hill, I scanned the horizon. Farm fields were behind me and laid out in the valley below. But active, tall, smokestacks were in the distance. The view seemed to imply that Pennsylvania meant Industry. I began the noted long descent - not noticing the Welcome to Ohio sign on the left-hand, ascending lane, and reached the base of the hill. Mark was there to point out that an official Welcome to Pennsylvania sign could be found about 1/2 mile to the right, whereas our route continued to the left. How can you pass up a sign photo opp? Got a shot of the PA signe and even went back up the hill to get a picture of the Ohio one as well. (When crossing from Indiana to Ohio, we did so on a county road that only noted the crossing within a street-name sign. Wanted to have a more official-looking one in my archives).
Rolled on into my first PA town: Midland. Looked fairly run-down. Unkept rowhouses lined the road into town. At the mid-town check point, I asked Mark about local cafes. He pointed to one down the block - one of the only bright spots around. The Karma Cafe. I locked up my bike and went in. Old building, very high ceiling, illuminated by daylight from street-side windows.. A seasoned wait-perso behind the counter seemed to be going through Opening tasks. I sat on a stool at the counter and ordered some coffee - there was a REAL espresso machine on the back counter - and a fresh-baked apple muffin. As other Riders saw my bike and filed in, the tension mounted a bit. "I'm the only one here so you'll just have to wait" said the wait-person/cashier/cook. We're a patient crowd for the most part. Few seemed to mind the hap-hazard way of ordering (no menu present: speak up or you won't be fed). If she looked your way, you needed to ask what was available and pick something on the spot. The place did accept credit cards for payment, but the machine had run out of receipt paper. You get the picture. But the breads, muffins and cakes were made in-house. It was very much worth the experience to stick around to eat and drink.
On my way out of town, I passed the Beaver Valley nuclear power plant. Ominous facility. We had been warned not to take photos - as your camera might be confiscated. Ok, ok, I'm out of here.
Moderate to deep rollers for the balance of the day. Stopped in Burgettstown (last chance to make grocery-type purchases before camp) and meandered along some back streets. It was Sunday, so most everything was shuttered. But I could hear a loud voice down an alley way, and spied some older guys hanging around an open door: an auction was in progress. Farther down the street I noticed the general store. Its porch was crowded with any number of things. A stretch for me to imagine living in such a place. It reminded me of a worn-down italian hill town for some reason - maybe due to its steeply sloping, narrow streets. And the sense that life was being lived behind shuttered doors and windows - but not on view to just anyone.
Continued on in the direction of our designated camp site: Whispering Pines campground. Stopped at a farm market along the way to purchase some local honey, a small town paper, and a cold drink.
The campground was small and basic. Some sites were bookmarked with vacant trailers. And other sites available to us were on a grassy slope. We made the best of it. Having a shower and a chance to set up your little tent home is often all that we need, along with a few thousand calories in one form or another.
Dinner was catered by a local company. They underestimated our appetites. No matter. We'll make up for it tomorrow.

Day 41 - Burton to New Waterford

2008-08-04T09:45:00.000-07:00

(photos: signs of things to come; local transportation option; steel mill boiler; flame on; local produce)

Last night, it took me awhile to get to sleep. Was it the coffee at dinner (perhaps not truly decaf)? Was listening to music for 30 minutes too stimulating? Seems like I finally fell asleep around 11 or so. Woke up a bit after midnight to hear an electric storm in route. First the thunder - sounding like bowling balls rolling down a hardwood hallway. Then infrequent flashes of lightening. Then mixed together. The wind started to blow - but it seemed to be doing so in the distance. Didn't take it long though to move right over to us. The rain was slow to start but within a few minutes came down with power. Felt like someone was aiming a hose right at the top of the tent. As these storms tend to do, it slowly slid over our camping spot within 20 minutes or so. The morning air seemed refreshed by the midnight show.

We were sorry to leave the calming enclave of the Geauga County Fairgrounds - but move on we must.

The route had gentle rollers in the morning, taking us through some more Amish country. Saw caution signs noting presence of buggies, saw farms with buggies, and even a few out on the road. Went through a very contrasting area - the town of Warren with a steel mill on the edge of town. Our first close-up encounter with factory-type industry for awhile. The homes in the vicinity of the mill were run down and commercial area looked a bit distressed. I tried to take some photos at the mill. In the process of doing so, a security guard emerged from his station and asked that I not do so as he might get in trouble. So I moved on down the road (and found a couple of other good shots away from his line of sight).

We encountered several Farm Markets (e.g. fruit stands) and I stopped at a couple of them. Bought some local apples at one, and a container of homemade granola at another. Stopped in the town of Columbiana to have a calzone at a local bakery/cafe. That fueled me for the remaining 15 miles to Terrace Lakes Campground. Our designated site was up on a ridge, above the lakes and the very active office/pavilion. A bingo game was in full swing as I rode up the road to our site. When I returned to brush my teeth at dusk, a shuffle board game was in progress.

Sharon and the cook crew made a wonderful fajita dinner for us. Riders worked on their bikes and sat around to chat. Others took it upon themselves to create their own entertainment. Some of the younger guys decided to pull a prank on own of their own. They captured about a dozen lightening bugs and released them into his tent while he was busy chatting with someone at the other end of camp. As he approached his tent, he could see the flickering light within and knew that he had a challenging task ahead. Turns out that he could only get all of the bugs out by emptying his tent of belongings and then twirling it over his head. A bit of centrifical force seemed to do the job. I wonder what his retalitory efforts will be?

Day 40 - August 1st - layover day in Burton

2008-08-01T08:23:00.003-07:00

(photos: church in village square; sign for my home away from home - yet another public library)

Woke up a bit after 6. Can't seem to shake this habit of waking early. It was nice to have a leisurely time in the tent - a chance to listen to birds and watch the sky brighten with the sunrise.
Finally crawled out around 6:30, and walked up to the town square. Belle's Restaurant opened at 7
and had homemade corned beef hash on the menu. Kevin wandered in shortly after I had ordered and so joined me. Other Riders trickled in over time. After breakfast, I wandered around the town square to check out options for the balance of my rest day. Hung out on a bench outside the library waiting for it to open at 9. Once the church bells announced the hour, I went in and latched onto a terminal. Plugged in phone to recharge and dove into blog work. Uploaded photos and made good progress over the next 2 hours or so. Local kids came in from time to time to do gaming. Otherwise the place was quiet. Bought an ice cream cone for my lunch, visited the local hardware store, and peeped into some other shops. Purchased some maple syrup and then returned to camp. Cleaned up my bike, rested in my tent, and then Rosie and I walked back to town and ate dinner at Belle's. Short of a swim, a good rest day - allowing me to accomplish key tasks.

Day 39 - July 31st - Sandusky to Burton

2008-08-01T08:16:00.001-07:00

(photos: fishing pier on Lake Erie; me so glad to see an expanse of water; Rosie and Tracy ready to enjoy a Great Lake of Starbucks)

Not a great night's sleep. Air was very still and hot in the tent. Frequency of trains didn't help. Had camp breakfast around 6, packed up the truck and headed out of town in clumps. The initial few miles on Hwy 6 provided views of commercial activity. But eventually, we were treated (on the left side of the road) to the likes of well-established mom and pop motels along the lake. Once in a while, there would be a break in-between the buildings and you could see Erie. We had a bit of a tailwind - clouds moved right along - and the blue sky was nicely reflected in the water. When we came upong what appeared to be a grassy knoll available to the public, several of us pulled over for photos opps. I ran down the bank to the sand and water to check out the view, and to look for rocks and any stray shells. It was so restorative to hear moving water (and not from a shower head), and to have the expansive view of the lake. I had forgotten how many miles of mountains and prairie were between me and the Pacific. I had really missed those familiar sights and sounds.

As we rode further east, the lakeside property was taken up by large, and larger homes. It would have constituted a training ride to reach the front doors of some of these estates. Enormous shade trees were strategically positioned in deep front yards. Landscape crews were hard at work. The area reminded me of spots along Lake Washington, Madison Park and further south. Ou lunch stop was at a park with a fishing pier. Made and ate a sandwich, and took some photos of the water. Tracy, Rosie and I then left the pb&J behind and continued on into Cleveland. At the outskirts of town, we located a Starbucks and stopped to enjoy a cold drink. (On the way, went through the town of Vermillion. Very pleasant, nautical feel without feeling too contrived. Too bad Sandusky hasn't yet pulled this off).

Then onward through Cleveland. It was an urban maze. We asked for, or confirmed directions, on several occasions. Our journey seemed to attract drivers who either disliked cyclists or chose to drive as though we were not present. We wound through a few diverse neighborhoods - stopping in one for yet another cold drink (sub and chips for me). Our release from the grips of city traffic involved a few miles to and within Shaker Heights. It was then that the terrain began to change - as we had been forewarned: the return of contours, hills, rollers - whatever you'd like to call them. They appeared as ocean swells until you were in the trough - and then the ascent actually wasn't too bad. I enjoyed the chance to use a broader range of gears, and to feel the breeze during the downhill portions. The ups and downs continued for the next 25 miles into Burton. It was hot out, and we made another cold drink stop. By late afternoon, Tracy, Rosie and I finally made it to the Geauga County Fairgrounds, our camp site for the next 2 nights. It was a relief to set up the tent, and take a shower. After a very tasty chicken curry dinner made by Sharon and dinner crew, I headed up the hill to the town square to get some laundry done. Clean clothes are always a good way to start a layover day.

Beacons in the distance

2008-08-01T06:16:00.000-07:00

For the longest time, I have been trying to capture an image of a water tower. My friends know this by now, and regularly point out towers that loom before us in town, and those that we spy on the horizon. I have an idea in mind as to what I want to show/share, but it's proving to be an illusive depiction. These photos above come close. But know that I have passed many, many towers - and the perfect shot, in my mind, has yet to be taken.

Water towers are a common sight in the rural mid-west. You often see one (or more) on the horizon. It is a beacon. It tells you that you're close to a community. It might be your designated destination, or in a town that you are merely passing through. Or one that you will see only from a distance. Toward the end of a riding day, it's uplifting to finally see your destination's tower in the distance. "Ah, there's where we'll end up." Sometimes you close in on it quickly - but more often, at a snail's (e.g. your) pace. You put visual hooks into the tower and cinch yourself into town.

Some towers look quite dated, others almost appear to be space ships on stilts. The wording can be plain and to the point: Fremont. Or the town slogan might be included: Hardin - town with a reason.

Cities announce themselves with tall, new or old, habitable buildings. Water towers are an icon of towns on the prairie.

Childhood Car Game

2008-07-30T13:42:00.002-07:00

Many, many years ago, I took a trip back east with my parents. The three of us, along with my great-aunt Betty spent several days in the car, driving around to historical spots. Aunt Betty taught me a game to play in the car to make the time pass. You counted the cows that you saw out of the window on your side of the car. But the minute a cemetary came into view (on your side), you "lost all of your cows" and needed to start over.

I've been thinking about that game as I've ridden past lots of examples in both categories.

Day 38 - July 29th - Napoleon to Sandusky

2008-07-30T13:42:00.001-07:00

(photos: ferry schedule; aquatic option; entrance to Public Library in downtown Sandusky)

I was assigned to breakfast crew (along with Chad and Catie), so was up a bit earlier than usual. We worked with Sharon to set out cereal, coffee, juice, and cut up some delicious melon. In spite of extra morning tasks, I was able to leave camp with Rosie before 7. A 90 mile day was ahead.

The route was generally quite flat with some gentle rollers.

While riding down Main Street in Bowling Green, we saw Chuck motion to us from the sidewalk. He was just leaving a coffee shop! Rosie and I were more than happy to pull over, and check it out. Having a hot, tall latte in a thick glass mug can really set you up well for the balance of the day. I also ordered a chocolate chip scone - which was more like a cookie. No matter. Needed calories.

Rode on through Portage, Ballville and Fremont. Mile upon mile of corn, farm houses and out buildings, rows of soybeans. Pulled over at the lunch stop (mile 50) - a table set up adjacent to a vacant field. Mark shared with me a mention in USA Today about some recent layoffs at Starbucks. I phoned a team member to check on my status - got confirmation that my position was not affected. Whew. Change channels. Back to The Ride.

Construction work necessitated a detour - one the took us under the Turnpike in one direction, under it again on another road and back again. It was becoming a regular feature. And the wind had picked up a bit. Sometimes in our favor. But as soon as we had to take a right hand turn, it was coming at us from the side. Another turn and it was a relentless headwind. You reached the point of not caring how you were going to reach Sandusky - just wanting the wind in your favor.

Finally reconnected with the original route outside of Castalia - just a few miles from Sandusky. Rosie and I stopped at a gas station - I ate my pb&j and she bought a coke. A common routine for us around 2pm. No longer running on vapors, we were ready for the final section.

Rode into Sandusky - and found the KOA campground near the Lake. Set up my tent, and then...both of us headed into town to find the library. I also wanted to see the Lake and check out ferry options to Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island) where my dad used to vacation as a child. Rosie went into the library and I went down to the waterfront. It was after 4 by then, and I just didn't feel that there was time enough to take the 5pm ferry and get back by 7 or so, and then ride back to camp. Took some photos and joined Rosie at the library. After using up our alloted hour at the computers (cost of $1), we meandered back towards camp. Stopped at Jack's Deli out on Highway 6, for pizza and beer. Then returned to the Big Ride tent village for the night.

Trains

There is a train track less than a block away from one of the borders of this KOA campground. Trains must have rolled down that line every 20 minutes or so during the night. How can campers possibly find this restful (unless they have a train running through their backyard at home)? It is still hard for me to ignore the rumbling, the whistles, the clanging. When I mentioned my challenges with being so close to trains, Darrell quietly shared some wisdom: when your route parallels the tracks, you can be assured that it will be on a very gentle grade. A small concession to the iron goat of sleep deprivation.

Day 37 - July 29th - Kendallville IN to Napoleon OH

2008-07-30T13:41:00.001-07:00

(photos: early morning barn view; state line - as good as it gets on a county road system; afternoon barn; court house in downtown Napoleon)

Members of the Kendallville Parks and Rec dept prepared breakfast for us at a pavilion in the campground. Pancakes were on the griddle at 6. Juice, coffee, eggs and bacon were also on the menu. Nice to have a change from our standard morning camp fare. It took awhile for everyone to show up as some watches and alarms hadn't been adjusted for the hour time change that bopped us on the head at the end of the ride yesterday.

I left camp a bit before 7. Nice rollers in the early morning air. A bit of fog for the first 20 miles - but more picturesque than concealing. Stopped in Butler for some oatmeal and coffee at a local cafe. I was halfway through my bowl when a clutch of other Riders showed up, doubling the occupancy of the place within minutes. About 5 miles outside of town, I encounted a very low-profile state-line indicator. No big Welcome To or Sorry You're Leaving signs out here on County Road 28.

In the next town of Bryan (mile 40),. I ran into Tracy and Rosie. They were snacking in the sun at the local Walgreen's. Cliff rode up within a few minutes. He mentioned word of a coffee shop that was a few blocks away - but he wanted to move on to the upcoming noted check point. However, the three of us, when hearing "coffee", had to go down the alley to investigate. A fine place it was - complete with religious undertones (poster and pamphlets). No matter. I ordered a tasty grilled sandwich and a V-8 for lunch. Rosie and Tracy went straight to the coffee. We had a great time there, and were even approached by a local retired teacher who gave us a donation to ALA after hearing about our intentions. When we re-emerged into the bright noon-day sun, we were immediately reminded of what non air-conditioned air feels like. It was hot! Putting-your-hand-in-the-clothes-dryer-at-the-end-of-the-Cottons-and-Heavy-Towels-cycle hot.

Rode on to the lunch stop check point. Not too compelled to make a sandwich - just wanted to keep going. The three of us continued over mostly flat rural roads. Arrived in Napoleon early afternoon. On our way through town, we passed a noted soft-serve ice cream establishment. Several Riders were already seated at the outdoor tables enjoying a treat. We joined them in the shade. I was getting antsy to get into camp so finished my orange slush and took off before the others. The final route segment followed the Maumee river and deposited me right at the Henry County Fairgrounds. It was still quite hot out, so I set up my tent to dry out. Grabbed my journal and rode into town to search for the local library. Found it - just within a few blocks of the eye-catching courthouse building. I asked a librarian where I might find some postcards of the area. She did some brainstorming, and then posed the question to some of her associates. Within a few minutes, calls were being made to various shops around town, the Wal-Mart, and the Chamber of Commerce. The Chamber apparently had a few in stock and would stay open a few minutes past closing if needed. I thanked the search team and rode over to the CofC. Bought a few cards from the sole person in the office - a bit terse, who gave no indication of receiving the call. Rode back to camp in time for dinner. Our facilities for the evening included use of an large open-ended building. It was nice to have a enclosed eating area - however, we had company. Not many mosquitoes here - but the flies made up for them in spades. For dinner, Sharon and others grilled skewers of vegetables and some chicken. The cooler had a large bottle of white wine - a refreshing libation at the end of a hot day. The night air was heavy and just a few points cooler than during the day. Made for a restless, damp night of fitful sleep.

Day 36 - July 28th - Valparaiso to Kendalville

2008-07-29T12:52:00.000-07:00

(photos: find Stephanie among the sunflowers; Loretta and her helpers; Regina and her Snickerdoodle cookies)

Breakfast was served at the dining hall starting at 6. It was a challenge for everyone to get there, and to pack the truck after a rest day. Didn't leave campus until 7:30. It was warm (mid 70's by 8:30), a bit hazy and humid. The day's route was mostly flat with gentle rollers in some sections. Rural settings, interspersed with small towns along highways 2 and 3. Rode with Rosie most of the day. The stated distance was long (110 miles) and I just decided to make a full day of it. Our destination was a campground in a small town - so no big rush. Better to enjoy the sights along the way.
In Lakeville (mile 47), I noticed a couple of outside of a small coffee shop to the right of a busy intersection. Saw Seattle's Best Coffee signs in the window. Bob and Kathleen had stopped and were enjoying ice cream (just 3 scoops for Bob) and a coffee drink (Kathleen). I went in, surveyed the options and ordered an espresso shake. What a great treat! The proprietress insisted that it be topped with whipped cream and drizzles of syrups. Well, if it would make YOU happy...
Rosie ordered a cold blended coffee drink - again, capped with calories. Quality refueling.
Stopped around mile 50 to make a sandwich at Mark's table - set up in a vacant lot. Didn't end up eating the pb&J until I reached camp. Too many other treats were coming up...

Around mile 61, we noticed an increased presence of Mennonite and Amish households/farms. Buggies on the road (or in driveways), work horses in small pastures, and orderly lines of simple clothing, flapping in the breeze on the clotheslines. We spied a small sign on the side of the road - Big Rider stop. Up ahead, Loretta Miller (a local Mennonite woman) along with 2 younger family members, had set up a table with homemade cookies, cold water, and ice cold milk. She was ready for us. All she asked in return was that we provide her with our names and addresses so that she could send us each a letter. "And you need to send me one back. That's all. Just one.". Gladly, just please pour me another cup of that cold milk.
Farther down the road, we noticed a sign - Spike's Woodworking. Rosie stopped to take a photo as she knows someone with that name. As soon as we pulled over, we noticed a little girl emerge for the house on the property, look at us, and run back inside. Shy one she was. But she quickly returned, running out to us with fresh snickerdoodle cookies in her hands - cookies that she had just made herself! We gratefully accepted them and asked if we could take her picture. Yes, that would be ok. Within a few minutes, Regina's entire family (2 sisters, a brother and her parents) had come out to the roadside to learn about our ride and to tell us a bit about themselves. We had a great time talking with them - and Doug and Patti rode up to see what was going on. A regular party!

Finally rolled into camp around 5 - but it was actually 6, as we had moved into another time zone.
Dinner was being prepared for us at a campsite pavilion by members of the Kendalville Park and Rec Dept. I quickly set up my tent, and went to eat dinner. Then took a shower and had a bit of leisure time in camp before it was time to crawl into the sack. A long day, but very enjoyable.

Day 35 - July 27th - layover day in Valparaiso, IN

2008-07-29T12:43:00.000-07:00

My but it was nice to get up leisurely. Went to breakfast at the Broadway Cafe (adjacent to campus) with Cliff, Bruce, Barb, Diana, and Darrell. A place similar to the original Rose's in Portland. Family restaurant, open 363 days a year, extensive menu, large portions. After breakfast, I walked to Walgreen's to pick up some more laundry soap, look for postcards (only found ones with photo of a rabbit with caption "Some Bunny in Valparaiso Loves You" - I passed), and a few lunch items (cheese sticks, V8 and crackers). Walked back to the dorm to doze and listen to music. After lunch, went to the Valpo U library. Beautiful building and wonderful facilities. Spent 3 1/2 hours reviewing photos and adding new posts. Finally emerged around 5:30 and went back to the dorm to clean off my bike. Dinner at the Broadway around 7. Clearly not much exploring on this rest day. My efforts to locate a pool had been futile. My left quad had been quite sore during the past few days. So it was probably best that I just stay within a tight radius.
Made a few phone calls today. It was enjoyable to hear familiar voices and get caught up on family and friend news.

Day 34 - July 26th - Coal City IL to Valparaiso IN

2008-07-27T12:25:00.002-07:00

(photos: supporting the aged; view of an out building; other buildings on the property -with guess what? a cornfield in the background)

Managed to sleep most of the night, in spite of campground revelers and humid air. Camp breakfast included a bit of levity, probably due to the fact that we were approaching a layover day. Several rowdy Riders were compelled to make lots of noise while eating breakfast, hoping to "give back" to our noisy neighbors.

Rode out of camp with Rosie. At times met up with others along the way. Both of us looked in vain for a decent coffee stop or cafe as we pedaled along. Morning miles were spent on gently rolling hills or flats, interspersed with small towns. First water stop at mile 25 was next to a cornfield. Sharon embellished the usual snack fare with bags of Hostess Donettes! I find myself eating all SORTS of things that I would ordinarily scoff. When you are hungry, you are famished.

Rode on to town of Beecher (43) where Rosie and I went to McD's for ice water, soda, and ok, just 3 of those small chocolate chip cookies please. Lunch stop (mile 50 or so) outside of Reichert's Tavern, in the shade of some large trees. Sam joined us for the next leg, which culminated at a stop at Subway around mile 70. What started as a stop for a restroom, turned into a "it's just a 6" snack" break. Rosie and Sam decided to take their time for the final segment: I just wanted to get it over with. I took off and put my all into it - though my left quad was starting to get sore. Took a wrong turn at an intersection but realized my mistake only a mile into it. Right Turn at the T? Left Turn? It DOES make a difference.
Arrived at the designated dorm on the campus of Valparaiso University a bit before 4pm. Gladly checked into my room, set up my tent outside to air, and started to create the Layover Day Laundry pile. Re-charged appliances, and went to dinner at 6. Ate gobs of food just trying to fill the void. It's a good thing that cycling clothes are stretchy!
Managed to get onto a computer in the dorm lab and tapped the keys (doesn't that burn calories too?) until nearly 11pm.

With clean clothes (and bed sheet), review of my email, and fully juiced electronics, I could sleep well. And did.

I've had several conversations with other Riders lately about the concept of miles, and the definition of our days. Initially, the daily mileage on the cue sheet had a one-dimensional meaning: 60 miles - hmm, kind of like a training ride. Or, 100 miles - wow, I haven't done a century in a long time.
But we've come to find that our daily experience is defined by additional variables as well. The stated distance is but one factor. Others (of little or no concern to those traveling in vehicles) include:

temperature range during the day
wind - is it working for you or against you; does it change directions when you do?
grade of the road - 100 miles on the level is quite different than 100 miles of rollers that remind you of ocean swells
humidity level (including threat of rain or dramatic storms)
road surface (the ones so far in Indiana are pitted, patched and unpredictable)
presence (or lack) of shoulder - if no shoulder, do drivers skirt you or drive within inches of your handlebars?
condition of shoulder (clean, or littered with broken glass, minimized by presence of a rumble strip?)
food and drink ingested prior and during (in remote areas, this is limited to what you carry on the bike)
unexpected problems with mechanics of bike - what IS that clicking noise?
unanticipated problems with mechanics of rider - oh my aching kneecap

Whoever said that riding a bike was simple?

Day 33 - July 25th - Belvidere to Coal City

2008-07-27T12:25:00.001-07:00

(photos: my daily pb&j doing a balancing act in a corn field; fellow Riders preparing their own sandwiches; comparing our height to that of the local crop; end of the day gabbing)

Up early for a good camp breakfast. Jim - who had scurried home for a night with his family - showed up bearing 3 boxes of fresh doughnuts. Early birds get the best ones. Packed up my tent and gear promptly, and checked around to make sure that I didn't leave anything behind. Nearly forgot my camelbak (for the 2nd day in a row). Rode out of camp with Janet, Rosie, Diana and Barb. Covered the first 30 miles of the day with them. In Malta (30), checked in at the water stop and then joined Jim and others at an adjacent cafe for some french toast. According to the meanu, loganberries were an optional addition. Yes please! But what was presented in a small cup next to the french toast was something that tasted very much like cranberry relish. Oh well. Fruit of some kind all the same.

Rode on to the lunch stop (around mile 50) with Jim, Doug, Brendan and Tony. How creative of Sharon to set up the table right next to, of all things, a cornfield. In fact, the truck was parked just off an intersection - and cornfields came to a point at all four corners. Made a sandwich to eat on the way, and left in the company of Janet, Rosie and Barb. A good part of this next section was basically flat - we were almost always bordered by fields of corn or soybeans. The sun broke through the morning haze, and it started to get hot. Our energy and sense of humor was being sorely tested. We stopped at around mile 75, under the shade of a large tree. Ate what we had, and assessed our water situation. Glad to find Nick at mile 80 with large containers of water and a laid-back attitude. Upon pulling out of that water stop, my determination was renewed. Barb mentioned that the next stop she wanted to make was our destination - where she could finally take off her bike shoes. I adopted this goal as my own and pulsed along the road. Where I found the energy (only some of it could have come from a 1/2 package of peanut M&M's which I quickly ate at a red light) is a mystery to me. The humidity in the air was like a damp towel that I couldn't shake off. But Barb and I pushed on. We finally arrived at the Coal City Area Club (weekend hangout for camp-loving locals), with Rosie and Janet close behind.

Sharon had set out some cheese and crackers, and out of the back of the truck, someone found a couple bottles of wine. Let me tell you - when you are dehydrated, you only need but one plastic cup of vino to forget the tedious aspects of the day! Dinner was prepared and served by a local catering group. They were astonished by how much, and how quickly we gobbled up pounds of pasta, and loaves of toasted garlic bread. As soon as they replenished the serving dishes, hungry Riders were lined up to empty them.

Returned to my tent to prepare for sleep. The air was very heavy and still. I retrieved a small paper plate from the back of the truck to use as a simply hand-fan. The inside of my zipped up tent felt like a steamroom. The ciciadas were VERY loud and their noise nearly drowned out the ruckas of the inhebriated campers parked just down the lane. What a day. What a night.

Expressions of Infinity

2008-07-26T20:47:00.000-07:00

Day 32 - July 24th - Madison WI to Belvidere IL

2008-07-26T20:36:00.001-07:00

(photos: bluebird box on fence post in blooming prairie at Lake Farm Park; house in Evansville; welcome sign in Beloit)

Woke up early at the hotel, but it didn't take long to pack. We ate the breakfast provided by the Holiday Inn and drove back to the campsite in time to grab a cue sheet. Another century day - 100 miles. The route was filled with twists and turns - the longest straight segment being just 9 miles. Outside the Madison city limits, I spied a McDonald's. Went inside to use the restroom and to pack my camelbak with ice and water. That done, I felt set for the day - or at least a big portion of it.

Reached Evansville (mile 40) and took a few photos of the well-kept homes. Nice town. Thought about a 2nd breakfast but didn't see a spot that lured me in and so decided to go on. Reached Orfordville to find that a couple of Big Rider alums (Bob and Liz) had set up a rest stop of us. Coffee, pastries, fresh fruit and other treats were spread out on several tables at a local park. Thanks for being there for us!

Rode on to Beloit, crossed the state line, and found our rest stop outside the Boys and Girls Club in South Beloit. Met up with Chuck there. The two of us packed our sandwiches and headed out. Directions on the cue sheet failed around the 80 mile mark. We asked for help from a local who was driving by and got us back on course. But we were running on vapors by this point. Lurched into Garden Prairie. Our only food option appeared to be the Prairie Pub. Parked the bikes and went inside. Nearly pitch dark (oh - maybe I should take off my sunglasses). The place was empty of customers - 'cept for us. The woman behind the bar gladly served us ice water, then sodas, then hamburgers. We had simply waited too long on this hot day of riding to take in some calories. The stop really made a difference - allowing us to get back on the road and ride at a respectable pace. Made it to the campsite - Outdoor World! - by mid-afternoon. Unfortunately, the gear truck was undergoing repairs and didn't show until 5:30.

Carlos, Sandy and Chona Frum drove all the way from Northbrook to take me to dinner. They arrived in the wake of the gear truck and kindly offered to pitch my tent while I showered. We then left Outdoor World for the expanse and dining options of greater Belvidere and Rockford. Had a fine time eating, talking about the Ride and catching up on family news. Enjoyed a treat at Culver's and all too soon it was time to say our goodbyes and for me to return to the World of the Big Ride.

Discovered laundry facilities and did a load to stretch my supply of clean clothes. Crawled into my fabric abode around 10pm, to rest up for the next day's century ride - the third of three in as many days.

Day 31 - July 23rd - Viroqua to Madison

2008-07-26T19:51:00.001-07:00

(photos: friends along the roadside; produce seller)

Up very early due to a high-mileage day (110). Camp breakfast as usual. Sharon Cowdery arrived last night to lend her skills and talents to the crew staff. We are all delighted to have her in our midst.
Left the campground around 6:30. Road construction in town created a few orientation challenges, but we made our way to the highway after obtaining new directions from a local. The morning air was wonderful as usual, and a thick fog enveloped us as we rode down into a valley. It almost felt as though a cool blanket was caressing my legs (perhaps it's time to get them waxed?). Descents and climbs over hill and dale. The fog eventually lifted to reveal blue skies. What a joy to ride in such surroundings and with such good conditions. Arrived in Richland Center around 9:30 and felt the need to refuel. Saw a couple of familiar bikes against the outside of a local cafe. Spied Tony and Brendon inside and went in to join them. A short stack and some juice were just the ticket. And I requested several glasses of ice water to fill my camelbak. Tony and Brendon departed, and other Riders came in the door within minutes. We simply used the one booth and swapped out seats. As I took off, someone else came in. Must have been an interesting sight for the other diners.

Continued out of town on Highway 14. I hadn't gone to far when I noticed a produce stand located up on the hillside of a roadside farm. I pedaled down the highway and then reconsidered. This is what the Ride is about: being There. I backtracked back to the driveway and rode up to the stand. A sweet young girl was there, more than willing to point out what was available. I asked her about the peaches. She assured me that they were ripe and quite good. I tried one at her suggestion - the juice ran down my arm faster than I could keep up with it. She charged me only 25 cents for the experience. Too good a deal. Bought and ate another. My presence was noticed by another Rider - Jim - who rode up the hill. He soon was engaged in hearing about the options from the young saleswoman...I hope that others stopped as well.
The route at this point was flat and hot. Continued on to the lunch stop check point at mile 52. Made and packed a sandwich. Jim caught up with me. And we encountered Patti at well. The three of us road together, off and on, for awhile. Pulled over to a gas station around mile 75 to eat my sandwich, and drink some cold apple juice. The remaining miles of the day seemed to take an inordinate amount of time. More hills came into play. Up and down. Drink and pant. Checking the cue sheet to make sure of the route. By this point, Patti and I were riding together. We carefully manoevered our way through Madison given the multitude of directions. It was not fun to be back among the density of cars and trucks in a suburban setting. Traffic lights - what a drag. We finally made it to Lake Farm Park. Sharon was there with the truck and all bags had been unloaded. She set out some great snacks including italian ice cups.
The campsite was in a lovely setting - and the park is only 4-5 miles (mostly on a bike path) from the heart of Madison. But a midwest park, near a lake, in the summer is the perfect combination for mosquitoes. And even at 4pm, they were ever-present, each with an appetite to match mine. Fortunately, I had made a reservation at a local Holiday Inn at Barb's suggestion. She had been riding our route with some Wisconsin friends for the past couple of days and they all had rooms at the Holiday Inn for the evening. Judy and Scott also had a vehicle for transporting me and my bags (and eventually Janet and Diana as well) to a bug-free hotel room. I left my bike at the park and jumped into their van. Wow - at check-in, I was told of complementary refreshments in the lounge, and also found a mini business center with an idling computer.
Janet and Diana got a lift over to the hotel a bit later on and all of us were glad for the break.

Several of us were talking about the concept of time, and how it changes when you are immersed in an event such as the Big Ride. Each day we eagerly collect our cue sheet and set out. Our day unfolds in miles, and is interspersed with stops - both scheduled and spontaneous. Our intention each day is to reach our destination by the end of the afternoon. We might look at a watch or clock, or might not. But time is no longer a reference point in our lives.
Most Riders are not seeking out national or local news, or referring to calendars. Sometimes it is a challenge (or even seems annoying) to try to figure out what day or date it is. Our former roles (e.g. spouse, sibling, parent, co-worker) have faded into the background. We ride. We eat. We shower. We eat. We sit and chat. And eventually we sleep. And then it starts all over again. It is what we do.
Loping across the country is our occupation.

Day 30 - July 22nd - Winona, MN to Viroqua, WI

2008-07-22T17:38:00.001-07:00

(photos: Myers family; photo of ladder and flower in Myers' garden; Janet at the Welcome sign; view of a farm; another farm view - laundry on the line; sign for the Amish bakery; old theater sign in Viroqua)

Leisurely rising this morning: only 66 miles to go. My trip to the library yesterday afternoon turned out to have an extra benefit - I was able to show a string a Riders behind me, a shortcut out of town. We then rode for several miles near the Mississippi river, on Hwy 61; but the experience was sullied by the lanes of traffic between us (on the far shoulder) and the zooming, morning commuters. Janet and I were riding together - and ended up doing so for the entire day - with the hope that she could share some of her bird wisdom with me. This segment, near the river, was so noisy with traffic, we wouldn't have heard a bird if it had been perched on our shoulders. Finally got to exit the roar around mile 17, and wound through the pretty town of Dakota. We had been told that the Myers family had once again, set up a fabulous spread for us. They had done this favor for Big Riders for several consecutive years now. Home-baked treats, punch, coffee, and other delights - including tours of their extensive, lovingly-cared-for garden. Thank you to the Myers family for making this section of the ride so special!

Rode out of Dakota, and eventually onto a long-forgotten bike path. Though littered with twigs and rocks, it provided some birding opportunities. Saw a Cedar Waxwing. Soon after the path ended, we cruised through La Crescent (on the MN side) and over to La Crosse. The bridge into town was littered with what looked like leaf debris. Turns out that there had been a recent onslaught of mayflies! The daily paper had a photo on the front page of a car dealer sweeping the dead bugs off of the windshields of cars on his lot.

Out of La Crosse, we gravitated over to Hwy 35, adjacent to the mighty River. Much of the area had been designated as a wildlife refuge and was beautiful to view under sunny skies. Stopped in the small town of Stoddard for the lunch check point, and also found a cafe open that served decent french dip sandwiches. With this fortification, we pedaled on up into a scenic valley, and farther up to some rolling hills surrounded by farmland. Some of the farms are owned by Amish families and we saw a couple of buggies moving down the road, confirming that cue sheet note. I noticed a sign for a Country Bakery and couldn't resist. Janet and I slowly maneuvered our bikes down the gravel driveway which ended at the home of an Amish family. One of the daughters escorted us to an out-building that had shelves filled with baked goods, confections, jams, and greeting cards. Crafts hung on the walls. What a find! We made some purchases and quietly got onto our bikes, respectively riding back to the main road. I was so glad that we had stopped - even if I didn't end up buying typical bakery fare.

Eventually rode down from the ridge into the town of Viroqua. Another pleasant surprise: facing the main street into town was a modern Food Cooperative. We had to slip inside to see what they had on hand - even before getting to camp. It was as though a Puget Consumer Co-op store had been plunked down, right in the middle of rural Wisconsin! We picked up yogurt, milk, produce and other items that we had forgotten existed. Had ourselves a fine snacking moment outside the store. Then went to the Fairgrounds (a.k.a. the town's designated camping spot) to settle in. After showering, I walked back through town to the library to post some notes.

Dinner in camp. Doug's birthday. Wound down for the night.

Day 29 - July 21st - Owatonna to Winona

2008-07-22T17:37:00.000-07:00

(photos: Rochester lemonade stand; church message; sign in the community of Eyota; a sweeping view of a cornfield; church spire in Winona)

While packing up this morning, we were treated to a wonderful pink and baby blue dawn sky. It made some of us stop in our tracks to watch the colors change. Camp breakfast was just a bit finer this morning due to the 24-hour grocery store across the street. There was yogurt, cheese sticks, and doughnut holes! Long live the Hy-Vee store! Tried out of the new press pot and it worked well.

More coffee for more Riders is always deemed a success.

Loaded the truck and left town by 7. A 90 mile day ahead. Just short of Rochester, we were feted at a special rest stop set up by Ane, Liz, Ben and Tom - Big Riders from 2007. They had quite a feast set out for us: fresh fruit galore, coffee, doughnuts, and best of all - homemade cookies! We took turns sitting in the shade under the canopy that they had set up - talking about their Ride experiences and comparing them to those that we were accumulating. Thanks Alums! I hope that some of us can do the same for the 2009 Big Riders.

After enjoying the treats at the Alum stop, I pedaled on in to Rochester. Met up with Jim, Ed and a few others. On our way through town, winding through a neighborhood, Ed spied a lemonade stand. Nearly all of us stopped to enjoy a refreshing drink. The kids were so pleased to have a crowd, and they called out to their mom to "make more"!

Though Rochester isn't an enormous city, I was more than glad to leave it (and the multitude of medical buildings and related lodging options) behind. Back to the farm for me.

Miles and miles of corn, soybeans, and more corn. Passed an ethanol plant, surrounded of course by corn fields. Some residents in Eyota had posted a sign in their yard stating their opinion about this use of corn.

At mile 55, or there abouts, I had been asked to write a message with chalk on the shoulder for upcoming Riders: Big Ride 2000 mile mark. Quite an accomplishment.

Continued on through Lewiston and Stockton and eventually reached the outskirts of Winona. Had to travel a few miles along a busy stretch of road that was peppered with fast food restaurants and the like. Per the cue sheet, took a left turn and crossed over to the island that is the core of Winona.

Had to take a somewhat circuitous route to the dorm on the West campus of Winona State. Got settled, showered and headed into town on foot in search of the library. This is almost always a good way to stretch my legs and get oriented to the town. And a chance to record the day's events.

Dinner at a dining hall adjacent to the dorm. Ate lots - chicken teriyaki and rice, more of that, salad, rice krispy bars, then a couple of bowls and cereal and glasses of milk. Mmmm.

The dorm had laundry facilities in the basement - oh joy! The one element of my past life that I have yet to shed: my role as a laundress.

Much of the road today was marred by road seams. The regularity of these ker-thump uneven junctions was quite the ker-thump annoyance. Such constant jarring ker-thump became tiresome - especially on ker-thump down-hill sections. You get to wondering how ker-thump long your wheels will put up with ker-thump such jolting. And your weary backside ker-thump feels that such treatment just adds ker-thump insult to injury. I stood up on my pedals for parts of these ker-thump segments of the route. (And I recalled the experience of posting on a trotting horse from when I took horseback riding lessons). My quads are now very strong and can put up with almost anything I ker-thump throw at them. But I could sure do without road seams.

Day 28 - July 20th - New Ulm to Owatonna

2008-07-21T14:08:00.000-07:00

(photos: peacock at Schell Brewery, birdbath garden at same; general view of farmlands, Minnesota wetlands)

Packed up the dorm room and went to the Student Union for breakfast. I've been especially hungry the past few days. This morning was no different: I gobbled up some eggs, hashed browns, juice, coffee, 2 bowls of cereal and 1/2 a toasted bagel. That should fuel me until mid-morning.

Loaded bags onto the truck and headed out of town. Because yesterday's storm prevented me from taking any photos at the brewery, I decided to take a short detour to see what I could capture in the early morning light. The grounds were very quiet, populated only by a a few peacocks. Nice time to visit!

Left the birds and beer and rejoined the route.

This morning, there was dense and very, very humid fog. It made it necessary for me to wipe off my lenses every few minutes. Drops of condensation dripped from my helmet. One solitary drop swayed on the lower rim of my little helmet mirror for the longest time.

Spent the day on Highway 14 East. Rode a short time with Jim, Reuben, and Doug. Reached Mankato (mile 25) and enjoyed the route through some of the older parts of town. Nice old stone buildings. The cue sheet then noted a right turn, directly up to a ridge and along a busy road intersecting a depressingly long string of malls and assorted clusters of national chain stores and restaurants. America at its worst. For miles and miles. Toward the tail end of this 15 minute-long commercial, I spied a Caribou coffee store. Stopped in to try out their product. Enjoyed a decent latte. Watched other riders cruise by, glancing at the building. I'm sure they knew it was my bike leaning against the outside wall. Finished the cup and was glad to see that the Malling of Mankato had come to and end. The route led back to the countryside, adjacent to wetlands, and corn fields.

Reached Waseca, where a check point and lunch stop had been set up next to a public park. A ball game was in full swing (no pun intended), and I glanced across the street to see a classic view of an expansive Minnesota lake. Baseball or boating - take your pick. Made and ate my sandwich right there. Returned to the route for the concluding 15 miles into Owatonna. Rode through new, and older parts of town, skirting the downtown (and National Bank building which I only learned later was worth a detour), and eventually located our campsite on the Steele County Fairgrounds.

"Fairgrounds" is a very general description and can be interpreted in lots of ways - would we be sleeping across from the 4-H poultry barn, horse stables, grandstand? Turns out that we were assigned to a tidy little triangle of grass just outside the hockey complex. It was buffered by buildings on most side, and only a hop skip and a jump across a busy street to a large, 24-hour grocery store. Not bad.

We had been joined on the route today by Vern, an Owatonna cyclist, and Big Rider from 2007. He and his wife Karen purchased some local corn for us to enjoy at dinner, and they secured improved shower facilities than were available last year. Kudos to the two of you - thanks for making us feel so welcome!

When our group passes through a small town - especially at an hour that could be interpreted as meal time - you can see bikes parked outside a variety of establishments: gas stations (Riders probably just using restrooms), cafes, diners, espresso stands. Walk in/up, and you will know half the people there. You can ask what they've ordered or if they know what's good. It's as though your are a local!

Once we've settled into a town for the afternoon/evening, you can go into the public library and you'll probably find a Rider at a terminal. Other Riders trickle out of the grocery store. Some are at the local watering hole. We tend to permeat our destinations. And then just as quickly, move on to the next community.

Day 27 - July 19th - layover day in New Ulm

2008-07-21T13:44:00.000-07:00

(photos: New Ulm at dusk as seen from the Tower at our dorm; friends Katie and Rick)

Layover days always fly by, and this one went exceptionally fast. Last night, I managed to figure out when/where I could go swimming. So, first-thing this morning, I trotted down the hill from MLC to Steinhauser Field House to swim some laps. They had lanes set aside for such from 7-9am. The water felt great and there were only 2 other people in the pool - one of whom was simply doing water walking. The pool was very large: lap lanes were set up on the shorter side of the rectangle.

Went back up the hill - under cloudy skies. In fact it was sprinkling at times. Walked to the main parking lot and saw a car with bike in the roof rack, drive right in. My ACA (Adventure Cycling Association) friend Marty emerged to say "Hi Liz!". He was on a road trip to the upper peninsula of Michigan (and beyond), and knew from my blog that I'd be in town on the 19th. It was a wonderful surprise to see him. At the same moment, my friend Carolyn from Mpls was already in the parking lot waiting for me to jump into her car and go to breakfast. After chatting with Marty for a few minutes, he got back into his Prius and continued on his way. Carolyn and I then drove downtown to the Ulmer Cafe for breakfast. Standard fare, but a very satisfying chunk of time to exchange personal news, talk about the ride, and also her upcoming family vacation to the east coast. Carolyn brought me a fantastic press pot from REI that her husband J had picked up per my request. It is sizable, sturdy, and I know it will be a big hit at the next camp breakfast.

We finally gave up our table after a couple of hours at the Ulmer, and drove around town looking at neighborhoods and such. We also made a stop at Walgreen's so that I could purchase some items to help with the Big Ride camp coffee operation. The new press pot deserves a protective box all its own, as well as soap and towels for cleaning it.

Carolyn dropped me back off at the dorm in time for me to meet up with Chuck and Elizabeth (friends from Mpls), who had driven down to have lunch with me. We went to the Kasierhoff and had a very good time catching up, talking about the ride, etc. At 1:30, Katie and Rick (former neighbors from 18th Ave) phoned to say that they had arrived in downtown New Ulm. They joined us at the restaurant and the 5 of us talked for awhile.

We split up, late afternoon, and Katie and Rick drove me over to the Schell brewery so that I could see this local landmark. However, the weather had different plans. A thunderstorm that had been bottled up all day - while I was busy inside various restaurants - broke open. It was an intense show - thunder, lightening, and buckets of rain that poured down and rushed through the streets. Water was several inches deep in places. Katie referred to it as a "real gully-washer". No chance to take any photos on the grounds of the brewery. But we were content to wander around the museum and passed up the hour-long tour. We left the brewery in a downpour and Rick and Katie drove me back to MLC. Before departing, they presented me with 2 wonderful gifts: a bottle of August Schell Pale Ale and an oversized pint of fresh raspberries picked from canes in their yard just that morning. And I had thought that I'd miss out on fresh raspberries all together (the fruit on my home canes having been enjoyed by family and neighbors in my absence). What a rare treat!

I walked back to my dorm room to gather my thoughts and was met by Diana who was on her way out to dinner with Barb and Janet - along with a couple of Janet's friends from Taylor's Falls. We drove to the Lamplighter in downtown, had a filling, early evening meal, and then I finally made it back to my room to decompress.

What a day.

Spent a few minutes in the evening phoning Peter (his birthday today), David, my parents, and a couple of RedSpoke contacts. Tim told me that the ride this year has nearly 100 participants and is going well. I hope to be back in the fold in '09. The Big Ride will certainly give it a new perspective.

Friendly Farm Image - bye bye from South Dakota

2008-07-19T18:30:00.000-07:00

I really like this photo of some farmland silhouettes that I saw near the South Dakota-Minnesota border. It deserves a post all of its own!

Day 26 - July 18th - Tyler to New Ulm

2008-07-19T17:59:00.001-07:00

Up at 5 or so. Cool morning air, with some fog on the athletic field. Camp breakfast at the truck. Riders were in a light-hearted mood, perhaps due to the upcoming layover day, or that fact that we had fewer than 90 miles (only 87) to cover.
Left town and the fog became more dense. It was truly important to be wearing bright colors in such conditions, and to have a flashing rear light. Visibility was 15 feet at best in spots and traffic, though light, was present even at 7am.
Rode with Rosie most of the day. We stopped in the small town of Tracy to take photos at a train/prairie themed roadside display. Wanted some good coffee and perhaps a short stack, but decided to move along and hope for good options in Walnut Grove, 8 miles farther down the road. (Yes, we are in Laura Ingalls Wilder land. Passed Plum Creek somewhere along here).
Pulled up at Nellie's Cafe in Walnut Grove and stepped inside to refuel. Ordered pancakes and coffee. The former was fine, and latter probably the worst on our trip so far. But the company couldn't have been better. We were joined at the table by a local fellow - Dave Bowmann - who proceeded to share personal stories and other bits with us: his birthdate, a humorous poem to share with other Riders, a poem that he had written in memory of his wife (who passed away 3 years ago), his past occupations, etc. Dave made our visit a treat. On our way out of the cafe, Rosie asked to take photos of some local guys at the counter (all of 'em scandinavians, per Dave), as well of June - our memorable waitress. A key part of this journey is taking time to chat with the locals - to better understand what's growing in the fields, what's cooking in town, and who sits at the counter. Perkins be damned.
Rode on to Lamberton, where Nick had set up the sandwich table. Slapped together the daily bread. Janet was just taking off and joined us for some afternoon miles. Bit of a headwind for the next 30 miles, but we worked together to get through to Sleepy Eye. There, Rosie opted to take a break. Janet pulled me for this last 16 miles and we finally arrived at the Martin Luther College campus just before my feet gave out. Ouch, ouch, ouch.
The weather was warm, but not too hot. Just right for setting up my tent to dry out a bit. The laundry facilities in the dorm were unavailable, so I trudged down the hill to the heart of downtown to get a couple of loads done. Even washed my very pungent non-cycling shoes. Did not bring back-up footwear so was confined to the laundromat for the better part of an hour. Returned to campus in time for a delicious dinner at the Student Union. Stir-fried chicken and vegetables. I ate an embarrasing amount of it, along with 2 bowls of chocolate pudding. And drank several glasses of cran-apple juice. Thought I would pop.
Spent the remainder of the evening plotting out my layover day - how to fit in a swim, coordinating visits from Minnesota friends/neighbors, etc.
The first evening is the best part of a layover day - especially that moment when you know that all of your clothes are clean and your appetite sated. Tomorrow will go by SOOOOO fast.

Day 25 - July 17th - De Smet to Tyler, MN.

2008-07-18T17:36:00.000-07:00

Woke up a couple of times in the night to hear a bit of rain. But no big dramatic storm. Got up around 5 or so. These days, it's still somewhat dark at that hour. Riders are stumbling around camp with their headlamps on, trying to recall where the bathroom in THIS camping spot is located. Though it had rained during the night, the grass was dry and the air warm. However, as the sky lightened, you could see large clouds on the horizon. I packed up my tent and gear bag, put them on the truck, and went to have breakfast at the church adjacent to the park. Very simple fare: dry cereal, some muffins, juice, and church urn coffee. As I sat down to eat, Ash pointed up at one of the daylight windows. You could see tree branches waving in the wind, and imagine the accompanying downpour. Occasional flashes of lightening brightened the room. Our location, deep in a dank basement space, effectively muffled thunder claps. Late-rising Riders joined us, dripping from the heavy rain. Oh well. Only 76 miles today. We could hang out for another 20 minutes or so. Someone jokingly asked if there was a Bingo board available to use.

After waiting out the storm for a bit, I decided to give it a go. Put on my tyvek jacket, a rain cover on my handlebar bag, and pedaled out of town. Today, I needed to do my best to take some final photos of South Dakota to make up for loss at the library of other SD images.
The rain had eased up but it was still drizzling for awhile. First rainy morning that I could remember on the trip. Took my time, waiting for the skies to clear and photo opps to become available. After swinging by the check point in Brookings (mile 40), I took a short detour into the local business district to see if I could find a good breakfast cafe. The main street was all torn up, with construction machinery in full action. I skirted the mess to rejoin the district a few blocks down. Found a drug store, bead shop, scrapbook store. Everything but breakfast. Saw a couple of people coming out of a small bookstore, so I asked them where I could find a good meal. They first suggested the Cook's Kitchen, just down the block. But then recalled that it was in the throes of a remodel. So they mentioned the Cottonwood Bistro "just down 6th on your way out of town. You can't miss it." Worrisome words - "you can't miss it". Just watch me.
Took 6th out of town. Had to ask one other person - sitting in a parked car reading a book outside of a closed Dairy Queen - about said Bistro. With her directions, I found the spot. In the process, I was passed by a wave or Riders - going in the opposite direction - headed to Perkins for breakfast. Hmmm. Should I join them, or check out the Bistro? Took the local option. The Bistro was great! A tidy, contemporary, coffeehouse. Enjoyed a delicious almond croissant, 3-shot latte, and a couple of scrambled eggs. Before leaving, I asked the barista if he would put a few scoops of ice into my camelbak and fill it with water. He hadn't seen one of the devices before but was glad to help out. Now that I had a real breakfast under my belt, I could dive into the next stage of the route. By that point, the weather had improved. Gladly shed my jacket and got ready for some pleasant miles. Rode and took pictures of the countryside. Saw a sign "U-Pick Strawberries - Last day of picking Today". Don't know why, but I had never associated strawberries with South Dakota. I gingerly rode down the gravel driveway and met the property owner - a lovely woman who looked a bit like Susan Sarandon. She welcomed me to the farm and suggested that I ride out to the edge of the 2 acre field to try out some of the last fruits of the season. She mentioned how pleased she was with the rain that came last night - "our first measurable rain in 22 days". Mine too. People were picking in earnest, and there were a couple of young children playing with two 7-week old kittens. Took some pictures and sampled a few berries and then continued on my route.
Right at the South Dakota-Minnesota border, there was a wind farm. The setting was dramatically different than one that we had passed in eastern Washington, high on a dry ridge near Vantage. These turbines popped up amidst green fields of waist-high corn. A farm within a farm. Perhaps another source of income.
Crossed the border into Minnesota - land of 10,000 lakes. Saw Joe and Catie hanging out there and took a photo. Another 13 miles or so and I arrived in Tyler. Found the school grounds and the gear truck - but no one else was around to help unload. Rode back through town and located what else? The library. Checked my email and was welcomed by one of the staff who let me know that the drinking fountain just outside the door - in the lobby shared with City Hall - had wonderful cold water. Guess I looked thirsty.
Back to the school. Set up camp. Showered and went back to main street. I stopped by the grocery and bought some yogurt and an apple. Scarfed down the yogurt and then found a town bench where I sat and ate the Braeburn. A (local I presume) woman walked past and said to me "How nice to see someone sitting on that bench eating an apple instead of smoking a cigarette". Couldn't agree with her more. There are lots more apples in the store. People should give 'em a try!
Group dinner at the Pizza Ranch in town. Then time in camp spent reading the local paper, checking the AAA map of Minnesota, and cleaning off my bike. Listened to some music on my iPod, did some reading and went to sleep.

Day 24 - July 16th - Miller to De Smet

2008-07-17T14:11:00.000-07:00

Sleeping in the Miller High School gym simplified the camping element, but I have to admit that the air was a bit stuffy. Packed up my stuff, loaded it on the truck and joined the camp breakfast at the truck. Another coffee press pot had been broken, so we are now down to just one. Perhaps we can pick up another one in Minnesota. I'm told that there is an REI near Mpls. Some Riders are going up there during our New Ulm rest day. Maybe someone can pick up a replacement.

Had a very enjoyable ride in a loose draft pack with Rosie, Janet, Tracy, and Diana. After riding by myself all day yesterday, I decided to find a tribe for awhile. We had a really good time together.
The landscape offered a few more contours that what I saw yesterday. But the road itself was fairly level for the whole route to De Smet. Gentle tailwinds at times made the miles fly by. Had a water stop at mile 15 in Wessington. And a check point in Huron - a sizable community. Directly across the street from the check point (where we also made our daily sandwich), was a street named Midway. As this day is our "midway" of the Ride - in days, and I believe in miles - it was very appropriate to take a group shot by the sign. (Thanks to Rosie for sharing one that I'll post in a day or two).
I was craving pancakes at this point. The others agreed that it wouldn't hurt to find a restaurant. Rode through town, but didn't see much in the way of a cafe. On the outskirts, we stopped at a gas station and the nice attendant redirected us about a mile back to The Plains restaurant. It was easy to spot as its parking lot was home to the World's Largest Pheasant. Went in and found seats in the cafe - just diagonally across from the complex's bowling lanes (?!?). Patty was our waitress and did a fine job. Turns out that she is originally from Chicago, not far from Rosie's old neighborhood. Enjoyed a short stack, some eggs, and "coffee".
Left Huron and started in on the final 25 miles. With about 15 miles remaining, my legs just had to push and I moved away from the group. Did my best to hammer out the final stretch and appease my limbs.
Arrived in De Smet by mid-afternoon. Nice city park for our campsite. Warm, steady breezes. Found the local library and spent over an hour trying to upload photos. Inadvertently deleted all photos from my camera. Good lesson: COPY the file - don't just move it to the desktop. Fortunately, David had saved all shots up to Rapid City on his computer as well as on a disk. But I did lose ones that I had taken since then and hadn't posted. Oh well. Will need to take plenty tomorrow to prove that I did indeed ride through South Dakota.

Dinner was served to us in the basement of a church adjacent to the park. Returned to the campsite to find that I had a flat. Spent some time diagnosing the cause, and fixing it with help from Ash and Nick. Wrote and talked with Rosie for awhile. Word spread that we should expect a thunderstorm during the night so I guyed out the rainfly. Went to bed and waited for the storm.

The other day when Tony and I were riding together, he asked me for ideas for good lunch items to offer cyclists. (He will be organizing the mid-day meal for a sizable organized ride in Pennsylvania next year). We did some good brainstorming about what tastes good when you're riding all day. Rice and beans. Grilled cheese sandwiches. Steamed red potatoes and seasoning salt. Fruit - including bananas of course. Chips or pretzels - something crunchy with salt. Lots of cold drinks. Salads - but nothing too heavily seasoned or fiber-ful.
Maybe skip PB&J sandwiches.

Day 23 - July 15th - Pierre to Miller

2008-07-17T13:44:00.000-07:00

The day started with somewhat of a leisurely camp breakfast. Only 73 miles today, so Riders took their time. I had a sense that the temperature was going to climb though, so I didn't linger too much and left a bit after 7. Had a hill or two on the way out of town, but then the grade evened out. Once outside of Pierre, the landscape was tabletop-flat, all the way to Miller. I passed fields and fields of corn, wheat, and sunflowers (though not in bloom). Ranches, and pasture land. For miles and miles.
Our first water stop was at the 21 mile mark, in Blunt. The crew had set up a table with cupcakes and M&M's in honor of Janet and Chad's birthdays. I enjoyed a bite, and then headed back out to the prairie. Rode through the towns of Harrold and Holabird, and stopped off in Highmore.
There, the sandwich truck was set up. Made my PB&J, but packed it. Walked over to a small white building - the Frosty Freeze - and was the first customer of the day. Ordered a hamburger and a small root beer. Also asked the young guy behind the take-out window if he would pack my camelbak with ice and then fill it with water. He was intrigued with the whole operation but did a great job. His fill-up lasted me the next 25 miles in the heat.
After enjoyed my meal, I hopped by on the bike and continued on toward Miller. It was indeed getting hotter - and my feet were starting to toast. I stopped a couple of times where I found some shade and squirted water from my water bottles into my shoes. Not as nice as a cold, gurgling stream - but it helped.

Today's route didn't have much in the way of "roadside attractions". Nor was Miller touted as a destination where we would want to see/do lots of things. That made it tempting to take it easy and just stroll along. However, when the temperature rises - you just want to BE THERE. Regardless if THERE is a town with a population of 150. You want to be off your bike, and in the shade - ideally with a cold drink. I was glad that today's destination was getting closer by the minute.

Once I reached Miller, I rode down 5th Avenue per the cue sheet. Ah, a school. With an open door. But a glance at the artwork on a hallway mural suggested that I was standing inside the Elementary school. I had a hunch that the high school might be on the same street but further away from the main drag. As I rode farther down the street, I was met by the driver of a pick-up who simply said, in a friendly tone, "Follow me". I did so, and we met up at the very end of 5th, in the parking lot of the high school. My guide? Jerry, the principal of the school. He in turn introduced me to Renee, the custodian. What a welcoming committee! They pointed out an ice machine, large computer lab, and even a washer/dryer that we could use. Riders could sleep outside - across the street on the athletic field, or inside the building. Just sitting inside the school for the afternoon was a treat: shade, and cool air.
Once all Riders were in, we strolled downtown to Taylor's Restaurant and Lounge for dinner. Many toasts to both Janet and Chad. And Janet walked on her hands for us.

On the prairie, you can see power poles stretch for miles and miles. They seem to never end. Seeing them disappear into the distance, reminds me of a childhood amusement. I used to stand in my parent's dressing room and open the mirrored doors so that they faced one another. I would then stand between them and gingerly look to my right or my left and see...infinite images of Elizabeth Anne. She seemed to stretch from here to ....well, who knows? And who could guess that 45 years later that I would be thinking of that as I ride a bike across the United States.

Day 22 - July 14th - Kadoka to Pierre

2008-07-15T12:36:00.001-07:00

Loaded up the truck by 6 and headed back to the H&H Restaurant for eggs, homemade biscuits (3 please - and and do you have any butter?), juice, fruit and "coffee". You could tell it was going to be a fairly warm day. Rollers for much of the first 18 miles or so, right along that I-90 service road. Little-to-no traffic made it nice, along with early morning cool air.
Today's routing was quite simple: 18 miles east, 40 miles north, east again for 38 or so. Stopped in at the designated lunch-prep stop and made a sandwich. Rode out of town with Tony (and with him for most of the rest of the day) Both of us commented that we felt an increase in humidity as we climbed the little hill out of Midland. Hmmm. Perhaps this town is the dividing line between arid and humid (summer) weather.
Early on in the 38 mile segment, we stopped to eat our PB&J sandwiches at the Oasis gas station in Hayes. Did our best to find some shade - any shade, and supplemented our lunch with items from the Oasis. As we ate, we watched a John Deere machine cart about 12 round bales of hay up the road. In short order, the driver and his machine rolled into the station to fuel up. We chatted with him to better understand some of the things we had been seeing. He told us that round or rectangular, the bundles of hay are called bales. The round ones weigh about 1000 pounds each. Yes, indeed they grow sunflowers in the area. Mostly for seed. Sunflowers grown for oil require more moisture than this area can support. He was very friendly and laid-back. Tony and I could have asked him lots of other questions, but wanted to finish the ride to get out of the heat. More rollers ahead. The miles and high temps brought on a good case of Hot Feet for me. And there was no gurgling stream in sight to end my misery. I resorted to squirting warm water from my spare water bottle directly into my shoes. That helped for a bit.
Tony blazed ahead of me around mile 80 or so. But I met back up with him, and Steve, in Pierre near the entrance to the park along the Missouri river. When I finally reached the gear truck, I was very glad to drink down a bottle of ice water and pour another one on my shoes. Ahhhh.

Set up camp and took a shower. Barb, Jim, Diana, Rosie, Janet, PattiC and I walked down to the business district (which looked a little worn) and had a good dinner at a Chinese restaurant - Welcome House. Went to Walgreen's and bought bug spray - as the mosquitoes are increasing in number. I feel that we have turned a corner and will now be regularly facing bug combat. And I need to be armed.
Transients in the park made it a dicey place to camp, but we made it work by taking turns having Riders present around the tents and (locked) bikes.
Oh, and once we crossed the river, we needed to move our watches ahead by one hour. What a time in my life to lose an hour of sleep.

Bales of hay litter the hillsides in this region. Sometimes it looks as though they've been blown around the landscape, sitting in random spots. Once in awhile, you'll see an orderly row of them. And from time to time, there will be some collections of hay that might have started out all bundled, but their shape is now more loosely defined. Bunched together, they almost look like gigantic wads of dough, rising, ready to be baked: fresh loaves of bread.

Day 21 - July 13th - Rapid City to Kadoka

2008-07-15T12:35:00.001-07:00

After packing, David and I met up with the other Riders for breakfast at the School of Mines dining hall. He took photos of the truck being loaded, groups at breakfast, and of me getting ready for the day's route. We said our goodbyes, and he drove off to the airport to return to Seattle while we straddled our bikes and headed east. A long-distance day (102 miles) under blue skies.

We had gentle winds, often in our favor for the first 30 miles or so. I noticed a change in the scenery from days past. The hills were more tawny than green. There were occasional clusters of leaf-less trees. Small sunflowers grew up between the cracks in the asphalt along the side of the road. And there were cacti mixed in with other scrubby-looking groundcovers next to the shoulder. Saw some brown and white cows - a change from the solid black ones up until now. Seemingly uninhabited expanse. Covered about 20 miles at a lickety-split pace with Jim. A good challenge. We didn't encounter a town of any sort until we reached Interior, near the 71 mile mark. At a small, meekly-lit grocery, I bought and quickly devoured a bag of chips, a lemonade and a couple of single-serving cups of applesauce (? - it just sounded good). I then rode on by myself through this small SE corner segment of Badlands National Park. The scenery was magnificent. It was very challenging to convey the scale of the rock and stone formations and colors with the digital camera.
Just a few miles after exiting the Park, the route turned east, tracking a service road parallel to I-90. The road led right to Kadoka (after about 10 miles of rollers). The campsite was at the city park, which included an outdoor pool - already busy with local kids. Showers were in a small building next to the pool.
I helped unload the truck with Brendon and Daniel, and then set up my tent and showered. Some mosquitoes were in the air, as if to remind us of things to come. Around 6 or so, we trooped over to the H&H Restaurant, for a buffet dinner. What a wonderful meal! Brisket, fried chicken, potatoes, a trips to the salad bar. I enhanced my meal with a cold beer, and finished the whole thing with a slice of homemade blueberry pie with ice cream. Waddled back to camp to settle in for the night. Wow - in the tent, and no sound of trains! What a treat.

South Dakota doesn't seem to have rumble strips. That's right. No extended lengths of terror for cyclists. What I HAVE seen are what I'd call rumble Bits. A modest attention-getter about the size of a storm drain. Just about every 10 yards or so. When David and I were in the car, I asked him to drive over one so that I could sense its impact in a car. Barely a shudder. And on the bike, not so bad. You can regain your senses so much faster on a Bit, rather than on a Strip.
I've also noticed how many creatures die on the roads. Today, I stopped to move an expired feline off of the road shoulder and into some vegetation: I felt that it getting hit once was enough. Deer, rabbits, and assorted small rodents are regular victims of fast moving vehicles. And on a bike, you notice dead birds - perhaps too small to see when you're in a car. But quite a few. I must see a dead bird every few miles. A couple of owls, but mostly really small birds.

Day 20 - July 12th - layover day in Rapid City

2008-07-15T12:34:00.001-07:00

Had a wonderful layover day with David. We had breakfast at the hotel, and then tried some coffee at a local "shoppe". The operation was way over-thought. Extensive tickets that the staff completed for every order. Two-part lids to control the flow of your sip. Fancy uniforms. It was as though they were trying to be everything that Starbucks is not, or they had never been to Starbucks. The coffee was...ok.
We then drove south, the 20 or so miles to Custer State Park where I had ridden the day before. Once in the park, we opted to take the Wildlife Loop with the hopes of a good chance of seeing some wildlife. Saw and heard lots of birds. Saw some deer. But it was late-morning, and larger animals were probably trying to stay cool elsewhere.
Jim had mentioned to me that Sylvan Lake was a very worthwhile sight so we proceeded to the there. It was ringed with cars and a small wedding was taking place at the shore. I got out to take some photos and we moved on to Hill City for a bite to eat. What a Harley mecca! Motorcycles and their leather-clad riders abound. Striding down the boardwalks, drinking beer in dark tavs, showing off their machines to others.
After a decent lunch at the Bumpin' Buffalo, we drove back to Rapid City. I did some laundry at the dorm while David rotated my bike tires. We met up with Ash and Pauline for dinner at the Firehouse Brew Pub on Main Street. Delicious and plentiful brisket, and dessert at well. I figured that I'd burn it off the next day. We gave Ash and Pauline a ride back to the School and Mines, and returned to the hotel.
What a memorable layover day. Time with David, and going places in a car! Didn't notice any inclines, the direction of the wind, or care about the outside temperature. Seemed strange at first, but I got used to it.

Day 19 - July 11th - Newcastle to Rapid City

2008-07-12T19:47:00.000-07:00

Up promptly to get set for a pre-layover day ride of just 80 miles. The seniors at the Center prepared a substantial hot breakfast for us, complete with homemade cinnamon rolls. We then loaded the truck, received our cue sheets and dove into the route. Not surprisingly, we were halted mid-downtown by...a long, steady moving coal train.
The winds were in our favor and I was making good time for the initial 10 miles or so. I rode in the vicinity of Chuck and Tony. But at mile 11, Tony stopped and asked if I had seen the Welcome to South Dakota sign. I had not. We turned around, into a stiff headwind (no wonder we were making such good time) and rode back to take photos at The Sign. So, a few bonus miles for the day. T
The rest of the ride to Custer (mile 40 or so) went by quickly. There were some climbs into Black Hills National Park, and some great descents. I was glad for that there was so little traffic on the road and several of the narrow, winding stretches had little-or-no shoulder.
Once I had made a sandwich at the Check Point in Custer, I looked for a cafe for a 2nd breakfast. The first one - including that gooey roll - was long gone. Tony, Jim, Douglas, Joe and I found seats at the Bakery Cafe and refueled on pancakes and such. It was a very good idea, given the work ahead.
Just a few miles outside of town, we entered Custer State Park. A beautiful setting with nice winding roads. Traffic not too bad, given that it was the beginning of a summer weekend. Didn't see much wildlife - only some tame burros. Nick (our mechanic) had a chance to ride today. At one point he caught up with us to report that there were some very strong winds on Highway 79. We had a foreshadowing experienced, being buffeted by side and headwinds once we left the protection provided by the hills within the park. Those 9 miles didn't quite drive home the point as much as standing in the blasts when we reached Hwy 79. The wind was blowing at 30 mph with gusts up to 40. Many of us had never ridden in such conditions. It was formidable, and a true test of perseverance.
All of us made it to the School of Mines and Tech that afternoon, our wind-free home for the next 2 nights. I'm amazed that everyone made it in without incident.

David flew into town and we met up at the RC Holiday Inn just down the street from the campus. What a treat to have him here, to catch up on family and trip stories, and just be together. We ate dinner with other Riders at 6 and retired to our quiet room, enjoying some champagne from a sweet friend.

Day 18 - July 10th - Gillette to Newcastle

2008-07-12T14:54:00.000-07:00

Woke up around 5. Sauntered across the street with Chuck and Rosie to get a cup of coffee at Starbucks while the breakfast crew was setting up. Nice to think that we have only 76 miles to ride today.
Left camp a bit after 7. Worked against some headwinds most of the day. High clouds, but that didn't keep the heat from creeping up by late morning. Had a check point in the town of Upton. Made a sandwich to have on hand. On the way out of town, Rosie and I stopped at an official highway Rest Stop. There was a nice, new building with restrooms. The toilets (in the women's room) were cold stainless steel. When Barb showed up, we had to share the good news!
Usually, such a fixture would have hardly been noteworthy. And perhaps even a bit disconcerting from a hygienic standpoint. On a hot day, after sitting for hours on a bike seat? I wanted a book to take into that restroom. I wanted to sit there all day on that cool, cool, commode.
We continued on over sun-baked hill and dale. Rolled into Newcastle by early afternoon. Found the Senior Center and chose to set up my tent outside. There were numerous options on the floor inside the building. Actually, a multitude of air-conditioned rooms for various purposes - TV, pool/billiards, etc. But he breeze that had been our nemesis all day, was now a benefit: it could quickly dry a damp shower towel, soggy tent, and generally air out funky duffel bag stuff. I walked down the street to the corner store to buy a few afternoon snack items, and also stopped by the Cork and Bottle to buy some cold beer. Barb and Rosie joined me in some shade at the back of the gear truck for some light refreshments. Didn't take any time at all to finish all that box of Cheez-Its and a couple of Henry's.
The seniors served us a carbo-laden meal around 6, after which about a dozen or so Riders participated in a t-shirt swap. We had been asked to bring a trade-able shirt on the ride and it was finally in Newcastle when we had a chance to made a bid for a jersey, pair of shorts or t-shirt to fill out our meager collections. I was very happy to snag a shirt from Jim that commemorated his last training ride this past spring. It involved a series of loops near Lake Geneva just north of Chicago.
After some more time on the time-limit-free computer station in the TV room, I headed to my tent.
Little did I know of the track ahead.

Coal trains run through this region, and specifically this town, throughout the day - and soon I discovered, the night. Long, long trains of 120 cars. Loud, long blasts of the whistle (for whatever reason at 2am) with each one. I had neglected to put in my earplug when I went to bed. And the first hours of deep sleep buffered me from the noise. But by 2, when I sleep more lightly, those shrill whistles seemed close enough to be coming from behind the building. And I could almost swear that they were pounding through town at 20 minute intervals. Hard to believe that one could get used to this regular pulse of coal cars. Gives "hauling coal to Newcastle" a whole new meaning for me.

Day 17 - July 9th - Sheridan to Gillette

2008-07-12T05:38:00.000-07:00

The cacophony of commerce (rail and interstate activity) was ever-present during the previous night. Not such a great thing when you need to be up at 4:30am. Up that early due to the distance to be covered today: 112 miles. We were on the road by 6:15, a new record.

Rosie was our grand marshall and led us out of town, down through the historic district and out onto the byways of Wyoming.
Blue skies, cool morning air. Terrain similar to yesterday's. Lots of grazing land. Saw lots of leaping deer in adjacent fields.
Water stop by mile 25. Check point at the Leiterville Country Club. Here I was, expecting there to be valets ready to take our bikes from us. It was just a little run-down grocery by the side of the road. But the sign did say - Leiterville Country Club. Go figure.
Made a much-needed stop at the Spotted Horse Cafe. Sign in the window read: Spotted Horse, population: 2. The residents were inside the Cafe, one - a very sullen man behind the bar, and the other, a frazzled matron in the kitchen. The bartender reluctantly responded to requests from some local guys seated on stools at the bar. He avoided making eye-contact with any of the spandex crowd until he absolutely couldn't avoid it. His face reminded me of mug shots of low-life criminals who spent time with say, Bonnie and Clyde. No exactly Mr. Friendly.
But hey, whose to say that our lunch wouldn't be good? For eight bucks, I enjoyed a delicious homemade hamburger with fresh and hot HOMEMADE potato chips and an ice cold soda. It's too bad that the dark and dusty atmosphere of the place - hobbled further by the temperments of the entire SH population - couldn't enhance our visit. But the meal was reviving and much needed.
The remaining miles for the day were over rolling hills under a very hot sun. Almost immediately after passing the sign welcoming us to Campbell County, the road surface changed. The chip seal was now red (due to local clay or rock perhaps) and there were significant expansion joints in the road about every 10 yards. I mean significant. You almost felt as though you were taking a jolt from riding off the curb. It really marred any downhill glides as you bump - bump - bumped your way down. I'm grateful to have such solid wheels.
The last few miles into Gillette seemed to take forever. Here's the airport. Here's the sign saying City Center ahead. Another one: Gillete - 3 miles. When we I ever get THERE? Finally rolled into Lasting Legacy Park around 3:45. A long day on the bike.
We consoled ourselves with opportunities to help the local economy by visiting an ice cream trailer in the park's parking lot - great soft-serve. And checking out the Starbucks across the street!

I don't know if it occurred on this day of riding, or another. I suppose it doesn't matter. It could have happened most any time.
While you are riding along for miles and miles, trying to enjoy the scenery, you are also trying to stay in tune with the traffic and other obstacles (e.g. playful squirrels, road debris, wide-load vehicles, etc) around you. During some recent afternoon miles, I was churning along with another rider. We heard the blasts of a train whistle. Immediately, my companion moved 2 feet over to continue riding on the far shoulder of the road as though anticipating something big and dangerous directly behind us. We had a good laugh. Semi's don't give us that much warning and they are MUCH more of a direct threat.
Perhaps this only seems amusting to those of you who have been out on the road for awhile and have experienced mixed signals from weary braincells.

Day 16 - July 8th - Hardin, MT to Sheridan, WY

2008-07-10T17:56:00.000-07:00

Woke up at 5. Had camp breakfast (instant oatmeal, make-shift coffee press coffee, bagels with peanut butter and/or cream cheese, bananas). Loaded the truck.

I decided to take my time leaving this morning, to ensure that I wouldn't precede waterstops. Riders taking off first-thing, or going at a 15+mph pace stand the chance of reaching stops before the crew. In those cases, Riders are on their own to carry or procure water as needed. The distance between the Riders at the back of the string and those in front is sometimes 30 miles. Too far for the crew to be able to cover. Those in back take priority.
Temps and wind today were conducive to a 17 mph pace for many of the Riders. Given my late start and those conditions, water was not a problem. Rosie and I rode the entire route together - sharing stories about work, friends and family. It all started with "what is it that you do - when you're not riding?"

We passed rolling green hills, with hints of desert-like conditions. Came across the Welcome to Wyoming sign and had to take several photos. It's located at the base of someone's driveway. Imagine having people stop in front of your house on a regular basis to take photos of such a sign.

At one point on the route, there was a marking on the road from the crew: Dogs. Hmmm. But where?
The cautionary clue was on the pavement, on one side of some railroad tracks. A train (an increasingly common part of our landscape) was passing by. Once it had gone, we hopped over the tracks, warily, wondering where the dogs were in wait. We closely ascended a short, gently climb, took a few more turns, and rode through a small commercial area. Time to take a right. Dogs. Out in the road. Looking warily at us. One starting barking, which of course alerted other dogs. As they came out of their yards, the avenue took on the appearance of a challenge course. And sounded like a kennel at feeding time. There were about 5 or 6 of us, and as many of them. We proceeded slowly with some deliberation, and spaced ourselves out. I picked up one of my water bottles and had its spout open in case I needed to try the ol' water deterrent. The canines continued to bark, and we continued our careful course through their neighborhood. All parted ways peacefully without incident. Whew. Happy to have had the warning.

Reached our destination of a KOA campground on the outskirts of Sheridan, by early afternoon. Wow, what a de-luxe camping spot. Nice bathrooms and showers, laundry facilities, a little camp store, and an ice cream social at 7pm - $1 for a bowl. Let's sign up for more KOA's.
After setting up our tents, Rosie and I rode into town to find the library. We had to dodge a bit of construction work, but found the building facing a serene park. Went inside to find the public computers. The hour limit was a bit restricting but gave us a chance to make some blog and photo headway. It's hard to keep things current when computers are a sometimes kind of thing.
As there was still time before dinner to fit in a free-form meal, we returned to Main Street and asked about sandwich places or cafes. Had a very reviving late, late, lunch at Java Moon Cafe. Returned to camp in time for a pizza delivery dinner. Took advantage of the opportunity to wash some riding clothes, and had to sample some of the ice cream while my shorts were tossing in the dryer.

We had a group meeting to discuss timing for tomorrow's ride: our longest distance so far - 112 miles. With some hesitation, we agreed to rise at 4:30am and leave the campsite by 6. Time to turn in.

Day 15 - July 7th - Billings to Hardin

2008-07-10T16:44:00.000-07:00

Up at 5 or so to pack and take bike and bags to the front desk. Picked up cue sheets in the lobby at 6 and proceeded to the Student Union for breakfast. Most Riders were in a relaxed mood in the wake of a rest day, and with the knowledge that we had only 56 miles to travel today.

Winds and temps were in our favor. Wound our way out of Billings and onto 87 East. Bit of an extended climb out of town - but beautiful scenery. Rolling hills, somewhat green but yellow-tinged with wild mustard. Rode with Dewayne, Jim, Patti and Bob. Tailwinds nearly the entire route. At one point, I noticed that Jim and Dewayne had stopped - right in the middle of the road. As I approached, expecting to learn of a bike problem, I could see that they were focused on something in the road: a sunning rattlesnake. It was about 3 feet in length and motionless. Jim, being a middle-school science teacher, could confirm for us that the snake was just "warming up". We kept our distance and took photos.
Further on the ride, we encountered a truck driver whose trailer had detached (when he swerved, trying to avoid an oncoming car). He was in need of a cell phone. Bob to the rescue! The driver was able to reach a friend and get some help. Glad to know that we can help out once in a while.

Arrived in Hardin before 11. Set up camp adjacent to the school football field. I rode around town, found a Dairy Queen and enjoyed some ice cream. Asked for directions to the local library, which I found. Unfortunately, they maintain a 40 minute limit per user per day. Kinda tight, but made use of of it. In the meantime, Bob had asked around town for someone to ferry some Riders to the Little Big Horn battle site. Soon enough, Bart (a willing and chatty, older local guy) showed up with his car. He gladly drove groups of 3-4 of us out to the site, about 15 miles away. I went - though the afternoon was hot - and had a pleasant time wandering around the battle site. Returned to camp and finagled another session at the library before dinner.
Beyond Basil drove out from Billings to cater another delicious dinner. The evening wound down quietly and we slipped into our respective abodes for the night.

Bart was talking to me about his work - short-haul driving, truckloads of coal from a local mine to a refinery. He does this at night. Six round-trips, approximately 350 miles per shift. He mentioned the hazards of driving on unlit roads in free-range areas. I asked him about fencing. He said that in this part of Montana, people put up fences to keep animals OUT, not in. If you don't have a known problem with predators, why use any fencing?

Today's ride was quick, scenic, and thoroughly enjoyable. As I roll along under such conditions, I wonder if I slow down. It's tempting to whiz down a hill, or hitch your wagon to a fine tailwind and test your maximum speed. I can't imagine when I'll be riding through here again. But then, look - there are some friends up ahead. I should catch them.
Moving at the pace of a cyclist, it's easy to become complacent about the view. Another mountain range. Yet another photo-worthy rock formation or shed in a sunlit field. It reminds me of trips to museums and facing the challenge of viewing "one more masterpiece". If only you could parcel out the experience so that you could give each painting, or section of the route, its rightful attention.

Day 14 - July 6th - layover day in Billings

2008-07-10T16:26:00.000-07:00

So nice to have a rest day. No riding to do at all. Regardless, woke up early as is my new habit.

Diana, Janet and I walked down 27th to City Brew so that I could get some coffee (and try out a competitor), and then proceeded further downtown to Perkins. After breakfast, I continued on my own into downtown to see if I could identify a spot for dinner, check with the Y, and see if there was a bookstore open.

The holiday weekend, in combination with the standard Sunday closings, made for a very quiet city.
Many places were shuttered. I walked down to Montana Avenue - which had an "old town" feeling, and then stepped into the Crowne Plaza hotel. Spoke with the employees at the adjoining Starbucks store, and asked some questions of people at the hotel's front desk. If you act as though you are a guest, they treat you like one! They gave me a map and directed me to some bookstores. All were closed. But the Y was open. I spoke with a very friendly woman at the front desk - Jonile. I explained that I was an out-of-towner, interested in lap swim opportunities. After she learned that I was part of a bike group "just passing through", she gave me 4 day passes - enough to share with other Riders who like to swim.
Returned to my room to grab my suit and goggles and headed back to the Y. Had a great time in a quiet, cool, lane. What a treat! Walked down the street to discover that a new/used bookstore was now open. Found a couple of books to tide me over. Stopped at a grocery store on the way back for some lunch and other provisions.

In the late afternoon, Barb, Janet, Diana and I headed back to Montana Street to find a place to eat.
The Rex Hotel was open and we enjoyed a good meal, with cloth napkins no less. And a glass of wine. How civilized.

Also managed to get some laundry done during these excursions. So touched on most of the key points of a layover day. The only downside of our Billings stay was the lack of computer access (hence, I am posting this several days late/r).

Day 13 - July 5th - Harlowton to Billings

2008-07-10T13:51:00.000-07:00

The 4 of us left the CountrySide Inn a bit after 6am, as soon as Nick had kindly picked up our bags. Such great service! We coasted over to Wade's Drive In and Cafe for a fine breakfast. Other Riders were already there, and many more joined us. I guess that there had been a last-minute decision in camp to not make breakfast at the truck and to go instead directly to Wade's.
I had finished off some fridge treats upon rising, so didn't need much - just coffee and a cinnamon roll. The "coffee" had a peculiar taste. Starbucks Moment: one of the 4 Fundamentals of making good coffee is the water. Harlowton water tasted a bit sulphery, and/or salty. It reminded me of well water from the beach. Tastes good when it's served cold - but never really quenches your thirst. The local water made the coffee taste almost soapy. Thimbles of creme and packets of sugar were available. But I chose to just drink it... brown.

I headed out of town on my own after breakfast and glided right into a tailwind. It enabled me to cruise right along at 20+ miles per hour. The scenery was a mix of grazing land, rock formations on one side of the road, and wetlands on the other. It was fun to see red-winged blackbirds - familiar to me from the beach. The terrain became more arid and rocky as the day progressed.

Stopped at the first water stop in Ryegate - home of the Testical Festival - thankfully not in progress. Then on to Lavina, the streets of which were deserted in the hot mid-day sun. Made a sandwich at Nick's truck and got some more water. Then headed down the road. It was getting increasing hot and was a drain on my energy. Pulled over at a dusty gas station in Broadview (very appropriate name) for an ice cold apple juice from the cooler. What a good choice - fueled me in all the way to Billings. Found the dorm at Montana State and was all too happy to settle in for another rest day. After unpacking a bit, Rosie showed up and settled in as well.

Our room - way up on the 7th floor - offered a nice view of the Rimrock (a local landmark). Laundry facilities were just down the hall, as were showers. And there was even a sink in our room. Does it get any better than this? I guess it doesn't take much to excite a camping cyclist.

We enjoyed a delicious picnic dinner in the park, catered by Beyond Basil. Afterwards I took a long walk to orient myself to our section of town. I soon discovered that Billings is definitely a Car town. In both Spokane and Missoula, pedestrians seemed to rule the roost. If you so much as approached a curb, let along crosswalk, all vehicles in the immediate vicinity would come to a halt allowing you to saunter to the other side. However, in Billings, the streets were very broad - to better accommodate many, and often over-sized, vehicles. Another clue, was that I couldn't find trash recepticles on the sidewalks. No trash to throw away I guess 'cause you're always in your car or truck.

I had been told that the MSU pool was not available to us during the holiday weekend so I was compelled to scout out the Y, which had been my back-up in Spokane. Though the building was locked up, there was lots of promotional signage for Summer Camps for Kids. Will have to check back tomorrow when I have a whole day to squander.

Day 12 - July 4th - Townsend to Harlowton

2008-07-07T15:52:00.000-07:00

(Slept a bit fitfully during the night due to more thunderstorm activity. But nothing matched the 10:30 show.)

We awoke to partly cloudy skies and the air seemed a bit humid - as if to keep us in line: we can put on another show for you at the drop of a hat.

Broke camp quickly. Had breakfast at the truck and headed out of town. The first 10 miles or so were very discouraging. I think that it was simply a combination of just having had breakfast, a bit of a headwind, and it being the first miles of the day. The road undulated a bit, with no big hills. All the same, the going was slow. Knowing that I had 90+ miles ahead, I was wondering how I would ever get them done at this rate of 9 or so miles an hour.

With a sigh of relief, I came to the base of our morning climb: an 11 mile, very gentle ascent through Deep Creek Canyon. What a lush and beautiful segment of the day's route! As it was only 8am or so, traffic was very light to non-existent. The road wound up the canyon in very close proximity to fast moving stream (The Creek I suppose). The rock canyon walls were not excessively tall, but you still felt contained - almost embraced during this journey past trees, vines, small pasture-like areas, and the ever-present water. I pulled over to try to photograph a wonderful cabin with a red metal roof that was perched on a rock foundation right next to the stream. A little bridge enabled you to cross over the water to reach the house - one side of which was concealed by a wild rose bush. Had to curse the limitations of a camera lens (and operator, for that matter).

Upon reaching the top of the climb, the canyon opened up to some beautiful meadows, and revealed a canopy of blue sky. There were some horses grazing to my right. What a wonderful, wonderful spot. And yet, how different the experience would have been with strong winds, or rain, or heavy traffic, or swarms of bugs, and while we're at it, a rumble strip.

Mark had a check point set up at the summit. Several Riders clustered there to fill up water bottles and munch on fresh cherries and packaged cookies. The descent was protracted somewhat by a few miles of gentle rollers. The rollers were fine - but always had me wondering when I'd be topping off the last one, ready to cruise down into the ensuing valley. I finally reached the apex and was treated by an expansive view toward White Sulpher Springs. Meadows in front, mountain peaks to the left, and the town out a bit toward the right - 8-10 miles away. The descent was a dream of an easy grade - I didn't use my brakes for several minutes and yet didn't register more than 25 miles an hour. The view was wide open allowing me to see where it bottomed out.

During this stretch, I determined that when climbing, I prefer to feel a bit hemmed in. Don't show me the top. It might appear insurmountable. And when descending, I really like to have the whole region within view so that I can determine how/when to brake, and how much momentum I can safely snatch from the grade.

A tailwind took me quickly into White Sulpher Springs. The town was preparing for a July 4th parade of course, but I had time to slip into Dori's cafe, slide onto a stool at the counter and order up some breakfast. Tony and Chuck joined me as soon as my coffee cup had been filled. We appreciated the break - time to get a good meal and cold water in our bottles before sinking our teeth into the next 60 miles. Chuck continued on immediately after the meal. But Tony and I decided to stop at the Big Ride check point on our way out of town to make and take a sandwich to have on hand. The temperature had risen. The oasis of enchanting creek and canyon shade were no longer present. This was a stretch of hot, rolling hills, with marginal road surface. Though we had started off with what we though was plenty of water, the heat took its toll. We had to stop at Two Dot - a small one-horse community - where Tony gingerly entered the bar (the only place in town) and procured cold water. A can of soda didn't hurt the cause either.

We returned to the highway and rolled along, searching the horizon for anything we thought could be Harlowton. "That must be it!" I said, as I pointed to a section of trees and buildings in the distance. Tony reminded me that we still had 12 miles to go. "Oh, but the horizon can be deceiving" I replied with hope and a parched throat. We went through this dismal exercise 3 times before finally entering not a mirage, but the real Harlowton. We pulled into the camp site area - adjacent to the rodeo grounds. I was so happy to lay on some cool grass in the shade. My feet were relieved to be off the pedals. From across the dusty parking lot, I heard the rodeo announcer calling for volunteer teams for the wild cow milking contest. He really had to plead with the crowd to get a few members of the audience to partake.As the show was near its end, it wasn't worth it to buy a grandstand ticket. I was content to lie on the cool grass and pretend to be listening to a summertime radio show.

Barb suggested that we escape the heat and the anticipated rain of fireworks in the evening by going to town to find a motel room. Sounded like a great plan. We took the last available room at the CountrySide Inn and were immediately treated to air conditioned comfort. A trip to the local grocery store was the icing on the cake: our room had a small fridge to contain little treats long denied. OJ, V-8, beer, cottage cheese, and even some tapioca pudding on a whim. Diana and Janet soon joined us. The room was a bit crowded with all 4 of us, our bags and bikes. But the amenities made up for it.
Dinner in town at a local restaurant, followed by journal updates and a wonderful, deep sleep.

Place holder

2008-07-07T12:30:00.000-07:00

Know that I'd love to post more - I have 3 more entries ready - but have reached my Hardin time limit. Hope to find a computer tomorrow.

Big Rider #49

Day 11 - July 3rd - Avon to Townsend

2008-07-07T11:56:00.000-07:00

(There was no internet access in Billings at Montana State due to the July 4th holiday weekend. Much of the campus was shuttered, and many downtown businesses were closed. I have a time limit of 40 minutes on this terminal at the Hardin library and will do the best I can to catch up. Perhaps Sheridan will have a library that I can use tomorrow).

In Avon, woke up in the middle of the night to hear a chorus of coyotes. It was as thought they were trying to sing a round. Then all was quiet once again. Went right back to sleep, which was nice:I needed the rest. At dawn, the Avon Cafe staff pulled through and dropped off a couple pans of oversized cinnamon rolls for us to enjoy for breakfast along with our basics. What a nice embellishment!

Started off the morning by riding alongside Janet for a bit. This woman knows her birds. She can tell you that what you just heard is from a red-winged blackbird, and if it was its "song" or its "call". We talked about the marshbirds as well as bluebird houses that are sometimes attached to fence posts. Janet also told me that at home, on Whidbey Island, when she finds a dead bird on the road, if it is not too damaged, she will bag it and send it to a friend who in turn sends bird specimens to the Smithsonian for study!

I moved on a bit from my bird lesson and focused on the climb ahead. The route would take us up and over MacDonald Pass - reaching an elevation of over 6300' and positioning us near the Continental Divide. The 4 mile long climb was not too bad (merely a PORTION of Orondo Grade for those of you who have ridden RedSpoke). The view at the top was great but the sun very bright and glaring. It was a challenge to take a photo of the summit sign. If the air had not been so thin, perhaps I would have had the wisdom to simply go to the shoulder of the opposite lane and take the photo of the sign from there. Maybe next time, I'll be as smart as a chicken and simply...cross the road.

Cruised down the other side. Nice descent into Helena. The air was hazy though, and the town very spread out. I found our checkpoint, but didn't see any good spots for a 2nd breakfast. So I motored on through. A few miles beyond there were notices for East Helena. I pulled off the road to investigate. A very scrappy town, East Helena. I slowly rode down Main Street. The only soul visible was a tough looking woman with more art on her body than I have on my walls at home. I asked her if she could recommend a place for breakfast. She gestured to the left and said "the food in here is pretty good". "Any other spots around?" "Nope, not really". Well, Smith's Place it was. The eggs and toast were fine, and coffee thin, and waitress - who must have been all of 18 - called everyone "hon". I had forgotten to take off my sunglasses. But Smith's was the kind of place where several of the customers had 'em on. So I just let it be.

The meal sustained me through the balance of the route, which took us to Townsend, another scrappy town. We set up camp at the local school. It was blazing hot all afternoon and we sought shade as best we could. Found out there was a library attached to the school and that we could use their computers! (No time limit either). I managed to post a couple of entries - and enjoyed doing so in air-conditioned comfort. Returning to my tent outside was not a big draw. Daniel made dinner for us that night. How he could stand cooking over a couple of woks in that heat is a mystery to me. We settled in for what we thought would be a quiet evening. But the weather had other plans. A couple of colliding thunderstorms decided to join forces and created a dynamic show. At 10:30, Daniel shouted out that we needed to evacuate our tents as the lightening strikes were dangerously close. We huddled together under the overhang at the school, watching our little nylon homes shudder in the wind. Between lightening and an occasional check with a flashlight, we saw the tents sway to the left, then to the right. It was as though they were following an aerobic instructor. And all the while the rain poured down.
A couple of the tents completely collapsed and one almost laid completely down - bowing submissively to the storm. The clouds moved on, the rain relaxed to a drizzle and we returned to our respective spots. I was so relieved that my little REI half-dome stayed completely staked, and everything inside was dry. (Thank you Perry, Kathie, and Claire for being such good instructors on tent set-up. I had guyed out the sides prior to the storm's approach and feel like that made a big difference).

Several Riders had to move to inside the school for the balance of the night. They dragged in their wet belongings - which miraculously dried by morning. All of us hope that that our Townsend electric storm is the most dramatic evening we have on this journey.

Day 10 - July 2nd - Missoula to Avon

2008-07-03T14:03:00.000-07:00

Stumbled over to the U of M Student Center at 6:30 for breakfast. What a wonderful spread of choices! I kept discovering new nooks: look, here's all kinds of toast! look over here, there's cereal! and would you look at that, a machine that dispenses Folger's coffee! It was helpful to have an ice dispenser and water tap to fill up my Camebak. Our route today will be just a hair short of a century. Though it is not supposed to be hot, it will be important to have cold drinking water on hand (or back, as the case may be).

The route led us out of town in short order. The sky was cloudy and air was very cool. What a nice change from hot-feet days. The landscape was lush and somewhat forested. The hills adjacent to State Route 200 were a soft green, with gentle contours. Almost looked like a painting. I soon met up with Douglas and Tony. Douglas dropped back at some point and we continued on. At around the 23 mile mark I noticed a large carved upright bear holding a street sign. I moved in closer to get a photo. The light wasn't very good but I wanted to take the shot anyway. When I returned to the highway, Tony alerted me that my rear tire looked soft. Indeed. First Flat (but no fall). By the time we had the tube changed, Mark had driven up in a support vehicle and decided that our corner was just the spot for the PB&J table/check point. Soon numerous other Riders joined us there, ambled up to the table to make a sandwich (to carry for later in the day), eat some snacks, and talk about how the day was unfolding. After cleaning our hands and making our sandwiches, Tony and I got back on our steads and headed out.

At mile 38, we stopped at Stoney's Kwik Stop where Riders had pulled over to buy non PB&J sandwiches, enjoy a hot beverage and troll the snack aisles. I ate a chicken salad sandwich ("I made that just today" said the stern (or stoney?)-faced cashier) and drank down a cold Snapple lemonade. Time to go. Miles ahead. Eventually reached Avon (mile 95) around 2:30. It was imperative to stop at the Avon Cafe (about the only establishment in town) to sample their renown pie. I scanned the list of options and decided to start the experience with a hamburger. THEN pie. Peach. The waitress was enjoying the steady stream of Riders who came in - especially the younger guys. It's not everyday that you have a herd of strapping young men in spandex stumbled in the door. After lunch (or was this 2nd lunch, or 1st dinner? I've lost track), we continued the remaining 3 miles to the Echo Valley Church Camp. Set up tents (or had the option to sleep in camper-warn A-frames). The Avon Cafe staff drove over and cooked us dinner, and of course brought pie for dessert. Apple, blueberry, peach, cherry, Boston Creme, Coconut Cream, and Chocolate Cream. What a great meal! Riders could hardy get up and make it back to their tents. It was cool by dusk, setting the tone for a good night's sleep. Only a coyote concert (they were making an attempt at singing a round) at 2am interrupted my rest.

And now a word about bugs.
When you are working your way up a hill, you can sometimes be gasping for air. Seems to be an invitation for a bug to fly right into your mouth. Your initial reaction might be a half-gasp of surprise, but this only invites the guest in further. Should you take on water, rinse and spit? Cough and blow? Be brave and swallow? And all the while you are trying to make it up the hill, not run over glass, and god forbid, stay away from the rumble strip. This biking stuff is hard!

Day 9 - July 1st - layover day in Missoula

2008-07-03T13:48:00.000-07:00

Layover days (as well as any time that you have from your arrival the night before) go by very quickly.
All it takes is: doing some laundry; locating a computer to update your blog and check email; eat; clean off your bike; wander around the community; more computer time; eat some ice cream; locate the local Starbucks or other well-known coffee house and test out their offerings; find a spot for dinner; check on your laundry, and ping! It's time to pack up for a swath of riding days.

I had a nice time in Missoula - my first time there. Visited the Adventure Cycling office with Rosie, Diana and Barb. Wonderful hospitality there. (For AC members - use of a computer, access to cold drinks and frozen ice cream bars). As is their custom, we had a Polaroid photo take of us, noting our names and length of journey. It was then posted on their visitor bulletin board, one of about 50 taken during the past few weeks.
We left AC to wander on down Higgins Avenue, across the river, to Missoula Bike Works, Rockin' Rudy's (a store similar to Archie McPhee's - a Seattle destination), and Big Dipper - for ice cream. I also managed to fit in a swim at the U of M pool. What a treat! My thighs were a bit achy afterwards, but I know that a few laps are good to include in layover days. The water feels soooo nice.
Rosie helped me upload some photos later in the afternoon. So you have her to thank for any visuals posted for the past few days.
Though it was sunny during most of the day, there were some very thunderstorm-type clouds that formed by evening. Nice to be sleeping inside. Need to get ready for a near-century tomorrow.

Day 8 - June 30th - Thompson Falls to Missoula

2008-07-01T16:01:00.000-07:00

Once again, the forecast was for a very hot day. And the slated mileage: 101 - a "century" - our first of eight on the full route.

Some of the Riders left Thompson Falls High School before 6am just to get a jump on the anticipated heat. But I knew that I needed some breakfast - which was being offered at Minnie's again, in town. After loading my gear, I outpaced the mosquitoes - also up early I guess - and rode into town. Brendon, Tony and I were the first ones to be seated and enjoyed copious calories (mine from 3 slices of French Toast). Other Riders slowly filed in. But Tony and I wanted to get started and so we left once our plates were clean.

The ride out of town was brisk as was the morning air. We made good time to Plains (23 mile mark) - checked in at the rest stop and also discovered eight Riders at the town's (only?) restaurant, enjoying a well-deserved breakfast. They had left early and basically ridden on vapors up to this point.

Around the bend, Tony and I enjoyed some sections with good tailwinds and the temperature was still ok. I practiced my skills at drafting a bit - though my definition of what will be passing us in the way of traffic could use some refinement. I would call out "car back" only to have a semi whiz by. And sometimes the scenery was a complete distraction to checking my mirror and I would miss the call altogether. Tony didn't comment. I'm hoping he was just pleased to see an old dog trying out new tricks.

I had developed a definite need for some real food by 10:30. At around that time we were passing through a small community (Arlee). I had just about given up hope of seeing anything that would pass for a restaurant when I spied a tattered sign. It was a bit weathered, to the point where you are skeptical about the posted promises. Was the place still standing? I could hardly make out what they had to offer. But look ahead - it's real, and it's open! The Windmill Village restaurant was indeed open and quite a find. We ordered up sandwiches and grabbed ice-cold bottles of tea from the fridge. There was seating outside - in the shade - on the deck where we could sit, eat, drink and contemplate the 5-mile climb ahead. Just to be sure, I scarfed down a homemade huckleberry muffin after lunch to make sure that I had sufficient fuel in the tank. Other Riders rolled in and we gladly recommended the place.

Prior to reaching the base of the climb, I sensed the old familiar need for a foot soak. As I rode on, I kept listening - when the traffic subsided - for moving water. Eureka! A rushing stream! Though its source was unknown (and I didn't intend to imbide), it provided great relief to hot soles. I was able to sit on the corrugated pipe and just dangle my feet in the rush of water. It was icy cold, and the movement almost simulated a gentle massage. The effects of this 3 minute cool-down lasted me up the climb (long but very gradual) and nearly all the way into Missoula. As long as I can find a moving water solution around the 60 mile mark, I think that I can make it across the country.

The dorm room on the U of M campus was a welcome sight. Once again, looking forward to a rest day. It's good to take a break.

Day 7 - June 29th - Sandpoint, ID to Thompson Falls, MT

2008-07-01T05:47:00.000-07:00

Given a forecast for temps into the high 90's, we made a point to load the truck before breakfast. The meal was a somewhat quiet and sombre affair given the early hour and the thought of the heat ahead. With cue sheets distributed, we took on the day.

I started out of town with Bob. Within the first few miles, we noticed some crazy squirrels up ahead.
(I've quickly learned that you need to be constantly moving your view back and forth between the 2 feet in front of you and the 10 yards ahead. Immediate and future. Immediate and future. Spare yourself surprises.) Well, there were several squirrels running across the road, but maybe 5-6 others in a lather on the pole to my right. The bunch of them decided to meet their friends on the other side - as a collective - right when I was riding by. I needed to slow down to nearly a stop and neglected to give Bob any warning. Bumper bike time! Forturnately, we are stable and determined riders and neither of us fell. And the squirrels all enjoyed an adrenaline spike I'm sure.

We had been told that this particular segment of the ride was especially scenic. The route did not disappoint. The only challenge was the lack of light in some nooks, where I could see a beautiful scene but not quite capture it inside my digital camera. And the scale is impossible to convey. The hillsides and lakes are massive. You end up just trying to capture just a corner of the fabric and having to try to explain the rest. We watched for moose, and other wildlife along these first 30 miles or so. The air was still and if you made the effort to stop and just listen, it was entrancing. I was very aware of being just a visitor passing through this beautiful landscape that is home to so many creatures and plants.

My feet once again felt hot at around mile 60 or so. And the heat of the day was dragging me down. My Camelbak was nearly empty - though I had a couple of bottles of water and/or gatoraid on my bike. But they were both the temperature of a hot shower. Mmmmmm. I was riding by myself at this point. I pulled over at a roadside "deli" that sat on the edge of some farmland. Someone was on a Deere out in the back 40. I looked in vain around the building for a faucet. Saw hoses, but they seemed to be hooked up to a novel apparatus for operation. One that would require my deep thought and some experimentation. As I hadn't gotten an ok to play around with them from the owner, I pushed on. Fortuitously (sp?), a steep hillside came into view on my right. Surely a stream would be happily gurgling from its base. Surely. Then I noticed a sign stating Fishing Pier ahead. And lo and behold, my focus on the hillside had kept me from looking left to see The River! Oh, such a fine body of cold, fast-flowing water! I pulled over to the left to see if I could somehow submerge my burning soles. There was a lonely set of steps leading to the water. But better yet, several other Riders were a bit further down within the fishing area, sitting on a partially submerged viewing platform. I wearily made my way to their spot and was rewarded with a soak not only for my feet but also my backside. I simply sat in the chilly 4-5 inches of water and sighed. Daniel, Reuben and Tony saw my face brighten immediatly. "Look, she smiled!".

The balance of miles into town were fine, now that I had cooled off. Stopped for some ice cream (variation on the DQ Blizzard concept) at Little Bear. Then rolled on down through town to the high school. We had been granted full run of the place - a big treat for tired campers - and people claimed spots in several classrooms, the gym and computer lab. The latter was open with functional terminals. Does it get any better than this?
Dinner was in town at Minnie's. We consumed platters of food, but needed to maintain enough focus to ride the mile or so back to the high school. Dusk brought out the mosquitoes, but we were safely inside a cool building.

Day 6 - June 28th - Spokane to Sandpoint, ID

2008-06-30T19:45:00.001-07:00

It was a challenge to leave the comforts of the dorm and hit the road again.
But today, we would complete our first state, moving across the state lines between Washington and Idaho. Time to get a move on.

After a quick trip to Starbucks, and breakfast at the Cog (Student Center), we loaded up the truck and grabbed our cue sheets. Everyone peeled out in short order.
After a few miles of twists and turns, the route led us to Hwy 2. I started this segment on my own, and ended up riding most of the day by myself. The morning air was cool, and the sky nearly cloudless. The route wound through Chatteroy and Riverside, eventually leading me to Newport, and just in time for their annual Rodeo Parade! The sidewalks on Main Street were filled with families, jockeying for the best viewing places. Of course the early birds had brought folding chairs and were proud of their positions in the rare shady spots.
I locked up my bike and clicked (wearing my bike shoes) down the street to survey my options. I chanced upon a kitchenware store that also offered fresh brewed coffee (in a press pot no less) and homemade cinnamon rolls. Can't beat that. I bought one of each and sat for a spell, talking with the baker/coffee maker proprietor. As soon as I heard the sound of police car sirens, I knew that the parade would be starting and I took off to finagle a spot. Sure enough, here came the police cars, following by rodeo royalty on horses, prominent local business people and politicians, more horses, the inevitable clean-up crew, a local cub scout pack, large people on/in small cars, a tropical- themed float, and several fire trucks of various vintages. At that point, I felt confident that I had sufficient parade memories and decided to move on.

The route took me over gently undulating hills, along forested hillsides. The hot air brought out the smell of the pines and scrubby plants. Heat radiated from the pavement. I passed a remote street sign: Lotawater Lane. And as the miles accummulated, so did the heat in my feet. Slowly at first, and eventually a full-out burning sensation across the widest part of each foot. It felt as though I was standing on a red-hot metal grate. Flames licked my toes. The wind fanned the blaze. Ouch! As I approached the final couple of miles into Sandpoint, I spied a young boy washing a car. Ah-ha! I rode over to his side and asked him if he could do me a big favor: spray my feet. Shoes, socks and all. He was as happy to oblige as I was to receive. What a relief! In my new-found state of civility, I bought a raspberry soda from his mom - who was operating a nearby espresso/italian soda stand. I cruised down the final miles with soaking shoes and a cup of ice in my hand. The effects of the heat were retreating.

We would be camping for the night at Sandpoint High School. After designating a spot under the pines, next to Barb, the two of us went into town to find something to eat. We found the highly-recommended 2nd Avenue Pizza restaurant just as it was opening for the afternoon/evening. A small pie and a cold beer revived us.

It was then time to return to our site for the night, check in with other Riders about their experiences, set up camp, eat dinner and prepare for another hot day. The heat had taken its toll: camp settled down by dusk.

Day 5 - June 27th - layover day in Spokane

2008-06-30T18:59:00.000-07:00

A day off the bike! Hard to imagine. It was rejuvinating to have a day to think about things other than the daily cue sheet (map), making a peanut butter & jelly sandwich, and trying to stay on course.

Once up, I joined a group of hungry Riders looking for a cafe for breakfast. We found a spot on busy Division Street. It offered a buffet - a highly popular prompt for this ravenous bunch. Afterwards, several Riders strode off to REI in search of replacement parts, forgotten items, etc. This Big Ride traditional pilgrimage has a sense of finality: this is the last outpost until...Madison?...where you can get your tent mended (if the winds at Vantage were too fierce), replace your handlebars or seat, or load up on electrolyte tablets. After today, we head out into the "wilderness".

I had wanted to go swimming and found out that we didn't have access to the Zags pool, so I walked downtown and went swimming at the Y. The simple purchase of a Day Pass provided some soothing relief to overused muscles. The lanes were waiting for me (hardly anyone in the pool), the water felt great, and it was so nice to do something familiar yet in a new place.

During the afternoon, Joe helped me to upload some photos onto earlier posts. Perhaps he can help me tomorrow with some others that I've taken during the past few days. As the day came to a close, clusters of Riders gathered on the sidewalk outside the dorm, cleaning bikes, lubing chains, and just shooting the breeze.

In the evening, several of us walked down the street to a restaurant that Darrell had recommended.

The group seems to be coming together.

Day 4 - June 26th - Odessa to Spokane

2008-06-27T16:34:00.000-07:00

Up around 5. I guess that this hour will be my standard rising time. I've found that it's beneficial to spend a few minutes doing some yoga-type stretches before leaving the tent. Perhaps it's been coincidental, but my aches and twinges have been minimal so far. It could be because of the yoga poses, or the fistful of supplements that my friend Molly (a naturopath in Seattle) recommended, or maybe I've just been lucky.

Trips to the bathroom (a new location every day!), repacking my clothing bag, packing up my tent and getting bike bags ready is my pre-breakfast routine. Whatever will I do when I return to the work-a-day world?

Daniel cautioned us during breakfast to slow down and enjoy the ride, to not press on in the manner of race horses. It was hard to follow his advice this morning as there was a generous tailwind in our midst. I did some thoughtful miles on my own, listened to the birds, and enjoyed the cool morning air and desert scents. Met up with Tony and Chuck by chance in Harrington. Very quiet town at the early hour of 8am or so. We did meet a couple of local residents who were sitting outside the Masonic Lodge, having a smoke break. When they learned that we were participating in a ride for the Lung Association, promoting clean air (and smoking cessation) we had a good laugh. They allowed us to use their bathroom, and we left them to their task of preparing lunch for local seniors.
The winds took us quickly in to Davenport. Within the first few blocks of Main Street, we spied a B&B cafe - "open to the public". The three of us settled ourselves at a table on the front porch and ordered up the house special of Strawberry pancakes. The view allowed us to watch local traffic and to shout out to other Riders. Many of them followed our lead and found seats on the porch. How nice it is to feel that we can do our part of help local economies and fuels our "tanks" at the same time.

The miles from Spokane were broken up by a shady rest stop in Reardan, and a brief detour off of Hwy 2 due to a mobile home fire. By the time we were re-routed onto the highway, we could look to our left to see the smouldering shell of the home. A fast blaze for sure.

I persuaded Chuck and Tony to make a stop on the way into Spokane at the Airway Heights Espresso stand. It is one that the RedSpoke riders frequent every year. It would have been hard for me to ride past and not order a drink. If any members of the RedSpoke family are reading this, know that I have given the stand fair warning of your arrival on a sunny Sunday, mid-July.

Followed the routing into town and located our designated dorm on the Gonzaga campus. Whew. What a good feeling to bring my bike to a shady space, toss my bags on the floor and gaze at 4 walls and a roof. No wrestling with tent poles and stakes tonight! A shower and chance to do laundry made for a satisfying evening. Doesn't take much when you've winnowed your world down to 2 wheels and a couple of duffle bags. Looking forward to a good night's sleep and seeing when I wake up in the absence of zipper alarms.

Day 3 - June 25th - Easton to Odessa

2008-06-27T10:33:00.000-07:00

The winds in the Gorge kept tugging at our fabric homes for most of the night. I was familiar with this local trait after my stays at Lincoln Rock campground on the RedSpoke ride. Lincoln Rock is approximately 75 miles north of Vantage but the landscape and weather patterns felt the same. It usually dies down around 3am - becoming uncommonly still.

We clusterd once again at Blustery's, this time for breakfast, and then slowly made our way - as one big cycling community - across the bridge spanning the river. Once on the other side, we were joined by early morning vehicular traffic, making the steady climb up the hillside. The view was a tremendous distraction. Especially with the early morning light, shining over our shoulders, intensifying the contours of the stone walls on Blustery's side of the Columbia. Look over, look down and ahead. Look over, look down and ahead.

I had established a good climbing pace up the hill and ended up riding witha couple of the Big Ride's greyhounds: Chuck and Tony. We stuck together to Ephrata, where Tony and I stopped at a cafe. Chuck's legs, however, told him to continue. The latte (Tully's, but acceptable) and fresh scone, were reviving. Tony and I then galloped on to Odessa. The scenery was "scrubby", with a sameness that I'm sure that locals define in more exact and varied terms. We pulled into Odessa shortly after noon. Main street seemed to be the laser-focus of the sun. Hot and dry sidewalks and streets. Nearly deserted. We were told of a good local cafe a few blocks away from the school grounds where we were camping that night. The cafe was cool, shady, and very homey. The waitress didn't seem to mind that I ate my packed PB&J sandwich while mulling over lunch items on the menu. Tried a chicken sandwich and my first stab at raspberry-lemon pie. Once is just fine.

The afternoon was spent setting up camp, learning how to operate the showers, and settling in. With those basics completed, several of us sat on the grassy slope, sipping beer while evaluating the tent selection and assembly operations of others. What a change from a workday!
After dinner in the cafeteria, we had some free time to mingle or read, make phone calls or listen to music.Then the PB&J station was opened up for 20 minutes. Time to make a sandwich, lick the jelly off your fingers, and get some shut-eye.

Day 2 - June 24th - Easton to Vantage

2008-06-27T10:06:00.000-07:00

Around 5am or so, tent zipper alarms went off in succession. Riders crawled out of tents, made trips to the bath house, slipped into clean sets of spandex, and packed up their nomad abodes. The breakfast crew had already fired up large pots of water making press pot coffee possible, as well as oatmeal. We stood or sat, still groggy from a night of interupted sleep. Many Riders commented on the constant flow (and roar) of truck traffic. Hard to pretend it's just the lull of ocean waves.

After getting the gear truck loaded, we rode off to join those fine elephants of commerce. But happily, we were only on I-90 for a few miles. Side roads took us into Cle Elum. Less traffic, placid scenery, and thankfully, all of the farm dogs were still slumbering. Shortly outside of Cle Elum, we glided onto SR-10. This was a beautiful stretch - made even more so by still winds and cool temps. We edged up some gentle hills, and stopped to take photos.
The air seemed especially clear, the views sharp. It reminded me of an eye exam. At some point, the doctor slides in those lenses that make everything look so crisp. You want to shout: Yes, yes! This is how I want to see everything. Make me some of these!
We continued on into Ellensburg, and stopped for a 2nd breakfast. I was reminded that we are slowly moving out of coffee country as I poured myself another cup of umbrella juice from the thermal carafe. This will be an adjustment. Sigh.

After finishing our platters of food, we got on our steel ponies and rode through town. Darrell, Bob and I slowly meandered past the Central Washington campus area and headed out of town. There was a very gradual, steady climb in afternoon heat up to a wind farm ridge. We were rewarded with a very long (13 mile) descent. It got to be a bit monotonous going down for so long. Bob humored me by agreeing to stop at the Ginko Petrified Forest so that I could have a look around. "Forest" doesn't come to mind as you stand on this shadeless, sage-filled, hot hillside, peering into fenced pits of petrified wood.
We soon skedadled out of there and on to our campsite in Vantage. The afternoon was spent getting accustomed to the gusty winds, seeking shady napping spots, and gazing at the scenery. Hard to ignore the 5-mile hill just across the Columbia. Hmmm. A breakfast burner for sure. All of us ate dinner at Blustery's Drive-In. After re-securing tent stakes, it was time to sleep.

Day 1 - June 23rd - Seattle to Easton

2008-06-27T09:27:00.000-07:00

Finally. The beginning of the adventure. How will this dream unfold?

Kobi was a brave and kind soul, rising at 5:30am to make me a plate of buttermilk pancakes and some strong coffee. What a thoughtful send-off! It fueled me for miles, allowing me to focus on the path ahead.
David and the boys had conducted an undercover project during the weekend prior, assembling trail mix bags for each Rider, complete with a bike quote and well wishes to everyone. David brough them to the start and gladly thrust them into the hands of each Rider Some were startled to be receiving a gift before even getting out of the park!

By 7am, most of the Riders had assembled in the small park space at the UW. Daniel (our Ride leader) explained some basics - how to get out of town, etc. - and a few other ALA people made statements, noting our fundraising accomplishments. After the speeches concluded, in clusters of 3 or 4, we rolled out of the park, along the Burke-Gilman trail, heading north.
As this was a section that I know quite well from local training efforts, I carefully passed some of the Riders who were taking in the scenery. The route, out to Marymoor Park was familiar to me and I took it at my own pace, using a few alternate route segments. The weather was perfect - no threat of rain, and not too warm. Very little wind. I met a couple of Riders (Ash and Pauline) along the way, and others at the rest stops at Marymoor, Snoqualmie Falls, and further along the way. Douglas, Bob and I rode together for awhile on the 13 mile I-90 section, and then Bob and I continued on our own through the cool and shady Denny Creek segment. We stopped at the summit at a pancake house, as we saw a couple of bikes outside. Chuck and Tony had stopped to re-fuel. We agreed that some regular food was in order. A hot roast beef sandwich hit the spot! Paid the bill and headed out for another I-90 stretch, of 20 miles to Easton.

Riding along the highway was very challenging and sapped my concentration. There was frequent traffic of massive vehicles to my left, and hazards in my path on the shoulder. In-between: the dreaded rumble strip. A rumble, when muffled by the constitution of your car, is one thing. When experienced on a bike, it can be tortuous. The intense vibration can disorient you: what in the heck just happened here? Am I having some kind of seizure?
And then you realize that you are in the rumble zone. Just latch onto whatever wits have not been shaken out of your head and gentle steer to the right. At this point, your concerns about running into bits of re-tread, their concealed bundles of wire that hunger to infest your tires, shards of glass, various parts of belts and fasteners from trucks, and other mysteries of the shoulder, are no longer an issue. You just want to stop the vibration.
Bob and I made good time to Easton, pocketed our shower tokens from Daniel, spied the shower truck, and found camp sites that seemed acceptable. Some Rider alums came to fix us dinner that evening, and there was more mingling around the picnic tables filled with food. The roar of truck traffic did not disapate - not through dinner, early evening, and the late hours of the night. Stumbling down the path to the bath house, nearly every Rider's face showed fatigue along with a sense of relief. The first day - long awaited - was coming to an close.

Taking the rain out of Training

2008-06-08T07:00:00.000-07:00

Preparing for this ride has been a multi-dimensional experience. There's the time spent riding of course. Not at a race-pace. But lots of hours in the saddle. This year in the northwest, that has meant lots of time under cloudy or leaky skies. While the weather has been a key factor in training, and will be significant element of the event, there were things to do indoors as well.

Taking my bike to the shop (as I'm not much of a mechanic), reviewing the ALA packing list, consulting with other excursion cyclist friends for THEIR packing lists, fundraising, taking my bike to the shop, trying out various power foods and drinks, talking to co-workers about what I am preparing for (don't bother trying to explain the itch to cross this country, pedaling every mile), giving up on power foods and eating real food, considering unexpected events and how to ride through a new reality, wondering how I will blend in with the other Big Riders, looking at the list of email addresses of the other Riders and wondering who will become a close friend, exploring camping equipment stores and trying to limit my purchase of 'luxury" items (do I really need a collapsable mini card table?), putting off learning how to operate features on my cell phone (other than open, dial, close), putting my vegetable garden into a dormancy stage by covering it with straw (thanks to David), working with co-workers on my team to shift my assignments or put them on hold, explaining that no, I will not be riding home but get to fly instead, pondering my place in the 2008 Big Ride.

My Friend Robert

2008-06-05T20:16:00.001-07:00

Robert is a friend of mine with whom I work. We have gone on several rides together. (The photo above was taken at the end of the 2004 RedSpoke ride). Each of us has wanted to ride across the country and thought that 2008 would be the year that we'd be able to do it. But it's turning out that I'll ride this year - taking good notes - and Robert will jump into the fray in 2009. I'll be thinking about him as I go up hill and down, wondering what will catch HIS attention just 12 months from now.

My Family

2008-06-05T20:08:00.001-07:00

This is a recent photo of my family. My son Daniel (age 21) on the left, my husband David (dah-veed), me, and my son Kobi (age 19, nearly 20). They have been very supportive of my riding during the past many years, coming to pick me up at remote locations at the end of a ride, listening to me announce "no falls no flats" when I return home, watching me eat more than anyone else at the table (well, maybe not more than Daniel). I could not do the Big Ride without their continued support and encouragement. I will be thinking of them throughout the journey across the states.